KRK Rokit Horrible Noise!

Rowan88

Rowan88

Rowan88

Associate
Joined
2 Jun 2013
Posts
1,265
Location
Glasgow
Hi,

I have this issue with one of my KRK Rokit RP5 G2 monitors when I power it on it makes a horrible loud buzzing/vibrating noise and the speaker cone pushes out and then in, then out, then in..
I will try and upload a vid.

I then changed the fuse and now it just stays out but it makes a constant loud buzzing noise.

Does anyone know what is causing this and how much it would cost to fix?

Thanks
 
Last edited:
Hi,

Thanks for the replies..

The capacitors were not bulging and what I tried doing was swapping them from my working unit and same problem persisted so I know the capacitors were fine. I also tried swapping the whole motherboard between the two units and it narrowed down to something on the actual motherboard causing it.

I will look into maybe replacing the IC's and hopefully that fixes it.

They are well out of warranty but I just wanted to see if I could fix it with a simple part rather than paying £50+ for someone to repair when the unit itself is only worth around £110.

I checked and it is a TDA 2052. Is there anyway I can check other components to see if anything else has went.

I just noticed when I turned them on there there is no power now and the fuse blew twice. So I think I may have something shorting when I put it back together :(
 
Last edited:
I am going to go to Maplins tomorrow and pick some parts up.. I need some new fuses but apart from them, looking at this much better pic now I have the board removed, what parts look like I need to replace them and can you please tell me the names of them:



I will purchase two of the IC: http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/tda2050v-cp88v (is this the correct thing?) It says TDA2052 on the part
 
Sourcing the TDA2052 has been a nightmare. Apart from overpaying on eBay or waiting a month from Ali Express theyre are none.

I will try putting the good IC from another unit into the broken one and see if it fixes the problem. If not then I know I need to start looking at other possibilities.

Around the broken looking part I removed the IC, Capacitor and Resistor.


I dont see what else could be affected.
 
Yeah i heard KRK where made cheap.

So do you think I should just replace all capacitors on the board?

Is there a certain type from Maplin or eBay I should look for?
 
Thanks for the homework lol..

Before I overpay for the IC I will test my working on in unit.

I also ordered a multimeter to hopefully learn how to test components to see what ones are broke and not..

Ordered a pack of 4.7k 0.25w resistors which look like the correct colour band for what I removed last night..

Ordered more fuses as a backup lol..

Only part I haven't ordered yet is the capacitors.


These were the parts I removed close to the IC.
 
UPDATE:

I took the IC and Resistor from the working unit and soldered them into the faulty unit and IT WORKS!!!

So from that I can assume it is one of these two parts that is causing the issue.

I have the resistors ordered on eBay and I supose I will just need to overpay (£10) for the IC assuming its going to fix my monitors...

The only gripe I noticed is after playing for around 30secs its as if the tone starts to go a little tinny and sounds like its inside a box lol..

Now when I power it on I hear a slight humming noise.. So I am assuming that is the capacitors causing the issue, would I need to replace all of them?
 
Last edited:
Lol, I was tinkering about inside and I have got them working but its like the bottom (speaker/woofer) cuts out.

What is weird is it doesn't feel like a wire causing it its more if the PCB touches the wooden casing it crackles to come on.

Now the speaker refuses to work :'(
 
Last edited:
Think I have finally given up.. I fix one part and another goes...

Least I got a bit of enjoyment bouncing them off the ground
 
So I would just need to buy one of those boards and connect the woofer/speaker to it.. and power cable brick.. and connect to tweeter board?
 
That sounds about right.. rather than sourcing a TDA2052 is there any other chip I can look for on eBay to test two new ones out?
 
Just got my multi-meter in the post today so will give a try checking some of the components out to know which is broke and which isn't.

I also lost a bit of patience with it the other day and managed to end up breaking off some of the solder pads near the IC so I don't even know if they will work anymore and would probably make more sense buying two new boards.

So if I wanted to get both working I would just need to buy two of these?????
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HiFi-LM3886TF-Mono-68W-4Ω-Audio-Power-Amplifier-Board-AMP-50W-38W-8Ω-Assembled/172274154367?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HiFi-LM38...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Audio-LM3...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649

If I buy two of these and wait the month for delivery then is it easy enough to swap them out? And how do I know which one of the above I need?
 
Last edited:
Are these any good for you?

https://imghost.io/image/Hty0K
https://imghost.io/image/HttzM
https://imghost.io/image/HtCMW
https://imghost.io/image/Htjkg
https://imghost.io/image/Htv9q
https://imghost.io/image/HtFSd

Specs
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://www.krksys.com/manuals/rokit/rokit_manual%20REV%20E%20-%20web.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwj5quegy8LVAhXJLMAKHWDzANgQFghKMAM&usg=AFQjCNHyRZpqFvHR_wB1YqeFEdY1RlaJQA

As it stands right now I have one speaker which plays music but it sounds really low and tinny as if the woofer isn't working, and the other powers but no sound at all and makes a crackle.

I wish I knew how to test the IC's individually so I can see which ones are friend and which aren't so I can get at least one speaker working.


Ideally I would prefer to just buy two new boards and install them but I would need to get a compatible one for my speakers.
 
Last edited:
1. All the components are original and nothing has been changed.
2. Put multimeter onto 600v and middle part of board gave reading of 039 and the far right of the board gave 045.
3. The heatsink is 115x70mm and the hole points for the IC come in at 35mm and then 85mm.

I wouldn't mind replacing individual parts on the board but only if I could check each one and know if they are working..
 
Last edited:
I have tinkered with both that much I couldn't say what ones work and not. How can I test each to see??

If replacing the TDA2052s would fix the problem I would buy 4 from ebay but I need to make sure that is all I need..

As far as the wrecked solder pads I have used a small piece of wire to re trace and I think I have done it right but until I know which ones work I can't test it properly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom