Laing ddc 1t plus too powerful plus other questions

Damo667

Damo667

Damo667

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Joined
11 Mar 2014
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285
Hi guys my first post. I bought a full custom watercooling loop from ocuk it all works brilliantly no leaks but I'm using the aqua computer aqua box professional bay reservoir and the fluid being returned by the pump is so vigorous is creating white froth all through the system. A) can the laing ddc 1t plus I have installed be turned down using a fan controller ( I have tried with my aerocool v12xt I turned it down from 4500 to 2400 but it just stayed at 4500) and b) it says I can adjust the front channels on the reservoir. How do I do this? C) can I crimp the return to restrict the flow and slow it down that way?

With the fan controller I got that from ocuk in January and it worked fine. Now channel 1 the fan works and displays fine but if I connect the cpu connector for ch1 to the cpu or cpu opt fan headers on the motherboard the fan stays running but it goes to 0 rpm on the LCD. Unplug it and it goes back up to 2000rpm again. Also channel 2 shows 0 rpm but the fan connected to it runs fine.

My system:

Asus m5a99fx pro r2.0, amd fx8350 oc to 4.7ghz, 2 x asus hd7770 2gd5, 8gb corsair vengeance 1866mhz, 750w corsair cx750m psu, 128gb toshiba ssd plus 280gb seagate hdd.

Watercooling:

Laing ddc 1t plus pump with bits power acrylic top, aquabox professional bay reservoir, koolance 380-a cpu block, ek xt120 and xspc rs120 rads, 4 x corsair sp120 high performance series fans, primo chill primo flex clear tubing in 16/10, all monsoon free centre compressions in gold, mayhems uv blue coolant.

Any help appreciated. Damien
 
You can absolutely use a crimp to slow down the flow but it's not ideal. Have you looked a t simple voltage reducer cable - typically they take the 12v to 7v or 10v. Generally cheap and easily available.

the froth though indicates there is air somewhere. is the reservoir full?
 
Your pump is powered by molex. The 3pin header is just for monitoring the speed of the pump.

What I did to reduce mine was replace the ground line with a 3.3V line (easy enough with a modular PSU) to give the pumps 8.7V. Replacing the ground with 5V only gives it 7V and they need around 8V to start.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. I've got the res full when it's running yeah. There was an air bubble moving to the top of the system when I powered it off. I left it running for 24h to let it come out itself but now it's just frothy. It seems like the coolant is flowing far too quickly into the res and creating a vigorous whirlpool effect in the res churning all the coolant up.

What do you mean by changing the ground line? It does power by molex yeah with a blue 3 pin which is the one I have plugged into channel 1 on the fan controller.

I'm going to drain it completely and start again to see if I get the same result.
 
So the blue line just reports the pump revolutions per second. Plugging it into your fan controller enables nothing. The pumps power comes from the molex which is taking a 12v feed and a neutral. So it's running at 12v. If you find a 3.3v positive power lead from the power supply and feed that to the molex instead of the neutral the 12v will drop to 12-3.3 = 8.7v

If you aren't absolutely sure of how to do this do not try. You could blow up most of your computer.

Try pinching the tubing to slow it down until the froth subsides. Alternatively if the cooling is effective try not worrying about it. It doesn't really matter you know.
 
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Ok cool thank you I'm no good with modifying electrics so I'll leave that. With regards to the fan controller not registering it has fans connected showing 0 rpm but the fans are working would you say the controller is faulty?

I've adjusted the screws on the reservoir to stem the flow and make it a much wider spread accross the front glass of the res and that is better but the froth is just there so I might drain it and refill it. It is running 11deg c cooler on the cores but oddly only 3 deg c cooler at the socket. So before with the corsair hydro h60 at 4.7ghz it read 52 deg c at the cores and 64 deg at the socket using hwmonitor. Now it's at 41 deg c at the cores 61 at the socket.
 
Ragnahex said:
pinching the tubing makes me cringe with visions of a pipe being forced off somewhere
Click to expand...

This, pinching it to add restriction will also increase pressure between the pump an pinched section. Defiantly something I would avoid with a powerful pump.

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You could but a 12v-7v converter cable, however according to the product page the 1T plus pump requires 9v to start up. I think the main issue here is obviously that the pump is overpowered for your loop. For reference this is the type of pump we would normally see in a loop with a CPU block, motherboard blocks, RAM blocks, a GPU block or two and supporting radiators.

To be honest I am a bit puzzled why you were given that pump with the system you had planned when the EK PWM DDC (adjustable via a CPU header or fan controller) costs less.
 
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I don't think it's too powerful for the loop. A bit overkill, sure.

I had one running in a bay res on just a 7990 block and a 360 rad. The froth settled down after not too long, so I'd suggest that perhaps his loop isn't properly bled.
 
Thanks guys. I picked the pump myself I didn't realise it would blast the water round vigorously. Since I adjusted the screws inside the front glass on the res it is no longer creating new froth but what is in there is cycling round and round I have a photo I'll see if I can add an attachment.
 
A quick update guys. I've replaced the pump with a pwm ek version and mounted an 80mm tube res on top. I also mounted another 80mm tube res in the roof as a coolant tank. I've also just added a gtx770 which is on the stock cooler while it gets bedded in. Even so running these extra reservoirs has slowed the flow down dramatically. With the pump flat out I now have zero froth and about 5 deg c cooler cpu :).
 
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