Kitchen isolator switches

NickK · 16 Dec 2018 at 20:46

We prefer MK switches due to the design and with a new kitchen build we have two single isolators (fused switch without neon) and we have two usb double gang 13A and a non-USB double gang.

The electrician has combined the remaining 16A oven, gas hob+hood and fridge into a single three gang isolator. He is pushing TLC supplies to provide but I want a matching MK design.

Looking on screwfix, MK do a grid switch that is either 3 or 4 gang into the space.
This allows a grid 20A oven switch and two 13A switches but maintain the design.

Does anyone know if isolator switches for the fixed connection requires a fuse?

The electrician has put the kitchen sockets on their own new ring and run a new line for the 16A oven both to the consumer box (he is replacing this with a metal box at the same time) so both would be on their own trips.

jpaul · 16 Dec 2018 at 21:02

NickK said:
The electrician has combined the remaining 16A oven, gas hob+hood and fridge into a single three gang isolator.

sounds a bit risky having fridge and oven isolators adjacent ... had that in a previous property .. I usually turn off oven when not being used and don't want to turn off the fridge accidentally.

NickK said:
Does anyone know if isolator switches for the fixed connection requires a fuse?

don't really know but - won't there be a single fuse in the 3gang isolator for all the devices?

NickK · 16 Dec 2018 at 21:12

jpaul said:
sounds a bit risky having fridge and oven isolators adjacent ... had that in a previous property .. I usually turn off oven when not being used and don't want to turn off the fridge accidentally.

don't really know but - won't there be a single fuse in the 3gang isolator for all the devices?

These will be wall mounted above the worktop on the other side of oven & fridge.

The previous cooker isolator (big red switch style) didn’t have a fuse for the cooker. However the isolator 3-gang would not have any fuses - I assume the ovens don’t run fuses at the point of the wall fixed connection (it would have to be a larger non-14A fuse anyway).

Searching doesn’t specify a need for fuse but an isolation switches is not so much for safety (trips and fuses) but to disconnect when not used for a period.

ZG002 · 17 Dec 2018 at 07:33

As long as the appliance is running from a plug head with sutible fuse installed and it doesn't bother you dragging them out if a fuse does blow then a grid with isolators is fine.

NickK · 17 Dec 2018 at 12:18

ZG002 said:
As long as the appliance is running from a plug head with sutible fuse installed and it doesn't bother you dragging them out if a fuse does blow then a grid with isolators is fine.

The oven will be on it’s own trip and I don’t think ovens are normally fuses behind or on the insulator.
Given the weight of the oven it’s not a simple pull out to change the fuse!

ZG002 · 17 Dec 2018 at 16:16

Manufacturers instructions will stipulate if the oven needs to be fused down or not. If it’s not on a plug head from factory then it likely won’t need to be fused down.

theone8181 · 17 Dec 2018 at 19:38

jpaul said:
sounds a bit risky having fridge and oven isolators adjacent ... had that in a previous property .. I usually turn off oven when not being used and don't want to turn off the fridge accidentally.

don't really know but - won't there be a single fuse in the 3gang isolator for all the devices?

Why turn it off when not in use?

jpaul · 17 Dec 2018 at 20:24

theone8181 said:
Why turn it off when not in use?

several hobs I've owned have dials where you might fail to set it to 12oclock off, in the final dishing up/everything done phase.
it's also quicker than having to turn off both grill switches, and, if i need it again (2nd round of flat breads) flick it on again.

... mainly just child safe and precaution against knocking knobs, if doing other things on (flat) hob top.