Mini arcade cabinet

Don
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
23,206
Location
Wargrave, UK
Something I've been working on for a little while. All finished now. It's a bit quick-n-dirty but does the job and looks cool.

Mj6hYBB.jpg
I had an old iCade in the loft so I thought I'd see if there was anything I could do with it. It didn't seem to work with never versions of iOS so a project was born.

WDmi4uk.jpg
I had this Toshiba laptop kicking around that had a damaged casing.

AjuP2av.jpg
Mainboard from the laptop stripped

b2jLIwY.jpg
Screen stripped from casing. It's LED so should be fairly low power and heat

iE1q3mA.jpg
USB joystick controller

XgHkDdh.jpg
Some crappy speakers that are USB powered. Should be good enough.

23okqk1.jpg
Speakers stripped.

lbbNCqc.jpg
iCade cabinet stripped

9bcS3uo.jpg
A quick test fit of the joystick controller. No issues here.

izBWQhE.jpg
I cut out some MDF panels to make the iCade enclosed. It's all open as it comes which was no good for my project.

4bNJ2Xi.jpg
Screen panel test fit. Looks good.

PZrQ9Ic.jpg
Base panel test fit. Also good.

E1XQwWA.jpg
Gave it a quick spray with some satin black.

aqOmjNW.jpg
Rear panel test fit. Also sprayed with some satin black.

TISId1T.jpg
Cut holes for a 5V fan and the "subwoofer". Also mounted a button there which will serve as the power button for the laptop. Added a USB too just in case I need to attach a keyboard.

iekhTaq.jpg
Speaker and fan mounted.

4lP0Xj3.jpg
Screen mounted on rear panel. Spot the first issue with the build...... The LED driver circuit sticks out a fair way which would put the screen to one side. Not happy with that.

XQW5R46.jpg
There we go. Now the driver circuit can sit flush.

d7fDfoi.jpg
Test fit. Yup. Looks good.

hNOJxkO.jpg
I needed access to the rear of the controller for wires etc. Hacksaw to the rescue.

uW8iFqH.jpg
Test mount of the panels and cable routing.

lQYe3ZH.jpg
I needed something to go where the iPad mount went on the original iCade. Some extra buttons seemed like a good idea. This was just a dummy fit.

VLz7GoJ.jpg
Speaker controls mounted on the front panel.

sCflaUu.jpg
Mid-range speakers mounted behind cutouts.

Xo8y0cW.jpg
Speakers mounted.

GI8yZox.jpg
Does the job.

3InR9gI.jpg
Laptop mounted.

wGMhGjj.jpg
Cabled up at the rear. All looks good.

WUrqx0H.jpg
Mounted. I drilled some holes for some additional venting. Laptop is likely to get hot.

AmwXK9t.jpg
Buttons mounted.

C1aWA4T.jpg
USB controller can go here. Plenty of space.

rkvTkXR.jpg
All plugged together.

hd0TTtt.jpg
Front panel on.

qsIb3US.jpg
I needed something to cover the sides of the screen. Some edging for laminate flooring did the trick.

XQHuXOW.jpg
There we go. Running a retro-gaming frontend.

Footnote: You may be wondering how I got the screen to display only on the bit that is above the controller. I did a very dirty hack to Ubuntu whereby I told it it only had a 768x1024 frame buffer but a 760x1366 display. This made the OS only draw the top part of the screen you can see. I'm having some issues with V-Sync which I think is being caused by this so I will have to see if I can do something else.
 
I'm using the same ones in my USB coffee table. Two of them connected to a USB hub. Seems to work just fine for 2 player games.

8500941207_364da4c23f_k.jpg
 
Stupid Question... I have Sanwa Ball tops and the buttons from my old X-Arcade. They use microswitches so i assume the differences in the version are just down to the cables? I am pretty sure they are same connector end as you have linked to. So do i need the Sanwa version or Happ etc..
 
Well, they are just switches at the end of the day so you can always just solder different connectors on them.

Hi Rilot,

My USB Kits have arrived. I have a question for you. Does it matter what wires go to what connector on the PCB? I also see you have a little ribbon from the joystick that mine doesn't have (Samwa Ball top) I assume it will just connect directly on the 4 x microswitches on joystick then they will just act like normal buttons?
 
As long as they are connected in pairs it doesn't matter as you can always re-bind. The ribbon is just an easy way to connect the joystick. You can also use discrete connectors if you wish.
 
Something I've been working on for a little while. All finished now. It's a bit quick-n-dirty but does the job and looks cool.

Mj6hYBB.jpg
I had an old iCade in the loft so I thought I'd see if there was anything I could do with it. It didn't seem to work with never versions of iOS so a project was born.

WDmi4uk.jpg
I had this Toshiba laptop kicking around that had a damaged casing.

AjuP2av.jpg
Mainboard from the laptop stripped

b2jLIwY.jpg
Screen stripped from casing. It's LED so should be fairly low power and heat

iE1q3mA.jpg
USB joystick controller

XgHkDdh.jpg
Some crappy speakers that are USB powered. Should be good enough.

23okqk1.jpg
Speakers stripped.

lbbNCqc.jpg
iCade cabinet stripped

9bcS3uo.jpg
A quick test fit of the joystick controller. No issues here.

izBWQhE.jpg
I cut out some MDF panels to make the iCade enclosed. It's all open as it comes which was no good for my project.

4bNJ2Xi.jpg
Screen panel test fit. Looks good.

PZrQ9Ic.jpg
Base panel test fit. Also good.

E1XQwWA.jpg
Gave it a quick spray with some satin black.

aqOmjNW.jpg
Rear panel test fit. Also sprayed with some satin black.

TISId1T.jpg
Cut holes for a 5V fan and the "subwoofer". Also mounted a button there which will serve as the power button for the laptop. Added a USB too just in case I need to attach a keyboard.

iekhTaq.jpg
Speaker and fan mounted.

4lP0Xj3.jpg
Screen mounted on rear panel. Spot the first issue with the build...... The LED driver circuit sticks out a fair way which would put the screen to one side. Not happy with that.

XQW5R46.jpg
There we go. Now the driver circuit can sit flush.

d7fDfoi.jpg
Test fit. Yup. Looks good.

hNOJxkO.jpg
I needed access to the rear of the controller for wires etc. Hacksaw to the rescue.

uW8iFqH.jpg
Test mount of the panels and cable routing.

lQYe3ZH.jpg
I needed something to go where the iPad mount went on the original iCade. Some extra buttons seemed like a good idea. This was just a dummy fit.

VLz7GoJ.jpg
Speaker controls mounted on the front panel.

sCflaUu.jpg
Mid-range speakers mounted behind cutouts.

Xo8y0cW.jpg
Speakers mounted.

GI8yZox.jpg
Does the job.

3InR9gI.jpg
Laptop mounted.

wGMhGjj.jpg
Cabled up at the rear. All looks good.

WUrqx0H.jpg
Mounted. I drilled some holes for some additional venting. Laptop is likely to get hot.

AmwXK9t.jpg
Buttons mounted.

C1aWA4T.jpg
USB controller can go here. Plenty of space.

rkvTkXR.jpg
All plugged together.

hd0TTtt.jpg
Front panel on.

qsIb3US.jpg
I needed something to cover the sides of the screen. Some edging for laminate flooring did the trick.

XQHuXOW.jpg
There we go. Running a retro-gaming frontend.

Footnote: You may be wondering how I got the screen to display only on the bit that is above the controller. I did a very dirty hack to Ubuntu whereby I told it it only had a 768x1024 frame buffer but a 760x1366 display. This made the OS only draw the top part of the screen you can see. I'm having some issues with V-Sync which I think is being caused by this so I will have to see if I can do something else.
That is a great job, it looks incredibly original. I think there could be a total market for such a product. Have you discussed it anywhere? Very well done.
 
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