I've got the blues

s innes

s innes

s innes

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Joined
2 Jan 2011
Posts
244
Location
edinburgh
First time doing a build log
also first time water cooling
hopefully i don't give you the blues :D

still waiting for the res tube,radiator,
cpu, gpu cooler to arrive

Parts list:

Phanteks Enthoo Primo Full Tower Case - White Edition
Gigabyte X79-UP4
Intel I7 - 4930K
64GB - Crucial Ballistix 1600 VPL Sport
Powercolor Radeon R9 290 PCS+ OC 4096MB GDDR5 PCI-Express Graphics Card
SuperFlower Leadex Platinum 1000W Fully Modular "80 Plus Platinum" Power Supply - White

Water Cooling :

EK Water Blocks EK-D5 Vario X-TOP Incl. Pump - Plexi
EK Water Blocks EK-Supremacy EVO
Aqua Computer kryographics Hawaii for Radeon R9 290X and 290 acrylic glass edition
Phobia Balancer 400 silver nickel
Phobya G-Changer 480 V.2 - Full Copper
Monsoon Hardline Acrylic Tube 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm) 4 Pack - Clear - 4x24”
Monsoon Free Center Hardline 3/8 X 1/2 (13mm) 6 Pack - Blue X2
Parvum Systems F1.0 Performance Pressure Optimised Fan - White X4
Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra 1l - Blue
Shoggy Sandwich

Modding parts :

4mm triple dense weave Braid in baby blue,Royal Blue and white
heat shrink in same colours as braid Monsoon silicone bending insert
various tools and connectors for making my own custom braid cables

delivery from OverClockers today

jLpXXAN.jpg.png
some other parts from OC
JOYXT8B.jpg.png

some of the other parts going into this build
VhkBZHg.jpg.png
 
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:D thanks guys should be fun
i've built systems before but this is my first attempt at water cooling
and a few other mods i have in mind

first up will be the case going to paint the internal with candy blue (hence the name)
i'll keep this thread up to date with how the build is progressing and ofc lessons learned in how not to do it :eek:
 
so still waiting for water cooling parts got an email that they shipped today so hopefully
these should arrive early next week as well as 20 meter of cable, the paint for the inside of the case

also hit my first snag i bought the full modular psu thinking that it would simplify the braiding process. in a way it should however not one of the connectors on the psu side used the same amount of cables/pin connections
the 6+2 pin pci-e goes in to 7
the 5 cable sata goes into 6
the 4 pin molex goes in to 5
the 8 pin mobo and 4 +4 pin mobo go into 7
and the 24 pin goes to 28 so thats one job that just got a whole lot harder
and the original wires are in two grades although thats not really a problem as i will be making my own cables just borrowing the psu plugs

so i've made a pin out list in excel. checked double and triple checked it can't afford a simple mistake here

ready to label the wires on the original cables before i remove the pins from the sockets i will only be doing this for the cables i actualy need at the moment the rest can be done if and when needed

as the psu will be behind the mobo tray the cable reduction or spliting will be done at these sockets
 
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GiraffePencils said:
Yeah. That's one of the annoying things about super flower. It's why I'm using extentions and not sleeving the real cables. I'm Lazy like that :)
Click to expand...
the original cables are pretty badly tangled at both ends before they are covered in the sleeving i think it would be even more hassle trying to individually braid those

aye had thought about using extensions as you say it easier possibaly slightly cheaper (not sure as i haven't totaled up the cost for the braid,wire,pins,crimp tool,connector blocks and of course the time it's going to take me to actually make these cables)

but i'd prefer to make my own then i can make these to the exact length needed and should hopefully make for a cleaner build
 
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some more goodies arrived in the post yesterday

8IoiqK6.jpg

i put the PSU in place in order to get a quick measurement for the 24pin cable
then as I looked at it I thought that I might have to reconsider the pump mount

so I tested out the placement and using the original 24 pin cable it would appear that there is sufficient space without moving the pump bracket

placing the mobo inside the case the 24 pin socket sits is right in the middle of the cable managment holes so i'll have to choose carefully which one i am going to use in order to keep the cable as tidy as possible.

time to start making some cable up i guess
 
s innes said:
some more goodies arrived in the post yesterday

i put the PSU in place in order to get a quick measurement for the 24pin cable
then as I looked at it I thought that I might have to reconsider the pump mount

so I tested out the placement and using the original 24 pin cable it would appear that there is sufficient space without moving the pump bracket

placing the mobo inside the case the 24 pin socket sits is right in the middle of the cable managment holes so i'll have to choose carefully which one i am going to use in order to keep the cable as tidy as possible.

time to start making some cable up i guess
Click to expand...

Just to note, on the bottom of the case where the pump bracket sits, you can move it foward an inch, there is another set of holes that can be used, this might help your situation with cables???
 
water cooling parts

jacob1995knight said:
Just to note, on the bottom of the case where the pump bracket sits, you can move it foward an inch, there is another set of holes that can be used, this might help your situation with cables???
Click to expand...

thanks but i think there will be sufficient room


the water cooling parts have been delivered

B8YWPHu.jpg.png

** Image removed. It was over 1,280 pixels wide and spoiler tags aren't allowed in Project Logs **

(sorry should have checked images size it's now fixed)
0Ziiswk.jpg

the radiator and masked up ready for paint

going to paint it and the black mesh on top of the case in white


i have also just realised the acrilc tube i bought won't be long enough to go from my desired pump location up to the rad so i'm left with a couple of choices i can join two sections of tube or buy a longer tube i managed to get 1meter lenght of tube from feabay i'd prefer to keep the joints/connections to a minimum
 
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case stripped and painting begun

had a slight problem with painting the radiator
only place i have with enough space and decent ventilation is in the attic i put the first coat on and left it for 12 hours to dry.
when turned the radiator to put a base coat on the other side and i can only assume that due to the cold conditions in the attic ( it was 7am when i tryed to put this coat on) that the original over spray hadn't quite dryed on the paper sheet i was using the result was that upon checking this second coat i found that the radiator was stuck to this paper.

so i'll need to sand it back and i might have to look at putting some temp heating in the attic to help cure the paint

4laKbbH.jpg.png

and the other parts that i am painting i've removed all the black mesh this will be blue as you can see from the over spray bottom center.

the now silver pannels are also going to be blue

the drive caddy's are also going from black to white as is the top mesh rad cover i had thought about painting this blue but i feel it would be to much i wan't to try to keep the outside of the case simple and i feel that the smaller peices will add a nice touch
 
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case panels

sorry it's been a few days since i updated this build log

so here is where i am at the moment the panels are painted just letting them cure a little before i reassemble the case

here is a picture of the outside panels with the new mesh colours
not easy to capture the blue candy colour it looks much darker in this picture

i was tempted to paint the top mesh blue as previously mentioned but looking at the completed paint job the smaller panels i feel add a nice touch and the rad filter in white should give a nice clean look
L6mtHBk.jpg.png
 
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case motherboard tray

just fitted the motherboard tray

the front

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the rear

0peB7E9.jpg

these pictures give a bit better idea of the candy colour
the panels are far from perfect but for rattle cans as good as i can get them

i may redo them in the summer when the weather is better and use the compressor for better results
 
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