Lian Li unifan SL120

Guys, I have just fitted my new build out with 2 triple fan sets of these Uni fans and am really impressed with the silent running and low overall volume when max RPM as well as the RGB and simplistic fitting. I do however find I now have a USB connection sound as if a USB pen drive is disconnecting and reconnecting happening randomly. Anything I can do to issolate the issue? I am assuming since the controller conects into a USB 2 header, there is a software glitch maybe?
 
I do however find I now have a USB connection sound as if a USB pen drive is disconnecting and reconnecting happening randomly. Anything I can do to issolate the issue? I am assuming since the controller conects into a USB 2 header, there is a software glitch maybe?
Maybe...
Which controller have you got?
 
If you go to the SysTray icon where you 'safely remove USB' hardware, does the controller come up as a removable option?
Yes it does, however you can’t actually eject it.
Message appears “Windows can’t stop your ‘HID compliant vendor-defined device’ device because a program is still using it.

I don’t want to stop it, but it does confirm the behaviour is representative of USB ejection and activation.
 
I know of similar devices that have similar issues.
From what they're saying, it's a Windows USB Driver issue. Something to do with the device not permanently running data back and forth across the USB header, so when it stops Windows thinks it has been disconnected.

I believe there's a flag somewhere (or possibly a Registry edit) with which you can tell Windows what is and isn't a removable USB device. Outside of my area, though.
This might be a useful starting point: https://social.technet.microsoft.co...-hardware-and-eject-mediaquot?forum=w7itproui
 
I know of similar devices that have similar issues.
From what they're saying, it's a Windows USB Driver issue. Something to do with the device not permanently running data back and forth across the USB header, so when it stops Windows thinks it has been disconnected.

I believe there's a flag somewhere (or possibly a Registry edit) with which you can tell Windows what is and isn't a removable USB device. Outside of my area, though.
This might be a useful starting point: https://social.technet.microsoft.co...-hardware-and-eject-mediaquot?forum=w7itproui
Thank you for the link, investigating....
 
Didnt really come up with anything definative.... Will keep huntiong for somthing that resolves the disconnect / reconnect behaviour
 
Hey all. Just got these. Is there a reason a USB header you plug into wouldn't be able to run the power. Just seems like another cable not needed if you using the USB internal header connection?
 
Just as an FYI I've got two sets of these fans setup plugged directly into an Aquacomputer OCTO controller, for both PWM and RGB. It works absolutely fine. No need to use the Lian Li controller.

Thanks, that controller & software looks great. How does it work with controlling the individual LEDs? The aquacomputer product page says each of the RGB ports can handle up to 90 argb LEDs, but as far as I know, each individual fan has 32 LEDs each? Does the software group them into larger chunks?
 
The 140mm are coming will be looking to get these for my water cooling build,how's the 120mm for rads?.
 
Thanks, that controller & software looks great. How does it work with controlling the individual LEDs? The aquacomputer product page says each of the RGB ports can handle up to 90 argb LEDs, but as far as I know, each individual fan has 32 LEDs each? Does the software group them into larger chunks?

Each fan has 32 LEDs but only 16 are controllable (the LEDS on each side mirror each other). So you can setup the rgb configuration in the aquacomputer software to see it as one long 48 LED strip if you like.
Very impressed with how well it works.
 
Each fan has 32 LEDs but only 16 are controllable (the LEDS on each side mirror each other). So you can setup the rgb configuration in the aquacomputer software to see it as one long 48 LED strip if you like.
Very impressed with how well it works.


Thanks mate, that will make it a lot easier! Octo & fans are ordered, I will get started on a build (log) soon but unfortunately delivery times right now are guesses at best.
 
Just a quick question, if you dont have a 5v RGB header on your motherboard, can you still control the rgb via the motherboard software if you plugged it into the USB header?
 
Just as an FYI I've got two sets of these fans setup plugged directly into an Aquacomputer OCTO controller, for both PWM and RGB. It works absolutely fine. No need to use the Lian Li controller.
All I needed was a couple of adapters to plug the JST plug from the RGB into a regular 3 pin. I had a couple spare from an Asus motherboard I used to have.

I am trying to setup my own build like this, do you mind sharing what adapters you used, i am having a really hard time figuring it all out. Thank you
 
I am trying to setup my own build like this, do you mind sharing what adapters you used, i am having a really hard time figuring it all out. Thank you

In the end I used the following adapter/cable from Phanteks as it allowed me to plug in my EK reservoirs into the same headers on the octo:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/phan...ed-motherboard-extension-cable-ca-09z-pt.html

I then use these two adapters to plug it into the octo:

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3829

https://shop.aquacomputer.de/product_info.php?products_id=3762
 
Guys, I have just fitted my new build out with 2 triple fan sets of these Uni fans and am really impressed with the silent running and low overall volume when max RPM as well as the RGB and simplistic fitting. I do however find I now have a USB connection sound as if a USB pen drive is disconnecting and reconnecting happening randomly. Anything I can do to issolate the issue? I am assuming since the controller conects into a USB 2 header, there is a software glitch maybe?
FYI- same thing happened to me. I found it stopped after I closed out the L-Connect software which is only needed to change the RGB settings etc. Once the settings have been made the L-Connect can be closed anyway
 
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