Mayhems Blitz Full Kit

NoNameNoNumber · 6 Mar 2019 at 11:19

I've had the same de-ionised water running around my system for a lot of years now... It's murky and my temps are getting worse and worse.

200mm tube res with 2 kill coils.
GPU block
CPU block
Motherboard block x 2
480 x 60mm rads x 2

So a lot of volume. Looking at the instructions, the kit is only good for one rad?

I was hoping to refill my rig with fresh de-ionised water, add part 1 and let it stew for a while.
Replace water with fresh and do the same with part 2 for a while then a final flush through...

Will the blitz kit work or not?

pastymuncher · 6 Mar 2019 at 13:32

Do not run part 1 through your loop. It is for radiators only and it should state this in the instructions. There is enough part 1 to do two radiators because I have used it a few times. Part 2 is what you run through the loop and there is more than enough to do your whole loop. My loop has over 10m of tubing/copper pipe.PETG tubing in it and I always had enough for the whole loop. To be honest I found it no better than simply filling the radiators with a warm water/distilled vinegar solution and flushing a few times. The blocks, reservoir and pump I strip down and clean by hand. For the baseplates of the blocks I use Cillit Bang Lime and Grime and a toothbrush before thoroughly rinsing and drying. The block tops get a wipe with a soft cloth to remove any staining, same with the res and pump. Tubing is cheap so I would just replace that, especially if using Mayhems cheap but excellent soft tubing.

NoNameNoNumber · 6 Mar 2019 at 17:43

OK so I missed the part where it said just for rads, but ok to run it through the pump and res? Primochill tubing... Will that survive?

GPU block matters not as it'll be going in the spares bin but I was hoping to run it through the XSPC Raystorm and the RIVE board blocks but I guess I'll just disassemble like you do and give it a go with her tooth brush.

Undesirable · 6 Mar 2019 at 18:08

Part 2 is for everything else!!eleventyone

Part 1 is fairly strong phosphorus acid for rads only.

Not only will it strip the coating off blocks & fittings and make a mess of tubing, but if the resulting detritus flows through your radiators then the muck will stick to them too and they'll be dirtier than they started.

pastymuncher · 6 Mar 2019 at 19:12

Part 1 is just for the radiators. DO NOT use it on anything else. Your Primochill tubing could be the reason you are having increasing temps because it leaches plasticiser and clogs the blocks up. I used to use it and had a lot of problems with it leaching. I then switched to Mayhems soft tubing and haven't had any problems since.

NoNameNoNumber · 6 Mar 2019 at 19:39

Interesting to hear on the primochill. It's all I've used in every build I've had and assumed any detritus was coming from the fact I've cheaped out on fluid.
Ok so I can blitz both rads with part 1. Manually clean the blocks and then part 2 the remaining stuff.

Sounds like a semi decent plan.

Bugbait · 7 Mar 2019 at 09:48

Agree with above, likely your tubing at fault. I used Masterkleer prior to switching to Mayhems Ultraclear and it leeched plasticer like crazy. Was all white on the inside after a few years. Mayhems on the other hand still looks clear after a year. Still just use de-ionised water and coil.

NoNameNoNumber · 7 Mar 2019 at 16:41

The Res and blocks had a slight milky slime in them. The rads have been blitzed, just waiting for them to dry out so I can get them back in the rig and proceed with Part 2.
I'm using white tubing, so nothing to discolour, still nice and supple so will leave it be.

pastymuncher · 7 Mar 2019 at 18:36

That milky slime is plasticiser from the tubing. If you don't replace the tubing it will just happen again.

NoNameNoNumber · 7 Mar 2019 at 21:13

Ok, I'll have deal with it in another 5 years time, it's all back together and circulating part 2 now.
Loathed to spend too much on this loop though, keep saying I'll upgrade the ageing x79 rig and use PETG but it's pulling it's weight just fine still.
Hate this Enthoo Primo too... Another reason I want to do a new build.

tyler_jrb · 8 Mar 2019 at 14:29

NoNameNoNumber said:
Ok, I'll have deal with it in another 5 years time, it's all back together and circulating part 2 now.
Loathed to spend too much on this loop though, keep saying I'll upgrade the ageing x79 rig and use PETG but it's pulling it's weight just fine still.
Hate this Enthoo Primo too... Another reason I want to do a new build.

The only downside with flexi is it tends to go a bit cloudy after a while. All brands I’ve used do it. But never given me any issues so I just usually replace it every 6 months or so with the coolant.

PETG is good, but it can be a pain to fit and the only leak I’ve ever had was with PETG due to stress on a fitting. I just use flexi now and it looks and works fine.

I’ve had the primo before too and yeah it’s not the best case IMO. One of the reasons I swapped to a Corsair 900D with midplate, which was far superior and a similar size.

If I had the space I’d go to a 1000D but just don’t have the room for such a large case anymore.

NoNameNoNumber · 8 Mar 2019 at 18:30

I'm using coloured tubing though and plain old deionised water. No discolouration here

The Primo has loads of functional features, just none of them seem to be useful to me, meaning it's still a messy build.

Van Diemen · 18 Mar 2019 at 17:28

Little thread hijack here.

If I clean a rad with Blitz part 1 & flush with distilled water three times would it still be necessary to to run Blitz part 2 through the entire loop?

Undesirable · 19 Mar 2019 at 07:02

Van Diemen said:
Little thread hijack here.

If I clean a rad with Blitz part 1 & flush with distilled water three times would it still be necessary to to run Blitz part 2 through the entire loop?

There's no way of knowing for sure without a PH balance tester. Part 2 is supposed to neutralize any leftover acid and you also run it for a number of hours with the pump on which is likely more thorough than simple flushing. What I think you're meant to do is flush it like you have then use part 2; or you can use your own method to ensure the acid is neutralized if you have one. Better to be safe than sorry, because if any harsh chemical is left in the loop then it could spoil the coolant and muck up your loop in one way or another.

Van Diemen · 19 Mar 2019 at 11:26

Undesirable said:
There's no way of knowing for sure without a PH balance tester. Part 2 is supposed to neutralize any leftover acid and you also run it for a number of hours with the pump on which is likely more thorough than simple flushing. What I think you're meant to do is flush it like you have then use part 2; or you can use your own method to ensure the acid is neutralized if you have one. Better to be safe than sorry, because if any harsh chemical is left in the loop then it could spoil the coolant and muck up your loop in one way or another.

Yeah, I'm also leaning towards your opinion, just going to be a pain to run part 2, drain, run distilled, drain and so on.

Plus side would be the loop would get a proper leak test.