Well, the second half of 2022 has been a write-off. I got covid in August wiped me out for a couple of weeks, and then caused lingering heart issues for a few months. Fortunately that's mostly cleared up. My back niggle that I keep in check with exercise then started playing up which meant I missed a couple more weeks. Then just started getting back into climbing regularly again and a few weeks ago got this horrible chest infection which put me in hospital...and I'm finally just clearing that off.
I've got an ice climbing trip in January, and did a session dry-tooling at Masson Lees recently to practice. (Dry-tooling is basically climbing on rock using ice axes)....it's bloody hard work! It really showed up my lack of power endurance.
I've been stuck at the V6-ish bouldering plateau for years, it seems to be where just practicing a lot becomes not enough to progress, and you need to do some targeted training, so decided to bite the bullet and get a proper customised training plan.
I ended up buying a six-week one from Neil Gresham. Got it yesterday, 40 pages of stuff! I'll start on it at the weekend.
My benchmark tests for it are :
Two-arm deadhang on beastmaker 2000 upper slot to failure : 15 secs.
One leg bent to chest front level to failure : 7 secs.
Two arm pullups to failure : 13.
I've got an ice climbing trip in January, and did a session dry-tooling at Masson Lees recently to practice. (Dry-tooling is basically climbing on rock using ice axes)....it's bloody hard work! It really showed up my lack of power endurance.
I've been stuck at the V6-ish bouldering plateau for years, it seems to be where just practicing a lot becomes not enough to progress, and you need to do some targeted training, so decided to bite the bullet and get a proper customised training plan.
I ended up buying a six-week one from Neil Gresham. Got it yesterday, 40 pages of stuff! I'll start on it at the weekend.
My benchmark tests for it are :
Two-arm deadhang on beastmaker 2000 upper slot to failure : 15 secs.
One leg bent to chest front level to failure : 7 secs.
Two arm pullups to failure : 13.