Kitchen downlights

Soldato
Joined
8 Nov 2005
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Does anyone have a recommendation for good quality downlights, for use in kitchen and other areas?

I have a small list of demands...

- matte white finish
- dimmer compatible
- take a GU10 bulb (negiotable, if alternative a better option)

And some bonus points...

- can fit a diffuser to the front
- option to angle the spot if desired

Budget is whatever needs to get spent for quality.
 
EcoLed Zep series of lights.


Totally configurable, incredible quality, high CRI, lots of lumens and good with trailing edge dimmers. Forget GU10 crap .

Need to speak to the main man Guy.

Have a look on their website at projects for inspiration. Do you have a lighting plan?
 
Ooooo... they look nice. And there is a lovely adjustable one in the range as well, both look to be mains dimmable as well.

I’m going for six downlights in my kitchen, in two rows of three.

Possibly a few more in the bathrooms, but definitely nine more to run down the hallway, up the stairs and down the landing.
 
They are. Prices from them direct are better than online prices.

If you want to really push the boat out then the ZEP 6 darklight ones are the daddies. Love ours but a ZEP1 dark light is a good substitute and saves a chunk of money.

The dark lights are the ones tongo for as they recess the light engjne and diffuser back into the housing, so it eliminates all glare.

Also, have to ask why rows of lights? :p

How the lights look on the ceiling doesn't matter, you need the lights in the right spots. Do you have any pics of the room, and can you change the light positions, or are you stuck with where they are now?
 
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Totally configurable, incredible quality, high CRI, lots of lumens and good with trailing edge dimmers. Forget GU10 crap
where do you see they are high cri ?
https://www.ecoledlight.co.uk/zep1-zep-1-mini-darklight/p213 cri 80+
this is not high cri that would be 90+,

.... that is why I have B22's in my kitchen, I have not found any gu10's/downlights that are high cri ? (have discussed cri in led thread several times)
 
We used halers h2 pro's in our kitchen/dinner as a good price/performance balance and I can't fault them much nicer light than the gu10's we have elsewhere and they perform really well with a decent dimmer like the vpro. They are 80+ cri which while not earth shattering is much better than the cheap gu10's most people are using. I would happily upgrade every downlight in the house to a h2 if I could afford the out lay!
 
Also, have to ask why rows of lights? :p

How the lights look on the ceiling doesn't matter, you need the lights in the right spots. Do you have any pics of the room, and can you change the light positions, or are you stuck with where they are now?
Here's an example of what I am intending, although I would go for three sets of two, as previously mentioned.

2edGrYC.jpg


C2v8KfK.jpg


Thinking is to have two spots that would cover the hob, as the only light source there will be from the hood, two in the middle, one angled over the sink for lighting that area, then two down the end.

Dining room will have three pendants/some sort of light over the table.

Cabinet runs will have LED strips in a diffused rail underneath and possibly on top, to flood the ceiling. Not sure what to go for as yet as I'm struggling to figure out if anything would work with a standard dimmer switch or if I need a separate control unit.
 
I was talking about the ZEP6 darklight I have, with the ZEP1 range being 80+
ah ok - zep1 on downlights.co seems to be £50 so zep6 must be expensive - ecoledlights practically want to harvest yout lifes history before they will tell you
wider beam than 35 degrees would be a nice to have, since surface mount gu10's can be >100 degrees. (but they're not high cri)
so to get the recommended kitchen 80Candela would need fewer bulbs.

to flood the ceiling.
whether wider angle reduce this need ? its a bit perverse that downights & uplights are both needed - can't they produce something morer polyvalent.
 
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One of my reasons for wanting GU10 is that I want daylight-balanced bulbs, which I figured would be easier with GU10. 4000°K from the Zep lights might not work.
apart from costs whats's wrong with zep - 4000k is 4000k ?, which always gives me a better daylight than 6k, where I cannot see the gas hob flames either.
 
Firstly, I wouldn't touch those lights linked by someone else (the x40). They're GU10 fittings and it's like fitting a standalone DVD player with every tv, because it's easy and cheap. GU10s are not great and you're mixing fittings with random manufacturers bulbs.

Buy a decent enclosed integrated LED fitting and you'll have a properly IP rated and fire rated fitting with better light quality and far better life expectancy.

Here's an example of what I am intending, although I would go for three sets of two, as previously mentioned.

Thinking is to have two spots that would cover the hob, as the only light source there will be from the hood, two in the middle, one angled over the sink for lighting that area, then two down the end.

Dining room will have three pendants/some sort of light over the table.

I've just realised we were chatting in your other thread RE: cabinets and Dekton.

Grabbed your schematic and put some rough positioning for x6 spots. I personally wouldn't bother with angled fittings as they don't really add anything unless your projecting towards say art on the wall.

Positioning them like this (all learned from Guy @Ecoled) is all about getting the light where it needs to be. Rows of lights on the ceiling is what builders and sparkies do who have no concept of lighting design.

Generally:
- Stick with warm white around 3000-3500k. It's for a house, not building a morgue or operating theatre (4000-6000k lights) :p
- Spots over edges of worktop (around 600mm off wall). Lights the work area.
- Don't put spots in the middle of the room or set the above worktop ones further back, as you'll get shadows cast by your body.
- Spots 600mm off wall will also work perfectly for 300m high level wall units.
- Then carry over the 300mm off a cabinet rule from above for any full height units (like you have on the left as you look at the schematic).

g4LvjWh.jpg


Some nice pendants in the dining area would be lovely. Possibly an freestanding uplight in a corner. Gives a nice warmer effect.

Cabinet runs will have LED strips in a diffused rail underneath and possibly on top, to flood the ceiling. Not sure what to go for as yet as I'm struggling to figure out if anything would work with a standard dimmer switch or if I need a separate control unit.

Very nice, they certainly work well.

I use Highline Lighting for all my LED strips. There's a huge array of strip types, colours (obvs stick with 3000-3500K) and they come with IP rated coatings. Plus there's a selection of cheaper IP20 PSUs or better rated sealed units (smaller). You can get dimmable PSUs for these lights.

https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/gb/

Strips, IP65
https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/g...d-strip-smd2835-144w-cri80-5060440711190.html

Dimmable PSUs
https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/gb/84-mains-dimmable
Then just add some LED profile cheaply. I found some Hafele stuff on ebay cheap.

I'm also going for a large ceiling wash with strips ontop of the cabinets, just ensure your plasterer and paint finish up top notch, as uplit strips will show off imperfections.

I'll be using Highlines 14.4W/m2 strips for uplighting and currently have a 5m strip sitting against the lower web of our exposed RSJ firing upwards. It gives a good effect and nearly gives enough light (along with task lighting), to not need spots anymore. This is in a 3.5m x 6m kitchen area. With the new set of units I'll put more strips up high so might eliminate the need for spots altogether.

I'm happy to chat via trust if you like :)

ah ok - zep1 on downlights.co seems to be £50 so zep6 must be expensive - ecoledlights practically want to harvest yout lifes history before they will tell you
wider beam than 35 degrees would be a nice to have, since surface mount gu10's can be >100 degrees. (but they're not high cri)
so to get the recommended kitchen 80Candela would need fewer bulbs.

Ignore the web prices completely, if they were that much then i wouldn't have gone near them.

Need to call them up and speak to Guy @ Ecoled and just say you saw him on Pistonheads forum (He's called E36Guy on there). Then you'll get them at the realistic prices.

Like I said before, I wouldn't bother with angled spots and just grab some ZEP1 darklights as they're the same price as regular ZEP1.

I've used ZEP6 Eyeconic (angled) above some artwork in the lounge and they give a good effect, but a fixed ZEP6 darklight gives a similar effect if cited closer to the wall (around 200m) so the angle of the light just starts at the top of the picture frame.
 
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They look pretty good and are ticking a lot of boxes.

One of my reasons for wanting GU10 is that I want daylight-balanced bulbs, which I figured would be easier with GU10. 4000°K from the Zep lights might not work.

Thanks, for a kitchen definitely go for 4000k daylight and nothing else.

The ansell lights are of a good build quality and you can notice the difference when comparing to other cheap brands.

I got about 40 ansell lights and a cheap brand in the bathroom. All ansell lights are absolutely flush to the ceiling due to how good the springs are. Also they are not the lights that have clips holding them in place. They can be a nightmare when replacing bulbs.
 
Thanks, for a kitchen definitely go for 4000k daylight and nothing else.

The ansell lights are of a good build quality and you can notice the difference when comparing to other cheap brands.

I got about 40 ansell lights and a cheap brand in the bathroom. All ansell lights are absolutely flush to the ceiling due to how good the springs are. Also they are not the lights that have clips holding them in place. They can be a nightmare when replacing bulbs.

4000K should be an absolute limit as it still gives quite a piercing white light.

Honestly these look like most average GU10 type fittings, aka a bit mediocre. They are a fitting designed to fit in all manner of bulbs, rather than engineered to work in together with the light engine properly. This leads to compromises in quality, inability to design cooling and heatsinks for a specific light engine and still not being particularly cheap. Plus you have the hassle of marrying different bulbs with lower life expectancy ratings and they are not fully IP rated.

On the IP rating front, our ceiling became completely messed up due to the leak from upstairs, completely saturating the ZEP1 we have in the ceiling (around 5 in this area). As the fitting is entirely sealed the water did nothing and all work fine still.

For a quick comparison see below. Not entirely fair given the price difference, but you're comparing a cheap consumer fitting to an architectural one costing 50% more, which in the grand scheme of things for x6 lights is well worth the upgrade for a room used for many hours each day:

Ansel & Aurora Spot combo:
Output = 5W 500lm
Expectancy = 25k hrs
Warranty (bulb) = 2yr

Zep1 Darklight:
Output = 10W 1200lm
Expectancy = 50k+ hrs
Warranty (bulb) = 5yr

So you get a far superior product, with significantly higher output (also mains dimmable), sealed and fully IP/fire rated, double and liekly longer life expectancy and a long warranty.
 
apart from costs whats's wrong with zep - 4000k is 4000k ?, which always gives me a better daylight than 6k, where I cannot see the gas hob flames either.
I guess I'm used to thinking 4000k is a little yellow, but that's possibly being too literal. Having now actually checked, my Hue's at 4000k (ish) are perfect for the look of my house.

Grabbed your schematic and put some rough positioning for x6 spots. I personally wouldn't bother with angled fittings as they don't really add anything unless your projecting towards say art on the wall

Positioning them like this (all learned from Guy @Ecoled) is all about getting the light where it needs to be. Rows of lights on the ceiling is what builders and sparkies do who have no concept of lighting design.
Thanks!

Now you've mapped it all out, what you're saying makes a lot of sense. My worktops will come out 650mm from the wall, but having lights in the positions you have placed them works nicely. Only thing that bugs me is the off-line fitting near the fridge/freezer. Hmmm.

Some nice pendants in the dining area would be lovely. Possibly an freestanding uplight in a corner. Gives a nice warmer effect.
I have a myriad of options, but the Flos Glo Ball are currently winning. Or I might get a spider pendant made up, depending on how it all looks.

NB. Every room in my house (apart from the kitchen) will have 40cm light cubes dotted around, throwing nicely diffused light from Philips Hue bulbs, so ambient lighting is pretty sorted. Just ceilings, really.

Would you go spots in lounge (etc) or hang pendants?

I use Highline Lighting for all my LED strips. There's a huge array of strip types, colours (obvs stick with 3000-3500K) and they come with IP rated coatings. Plus there's a selection of cheaper IP20 PSUs or better rated sealed units (smaller). You can get dimmable PSUs for these lights.

https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/gb/

Strips, IP65
https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/g...d-strip-smd2835-144w-cri80-5060440711190.html

Dimmable PSUs
https://www.hiline-lighting.co.uk/gb/84-mains-dimmable
Ooooo... I can use one of those PSUs and have the strips mains-dimmable from a normal dimmer unit?!

I'm also going for a large ceiling wash with strips ontop of the cabinets, just ensure your plasterer and paint finish up top notch, as uplit strips will show off imperfections.

I'll be using Highlines 14.4W/m2 strips for uplighting and currently have a 5m strip sitting against the lower web of our exposed RSJ firing upwards. It gives a good effect and nearly gives enough light (along with task lighting), to not need spots anymore. This is in a 3.5m x 6m kitchen area. With the new set of units I'll put more strips up high so might eliminate the need for spots altogether.
I really want to get rid of ceiling spots, but I don't have cabinets all around the perimeter, so I don't think the wash will totally work. Might be able to do away with the two down the dining room end though.

I'm happy to chat via trust if you like :)
That's very good of you, thanks!

Like I said before, I wouldn't bother with angled spots and just grab some ZEP1 darklights as they're the same price as regular ZEP1.
Okay... explain the darklights to me. The inside is painted black so you don't get stray light bouncing around? That simple or more to it?
 
4000K should be an absolute limit as it still gives quite a piercing white light.

Honestly these look like most average GU10 type fittings, aka a bit mediocre. They are a fitting designed to fit in all manner of bulbs, rather than engineered to work in together with the light engine properly. This leads to compromises in quality, inability to design cooling and heatsinks for a specific light engine and still not being particularly cheap. Plus you have the hassle of marrying different bulbs with lower life expectancy ratings and they are not fully IP rated.

On the IP rating front, our ceiling became completely messed up due to the leak from upstairs, completely saturating the ZEP1 we have in the ceiling (around 5 in this area). As the fitting is entirely sealed the water did nothing and all work fine still.

For a quick comparison see below. Not entirely fair given the price difference, but you're comparing a cheap consumer fitting to an architectural one costing 50% more, which in the grand scheme of things for x6 lights is well worth the upgrade for a room used for many hours each day:

Ansel & Aurora Spot combo:
Output = 5W 500lm
Expectancy = 25k hrs
Warranty (bulb) = 2yr

Zep1 Darklight:
Output = 10W 1200lm
Expectancy = 50k+ hrs
Warranty (bulb) = 5yr

So you get a far superior product, with significantly higher output (also mains dimmable), sealed and fully IP/fire rated, double and liekly longer life expectancy and a long warranty.

Okay then, you've made some valid points in life expectancy and possibly warranty but IP rated I am unconvinced how much of a difference that would make in what choice I personally would go for.

But the massive standout factor is the UPFRONT COST!. Quick google suggests that a Zep1 is almost £50-70 per light!

If true, In my example I would have blown a maximum £2,800 in total JUST ON a light fitting..... That's a ludicrous amount of money on a LED light, it should be gold plated at that price.

Whereas I spent like £320 in total, plus I might have gone for longer life bulbs.

Therefore, I would still rate the Ansell being the better buy but ultimately it is up to the OP on this.
 
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