LED Torch Review 28 led vs luxeon

Pah! You need a 40 LED torch like I've got at home. That thing is godly bright. Best thing was it only cost £10 at the time.:D That was quite a while ago from an American store. I also purchased a compact 9 LED torch that I keep in the car. Just looked on the site and with the exchange rate so favourable at the moment it only costs £1.50!! :eek:

They got a 105 LED torch for £12.50! :eek: :eek:
 
I am building a headlight for my bike, its based on 3 seoul p4 leds driven at 1 amp. Should be roughly 27 times as bright as that beam (720 lumens!!!)
 
Adam W said:
I am building a headlight for my bike, its based on 3 seoul p4 leds driven at 1 amp. Should be roughly 27 times as bright as that beam (720 lumens!!!)
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How much is that lot costing you and what are you going to run it off? :)
 
AcidHell2 said:
Nope I didn't.

Cluster led for the win then. I prefer an even beam. What's the advantages of a luxeon tourch?
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A lot lot lot more light. A properly done luxeon (though cree xr-e wins) is better than a cluster of led's. Problem is that it will have a max of 50 lumens at a guess. Get a Fenix P3D CE and you will have 160 lumens in a smaller case. That will be much better than a cluster of led's, though can't remember how good the spread is with the cree's.
 
Adam W said:
I am building a headlight for my bike, its based on 3 seoul p4 leds driven at 1 amp. Should be roughly 27 times as bright as that beam (720 lumens!!!)
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Nice! I've modded a 5D maglight to take a 65W OSRAM IRC bulb (overdriven to 120W), and it gives out over 4000 lumens! :eek:

The only downside is it only lasts 40 mins, but it can set newspaper on fire. :D

I'd love to use it on my bike, and it would be good for downhill runs or something, but useless for XC riding unless I took tons of batteries.
 
MikeHunt79 said:
Nice! I've modded a 5D maglight to take a 65W OSRAM IRC bulb (overdriven to 120W), and it gives out over 4000 lumens! :eek:

The only downside is it only lasts 40 mins, but it can set newspaper on fire. :D
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Pictures or video !!!
 
I've had a few different hong kong LED torches.

I've had the 21 LED torch and the 100 LED torch. The 21 LED is nowhere near as good as the 28 LED version.

The 100 LED however is no brighter than the 28 LED version. However it is huge compared to the 28 LED torch. The only benefit is that is lasts forever. I mean I've had it at least a year and the batteries are still ok. :p

led28vs100800ox8.jpg


led28vs100size800nt6.jpg
 
As promised....

The 120W maglite is the one on the right with flames at the bottom, 3rd from the right:
imgp0472rg9.jpg

I should have mentioned earlier I have a torch fetish. :o

I only have a point and shoot camera, and haven't figured out how to fix the exposure time or anything like that, the photo's don't really show the brightness difference properly. I'm around 2 metres away from the light in my bedroom, and I've tried to aim the torches in the same place...

3W luxeon clone from hong kong. f2.8, 1/4sec exposure time, iso200
imgp0470wp2.jpg

120W modded maglite. f2.8, 1/100sec exposure time, iso64
imgp0471wl0.jpg


It's not really a fair test, as the maglite probably uses around 50 times more power (I just added the LED light for comparison). If I could get some outdoor shots, it would really show what it could do. :D
 
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The seoul P4 light will cost roughly 90 quidby the time i have finished.

Its being run off two 7.4v 4000mah lithium polymer batterys in series, going to a luxdruve buckpuck (constant current) at 1000ma. I am using Fraen 10 degree optics, house in some copper plumbing fittings!.

just got to solder it all together now
 
SB118 said:
I saw that picture and i had to check what site i was on.... ;)
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:D
Adam W said:
The seoul P4 light will cost roughly 90 quidby the time i have finished.

Its being run off two 7.4v 4000mah lithium polymer batterys in series, going to a luxdruve buckpuck (constant current) at 1000ma. I am using Fraen 10 degree optics, house in some copper plumbing fittings!.

just got to solder it all together now
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Sounds good. Is the seoul P4 a bit like the Cree XR-E? If so, 1000ma is a fair bit and will need cooling. If you somehow had yer copper tubing up to the back of the led, it should help cool it a little. :)

Also, are yer batteries protected? You don't want then to die once they go below 6v.

Post pics when done - nothing better than DIY bike lights. I've been using torches strapped to my handlebars, but that is far from ideal.
 
So if I wanted a small decentish LED torch that took an AAA battery or two which would you recommend? The kind of thing I can slip in a pocket when camping/festivals etc.
 
Ev0 said:
So if I wanted a small decentish LED torch that took an AAA battery or two which would you recommend? The kind of thing I can slip in a pocket when camping/festivals etc.
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Fenix Digital L0D CE - Awesome torch
 
Seoul p4s are brighter than crees, i imported them from germany.

I have just gathered all the materials for my project.

List so far:

3 x 28 to 25 mm copper 'fitting reducers' (these are the light bodies.)
3 X brass plumbing compression discs (heatsinks with thermal contact to copper bodies)
1 x 1000ma buckpuck constant current device to drive LED's
3 x Seoul SSC p4 u bin 240lm LED's.
3 x Fraen narrow beam 10deg optics.
1 water proof switch.
2 x 7.4v LiPo batterys (4000mah)


dscf0822qr2.jpg


The optics fit perfectly in the copper reducers, and amazingly the brass heatsinks are snug fit on the elbow of the reduced diameter, at the perfect height for the led to sit.

dscf0826vs3.jpg



Give me a couple of weeks and i will have constructed it

The LED's will be wired in series, controlled by a 5k pot

The 'heatsinks' fit snug in the thinner section of the reducer, and will be glued in with arctic epoxy (home made out of arctic silver and heat resistant epoxy). Then the copper housing will conduct the heat away.
 
Bug One said:
The 100 LED however is no brighter than the 28 LED version.
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Presumably it lights up a much larger area though, or is it exactly the same as the 28 LED torch?
 
Adam W said:
Seoul p4s are brighter than crees, i imported them from germany.

I have just gathered all the materials for my project.

List so far:

3 x 28 to 25 mm copper 'fitting reducers' (these are the light bodies.)
3 X brass plumbing compression discs (heatsinks with thermal contact to copper bodies)
1 x 1000ma buckpuck constant current device to drive LED's
3 x Seoul SSC p4 u bin 240lm LED's.
3 x Fraen narrow beam 10deg optics.
1 water proof switch.
2 x 7.4v LiPo batterys (4000mah)


[mg]http://img400.imageshack.us/img400/7987/dscf0822qr2.jpg[/img]

The optics fit perfectly in the copper reducers, and amazingly the brass heatsinks are snug fit on the elbow of the reduced diameter, at the perfect height for the led to sit.

[mg]http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/9325/dscf0826vs3.jpg[/img]


Give me a couple of weeks and i will have constructed it

The LED's will be wired in series, controlled by a 5k pot

The 'heatsinks' fit snug in the thinner section of the reducer, and will be glued in with arctic epoxy (home made out of arctic silver and heat resistant epoxy). Then the copper housing will conduct the heat away.
Click to expand...
Very nice, I'll be keeping tabs on this. Have you thought about soldering a few copper fins on the body to help get rid of heat, or should it run nice and cool once you get moving? I guess you might just have to see how hot it gets when it's built.

Also, are reflectors avaliable in a similar size? You might find a mix of spot and flood would be better if you have a reflector instead of an optic on 1 of the LED's. Reflector lose less light as well, which is nice.

Also, how much voltage does one of those P4 LED's use at 1000mA?
 
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