Klondike Gold Bundle OCing nightmare

I had a similar problem with a pre-overclocked (3770k) kit I bought from a competitor. I upped the load-line calibration to high and it solved my bsods; i was getting some vdroop apparently. Give it a try, you never know. restore defaults on motherboard, and try your OC at x45 1.28v (manual voltage, not offset). and LCC calibration high/extreme and leave everything else at stock. You can play with offset later to get lower volts at idle.

Leave all the auto overclocking crap alone, it's never stable in my experience. And I would reccomend using prime 95 to stress test over IBT. IBT cooks cpus.
 
0x124 usually suggests not enough vcore.

Does it only BSoD under load, or does it happen while it's sitting idle too? If the former, check loadline calibration as suggested above. If it's the latter, try bumping the core voltage a little (temperatures permitting).
 
kaku said:
0x124 usually suggests not enough vcore.

Does it only BSoD under load, or does it happen while it's sitting idle too? If the former, check loadline calibration as suggested above. If it's the latter, try bumping the core voltage a little (temperatures permitting).
Click to expand...

Sorry for the slow response been away racing this weekend.

The system just shuts off during Windows boot at the moment. The following quote outlines a new overclock configuration that I was sent back in July. Been testing this all afternoon and my Vcore is up to 1.370v and still can't even boot into Windows yet.

Overclockers Customer Support said:
Ai Tweaker:
Overclock Tuner - Manual
CPU Core Ratio - Sync All Cores
1-Core Ratio Limit - 44
Internal PLL Overvoltage -Auto
Memory Frequency - 1600mhz
OC Tuner - As Is
EPU Power Saving Mode - Disabled
DRAM Timing Control - Press Enter
Cas Latency - 11
Ras to Cas Delay - 11
Ras Pre Time - 11
Ras ACT Time - 32
Command Mode - 2

Secondary Timings
Read All - Auto
Press Esc

Digi Power Control - press enter
Loadline Calibration - Level 5(Ultra)
Press Esc

Extreme Over-Voltage - Disabled
CPU Voltage - Manual Mode
CPU Core Voltage Override - 1.250
CPU Cache Voltage - 1.250
SVID Control - Disabled
CPU Input Voltage - 1.900
DRam Voltage - 1.500
CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled
Click to expand...

Prior to updating the bios I was able to get into windows and fire up MSFS for a while and suffer the odd blue screen. Now I can't even get into windows with these settings. Very frustrating!
 
implosiveturnip said:
restore defaults on motherboard, and try your OC at x45 1.28v (manual voltage, not offset). and LCC calibration high/extreme and leave everything else at stock. You can play with offset later to get lower volts at idle.
Click to expand...

I loved the simplicity of this idea so I gave it a go. Unfortunately, still not getting past the Windows login screen. EDIT: I'm now going back through the process of increasing LLC but with a multiplier of 44. Managed to get to the desktop and as I glance at it everything looks normal. Let's try FSX and see what happens...

Leave all the auto overclocking crap alone, it's never stable in my experience. And I would reccomend using prime 95 to stress test over IBT. IBT cooks cpus.
Click to expand...

Yeah I've decided that stuff isn't worth a ****e. I tried the Asus 4 way tweaker job and it reckoned I could get to 4.6! It promptly **** itself on rebooting of course ;)
 
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Forget what I said... Comp seems to crash (no blue screens, just a hard off and on) seemingly at random. I continuously monitor temps when I'm in FSX and typically around 50-60C under load with max peak temps of 70-71C.

At the moment the only tweaks to my system are:

Multiplier: 41
VCore: 1.25 (Adaptive)
Vcach: 1.2 (Adaptive)
SVID: disabled
Spread spectrum: disabled

Which is what I was running last week and this seems stable. Very very frustrated at this time. Is there anything else hardware related that could be causing these issues? I'm aware that I'm not tweaking anything to do with the HDD or GPU but could these in any way be causing an issue if they're past their best? I'm certainly not getting carried away with the tweaks and have attempted to follow numerous guides.
 
Given that you said it appeared the be stable at stock, I can only guess it's a dog of a chip for overclocking.

I'd personally set everything to dead stock in the BIOS (including voltages on Auto), set the RAM timings via XMP and then bump the CPU multiplier by 1 and test each time. This should give you some idea of voltage ranges for your chip (it will likely apply too much voltage at you increase the multiplier, so I'd recommend keeping an eye on the temps). Once you've found something that appears to be stable with 'normal' use, you can start optimising the CPU voltage.
 
kaku said:
I'd personally set everything to dead stock in the BIOS (including voltages on Auto), set the RAM timings via XMP and then bump the CPU multiplier by 1 and test each time. This should give you some idea of voltage ranges for your chip (it will likely apply too much voltage at you increase the multiplier, so I'd recommend keeping an eye on the temps). Once you've found something that appears to be stable with 'normal' use, you can start optimising the CPU voltage.
Click to expand...

Ok, that's the opposite way round to what I've been trying so far so that seems like a logical suggestion. Thanks :)
 
Have you been denied any warranty support for this?

Even if you rolled back the BIOS to original and applied the overclock settings?
 
Sweeney said:
Have you been denied any warranty support for this?

Even if you rolled back the BIOS to original and applied the overclock settings?
Click to expand...

Yeah, because like a wolly I accepted a refund on my overclock. I still have warranty on the hardware though I believe. To be fair though, I'm pretty sure it's not a hardware fault because the system runs absolutely fine on completely vanilla settings. Well, I think it does anyway. It certainly never BSoD or hard resets itself.
 
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