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Looking to upgrade the CPU only.
- Thread starter viperfx
- Start date
That's weird. Temperature is quite possible, but the multiplier shouldn't be 8.5
Speedstep weirdness with any luck, otherwise the chip must be throttling. Which it shouldn't be at that temperature. At least you're in good hands with Wayne
Speedstep weirdness with any luck, otherwise the chip must be throttling. Which it shouldn't be at that temperature. At least you're in good hands with Wayne
Ok viperfx . . . heres the deal . .
It seems your mate although well meaning and very keen has made a few rOOkie errors!
. . . the worst of them is something we cannot do much about and that is "speccing" you DDR2-800 CL6 . . . although to be fair to him perhaps he was restricted by a tight budget and had no choice . . . he also fitted the sticks in the wrong slots! 
. . . moving on . . . the Intel® Pentium® Dual-Core E5200 should operate at 2500MHz but yours "apears" to be running 32% slower processing frequency at just 1700MHz . . . this would have a large impact on any serious processor intensive tasks you have been doing such as your Fibonacci sequences and any gaming . . .
I'm not 100% sure why your chip is "underclocked" but I would conjecture either some weird BIOS bug has afflicted your machine or your pal has manually adjusted the CPU multiplier down from [x12.5] to [x8.5] to reduce the processor load temps . . . there is no way in hell your chip should be reaching 68°C full load temps at 1.7GHz "unless" you live in a badly ventilated room with no windows in Zimbabwe . . . this leads me to believe the the push-pin design on the stock Intel® heatsink fan has got the better of your mate and he has failed to attach it correctly!
What we would need to do is to get you to reboot and enter the BIOS and select [Load Optimized defaults] . . . this would correct the processor multi and get your chip running at its full speed . . . . however if the stock Intel® heatsink fan is indeed not attached correctly then getting the chip running at its correct speed will only exasperate the silly load temps you currently have!
If my deduction is correct then we cannot proceed any further until the Intel® heatsink fan is fitted correctly!
. . .
How much of a hassle would it be for you to unplug all the cables from your tower, open up the PC and inspect the heatsink? . . . there is four black pins holding it down and I believe at least one of them hasn't been engaged properly . . . you would need to deploy the thumb-of-power and push down "really" hard on each black pin in the hope one of them would sink a bit lower and emit the magic "click" sound . . . the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink with its push-pins is notoriously famous for being difficult to fit . . . the amount of pressure you need to sometimes apply to get the pins engaged is not for the failt hearted!
If this all sounds too much for you then your gonna have to invest in a 3rd party heatsink that removes the need to fart around with ye old push-pins
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2
£18.99 inc
I can tell you one thing . . . if you have been using your system with a 1.7GHz processor and at the end of this process we get the system clocked up to 3.32GHz that will be a substantial increase of 97% processing power!
. . . that will make a "tremendous" difference I can tell you . . I know for a fact your GeForce® 9800 GT will suddenly spring to life and this requirements test at canyourunit will no longer "fail" you for the the new call of duty!
What do you wanna do? . . . if your feeling up for it then you may be able to resolve this issue tonight by getting the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink fitted correctly . . . if you can't hack it then I suggested you order the heatsink above (or something else to your personal likeing) and then you can pass Go! and collect £200!
my friend did build it for me, I helped
It seems your mate although well meaning and very keen has made a few rOOkie errors!
. . . the worst of them is something we cannot do much about and that is "speccing" you DDR2-800 CL6 . . . although to be fair to him perhaps he was restricted by a tight budget and had no choice . . . he also fitted the sticks in the wrong slots! . . . moving on . . . the Intel® Pentium® Dual-Core E5200 should operate at 2500MHz but yours "apears" to be running 32% slower processing frequency at just 1700MHz . . . this would have a large impact on any serious processor intensive tasks you have been doing such as your Fibonacci sequences and any gaming . . .I'm not 100% sure why your chip is "underclocked" but I would conjecture either some weird BIOS bug has afflicted your machine or your pal has manually adjusted the CPU multiplier down from [x12.5] to [x8.5] to reduce the processor load temps . . . there is no way in hell your chip should be reaching 68°C full load temps at 1.7GHz "unless" you live in a badly ventilated room with no windows in Zimbabwe . . . this leads me to believe the the push-pin design on the stock Intel® heatsink fan has got the better of your mate and he has failed to attach it correctly!
What we would need to do is to get you to reboot and enter the BIOS and select [Load Optimized defaults] . . . this would correct the processor multi and get your chip running at its full speed . . . . however if the stock Intel® heatsink fan is indeed not attached correctly then getting the chip running at its correct speed will only exasperate the silly load temps you currently have!
If my deduction is correct then we cannot proceed any further until the Intel® heatsink fan is fitted correctly!
. . .How much of a hassle would it be for you to unplug all the cables from your tower, open up the PC and inspect the heatsink? . . . there is four black pins holding it down and I believe at least one of them hasn't been engaged properly . . . you would need to deploy the thumb-of-power and push down "really" hard on each black pin in the hope one of them would sink a bit lower and emit the magic "click" sound . . . the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink with its push-pins is notoriously famous for being difficult to fit . . . the amount of pressure you need to sometimes apply to get the pins engaged is not for the failt hearted!
If this all sounds too much for you then your gonna have to invest in a 3rd party heatsink that removes the need to fart around with ye old push-pins
Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2
£18.99 inc
I can tell you one thing . . . if you have been using your system with a 1.7GHz processor and at the end of this process we get the system clocked up to 3.32GHz that will be a substantial increase of 97% processing power!
. . . that will make a "tremendous" difference I can tell you . . I know for a fact your GeForce® 9800 GT will suddenly spring to life and this requirements test at canyourunit will no longer "fail" you for the the new call of duty! What do you wanna do? . . . if your feeling up for it then you may be able to resolve this issue tonight by getting the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink fitted correctly . . . if you can't hack it then I suggested you order the heatsink above (or something else to your personal likeing) and then you can pass Go! and collect £200!
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Wow haha. I will tell him this, see what he has to say
Ok il give my pc a reboot - poor thing its still doing the fibonacci sequence on the number 18 still working hard to get it it has been over 10 mins - Think its crased.
Il check the bios and I will see if i can muster up some courage to take a peek inside and have a look at these pesky heatsinks.
Ok il give my pc a reboot - poor thing its still doing the fibonacci sequence on the number 18 still working hard to get it
it has been over 10 mins - Think its crased.Il check the bios and I will see if i can muster up some courage to take a peek inside and have a look at these pesky heatsinks.
OP move the ram to slot 2 and 4 or 1 and 3 for dual channel capability. Both sticks should be in the same coloured slots.
Also do you have the power management option in control panel set to "Power Saving"? If you had done that the CPU would be running in power saving mode constantly regardless of load.
*EDIT* also with your budget you should be able to get a 2nd hand Q9550 E0 quite easily. But before you rush off and buy one see how far your cpu will oc first, you might not need to upgrade afterall with the speed increase.
Also do you have the power management option in control panel set to "Power Saving"? If you had done that the CPU would be running in power saving mode constantly regardless of load.
*EDIT* also with your budget you should be able to get a 2nd hand Q9550 E0 quite easily. But before you rush off and buy one see how far your cpu will oc first, you might not need to upgrade afterall with the speed increase.
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he also fitted the sticks in the wrong slots!
While your there swap the sticks into the slots like the image below!
Yeah it seems my suspicions were correct! . . . loading the BIOS defaults has reset the chips multi back to its native [12.5x] so the processing frequency is running at the full 2500MHz however the load temps are now a toasty 78°C full load! . . . the stock heatsink isn't fitted correctly!
Go back into BIOS, find the MB Intelligent Tweaker (M.I.T] page and change the CPU multi like below
- CPU Clock Ratio [9x]
Ok done!
Is there any more pictures to guide me for the heatsink. I did have a look while i was swapping the ram stock. There was a lot of dust built up on it, and the components around were quite warm. I did push it but the mobo did not feel too steady.
heres the latest screen.
Is there any more pictures to guide me for the heatsink. I did have a look while i was swapping the ram stock. There was a lot of dust built up on it, and the components around were quite warm. I did push it but the mobo did not feel too steady.
heres the latest screen.
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Im really unsure if the heatsink is in or not, because I pushed it pretty hard against the mobo and it still wouldn't click (There are two pins that seem to click into place and two that dont). I went back and did the stress test, the Core speed was 1900 and multi was x9.5 and the temp was reaching nearly 80 degrees, so im pretty sure i made it worse
Thanks for the help so far, do you think i should consider buying a new heatsink so i can overclock?
Thanks for the help so far, do you think i should consider buying a new heatsink so i can overclock?
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Caporegime
- Joined
- 18 Sep 2009
- Posts
- 30,525
- Location
- Dormanstown.
Why's it keep throttling?
And there's no way it should be that hot.
I've clocked an E5200 before.
3GHZ on the stock cooler is easy.
3.2GHZ is easy also.
And there's no way it should be that hot.
I've clocked an E5200 before.
3GHZ on the stock cooler is easy.
3.2GHZ is easy also.
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 12 Jul 2005
- Posts
- 21,673
- Location
- Aberlour, NE Scotland
That cooler can't be on right or the case has very poor airflow. The minimum temps are too high as well, 44-50 degrees. E5200's are cool running cpu's. I did enough testing on one when i did my review thread.
What case do you have?
What case do you have?
My case is the antec 300. Some screw are missing from the mobo it is quite "wobbly". I need to get that fixed first. I honestly cant fit the two push pins of the stock cooler anymore, they just dont click. Shall i try removing the mobo and doing it?
hey viperfx
It seems almost certain that the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink is not fitted correctly . . . it is an appalling design and requires an obscene amount of pressure to get attached correctly . . . in the past I've had to apply so much downwards force in an attempt to get the pins to "click" that the motherboard resembles a boomerang . . . the force is so great that once the pins are "clicked" the board remains flexed!
Having said that I have never broken or damaged a single board but the process is certainly unnerving!
To make matters more complicated it is also possible that if someone has made a real bodge-job of installing the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink one or more of the clips could have bent outwards and prevent the push-pins from ever engaging correctly . . .
So with this all in mind and assuming you are feeling brave and would like to make some progress today I think we have no choice but to carefully remove the heatsink and inspect the pins! . . . you would need to power down the PC, remove all the cables . . . place the tower on a solid worktop, disengage the 4-pin fan connector . . . then looking closely at the four black push-pins turn each pin carefully anti-clockwise and "pull" the black peg upwards . . . once this is done for all four the heatsink can be lifted straight-up
The arrows on the push-pins show the direction to turn to unlock
When you "unlock" the push-pins if the heatsink is fitted correctly it will suddenly "pop" upwards due to the pressure being released . . . if the heatsink doesn't "pop" upwards when you turn all the pegs you can be sure it wasn't fitted correctly . . .
When you lift the heatsink off the processor try not to touch/disturb the TIM (grey poo!) on the bottom . . . and I want you to carefully examine the four pegs for damage . . . the clear outer casing should not be bent or wodged at an angle and instead be pointing straight down . . . if it is bent then squeeze it back into position with your fingers . . .
In theory the push-pin design is similar to a raw-plug and screw that you use to attach something to a wall . . . the clear outer casing is like the raw plug that fills the cavity and the black pin that gets pushed down are like the screw which fills the raw-plug and forces it outwards . . .
Here is a picture of the upturned heatsink with the black pins pulled out with just the clear outer plug showing . . . this is what yours should look like when removed . .
If the pushpins are not damaged that’s good news . . . give the heatsink a good blow out . . . again try to preserve the grey-poo on the bottom as for the moment we need to re-use it . . .
With the heatsink in your hand . . twist all the black pegs clockwise and make sure they are all pulled out/upwards so that the black inner peg is not engaged in the clear outer casing . . . . then carefully plop the heatsink backdown making sure all the clear outer pegs are aimed into the four holes around the LGA775 socket . . . once the heatsink is sitting back on the processor with all the clear outer pegs sitting in the four holes give the heatsink a tiny wiggle and then holding it firmly from above push one of the black pegs downwards until you hear a "click" . . . then move to another black peg diagonally opposite and do the same . . . good firm push downwards . . . then move back across to the 3rd black peg and do the same before finally attempting to get the fourth and last black peg pushed downwards!
If the pegs are not damaged (as we checked above) then each and every black peg should "click" into position as you shove them downwards . . . you really need to use a lot of force to do this!
If this doesn't fix the overheating problem then we have no choice but to order you a 3rd party heatsink that doesn't use the Intel® LGA775 push-pin system . . . that will take several days to arrive though so hopefully if your stock heatsink is not bust and assuming you can get the stock heatsink fitted correctly there is no reason we cannot get this little project sorted today!
It seems almost certain that the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink is not fitted correctly . . . it is an appalling design and requires an obscene amount of pressure to get attached correctly . . . in the past I've had to apply so much downwards force in an attempt to get the pins to "click" that the motherboard resembles a boomerang . . . the force is so great that once the pins are "clicked" the board remains flexed!
Having said that I have never broken or damaged a single board but the process is certainly unnerving!
To make matters more complicated it is also possible that if someone has made a real bodge-job of installing the stock Intel® LGA775 heatsink one or more of the clips could have bent outwards and prevent the push-pins from ever engaging correctly . . .
So with this all in mind and assuming you are feeling brave and would like to make some progress today I think we have no choice but to carefully remove the heatsink and inspect the pins! . . . you would need to power down the PC, remove all the cables . . . place the tower on a solid worktop, disengage the 4-pin fan connector . . . then looking closely at the four black push-pins turn each pin carefully anti-clockwise and "pull" the black peg upwards . . . once this is done for all four the heatsink can be lifted straight-up
The arrows on the push-pins show the direction to turn to unlock
When you "unlock" the push-pins if the heatsink is fitted correctly it will suddenly "pop" upwards due to the pressure being released . . . if the heatsink doesn't "pop" upwards when you turn all the pegs you can be sure it wasn't fitted correctly . . .
When you lift the heatsink off the processor try not to touch/disturb the TIM (grey poo!) on the bottom . . . and I want you to carefully examine the four pegs for damage . . . the clear outer casing should not be bent or wodged at an angle and instead be pointing straight down . . . if it is bent then squeeze it back into position with your fingers . . .
In theory the push-pin design is similar to a raw-plug and screw that you use to attach something to a wall . . . the clear outer casing is like the raw plug that fills the cavity and the black pin that gets pushed down are like the screw which fills the raw-plug and forces it outwards . . .
Here is a picture of the upturned heatsink with the black pins pulled out with just the clear outer plug showing . . . this is what yours should look like when removed . .
If the pushpins are not damaged that’s good news . . . give the heatsink a good blow out . . . again try to preserve the grey-poo on the bottom as for the moment we need to re-use it . . .
With the heatsink in your hand . . twist all the black pegs clockwise and make sure they are all pulled out/upwards so that the black inner peg is not engaged in the clear outer casing . . . . then carefully plop the heatsink backdown making sure all the clear outer pegs are aimed into the four holes around the LGA775 socket . . . once the heatsink is sitting back on the processor with all the clear outer pegs sitting in the four holes give the heatsink a tiny wiggle and then holding it firmly from above push one of the black pegs downwards until you hear a "click" . . . then move to another black peg diagonally opposite and do the same . . . good firm push downwards . . . then move back across to the 3rd black peg and do the same before finally attempting to get the fourth and last black peg pushed downwards!
If the pegs are not damaged (as we checked above) then each and every black peg should "click" into position as you shove them downwards . . . you really need to use a lot of force to do this!
If this doesn't fix the overheating problem then we have no choice but to order you a 3rd party heatsink that doesn't use the Intel® LGA775 push-pin system . . . that will take several days to arrive though so hopefully if your stock heatsink is not bust and assuming you can get the stock heatsink fitted correctly there is no reason we cannot get this little project sorted today!
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Yea I did exactly this yesterday however there are two pins to the side that go in but the two pins opposite that just wont, its like the case is blocking the black pin from being pushed down onto it. I dont think I have enough force to dent a hole in a case.
I may need to buy the heatsink, honestly dont mind because it is fairly cheap and it may be a worthy investment and also so i dont break my thumbs.
The thermal paste is pretty dry and not every bit is covered, also the stock cooler in your picture is slightly different to mine - mine does not have a metal case connecting all the push pins.
I will give it one more try but honestly it feels like im trying to dent a hole in the case or something.
I may need to buy the heatsink, honestly dont mind because it is fairly cheap and it may be a worthy investment and also so i dont break my thumbs.
The thermal paste is pretty dry and not every bit is covered, also the stock cooler in your picture is slightly different to mine - mine does not have a metal case connecting all the push pins.
I will give it one more try but honestly it feels like im trying to dent a hole in the case or something.
What did you do? . . . remove the heatsink completely? . . . did you examine the clear outer casing pegs for damage
The motherboard is mounted to the case on a set of stand-offs . . . these stand-offs raise the board away from the case and create a cavity between the board and case . . . this cavity is deeper than what the pegs can reach?
Yes your heatsink is slightly different than the one in the picture (from a Q6600) but the measurements/dimensions/principle remain the same . . .
Getting the stock heatsink fitted correctly is a well known problem . . . I switched away from the push-pin system and used 3rd party heatsinks to avoid the hassle myself!
If push comes to shove you may find it helps to actually remove the whole mobo from the case . . . this will allow you to view the underside of the board and see if the little black pegs are actually poking out the back! . . .
That Arctic cooler Freezer 7 Pro (rev 2) above avoids all these hassles by using its own mounting system . . . if you don't have any joy then it may be you need to get it (or similar) 3rd party heatsink ordered!
Caporegime
- Joined
- 18 Sep 2009
- Posts
- 30,525
- Location
- Dormanstown.
You really need all 4 to ensure you've got even pressure.
I cannot push the last one in. Its just not clicking in... or moving at all. It might be stuck or something - Also its always the same hole that wont fit in.
No matter how i rotate the cooler and push the pins in, the same hole at the top wont go into place, and so wont click properly.