Mini Engine Rebuild thread

Soldato
Joined
18 Oct 2002
Posts
5,367
Location
Dublin, Ireland
I don't know if this will be of any interest to the folks in here but here goes! (it's a long thread)

My girlfriend bought her first car in June 2008, a '98 Mini with Full leather interior, webasto full length sunroof, rare amaranth colour and full sportspack kit.

nearside.jpg


drivers-int.jpg


Car was fantastic until December 23rd when the engine went pop. It lost all of the oil through a huge hole in the diff casing - a replacement gearbox that was fitted had a broken diff tooth hiding in it. It then threw the diff tooth through the diff casing, lost all the oil and thus seized the engine.

So this is what faced me in disassembly:
P1090046.jpg

My ghetto garage

P1100066.jpg


SSA40041.jpg


SSA40050.jpg


SSA40051.jpg


----

So the rebuild started in fury on the 29th January (The delay was due to me going to London for New years and then being ill for 3 weeks). The Engine and head were further disassembled and this was what we had:

Piston rings were measured and found to be shot.
Oil pump was inspected and given clean bill of health.
Pistons were then cleaned - pain in the *** they were filthy.

Cylinder head:
Cyl 1:
Exhaust Valve was in a bad way - with signs of major leakage.
Inlet Valve was ok, small bit of pitty on the seat. Nothing a lapping wont fix
Cyl 2,3&4:
Exhaust valves worse than Cyl 1.
Inlet

The inlet valves also had lots of oil deposits.

Here's a pic:
From left to right:
Exhaust 4, 3, 2 (after 20 mins lapping), Inlet 2
IMG_6513edited.jpg


Here are the exhaust and Inlet valves from Cyl 2. Exhaust has had 20mins lapping, Inlet was just out of the head.
IMG_6519edited.jpg


Here are the cyl 2 ports.
IMG_6509edited.jpg

The exhaust was still not good after lapping, but Inlet required just lapping. Some strange heat marks in wall of cyl 2 below the pitted part of the seat. We decided all the exhaust valves required replacement.

----

So bring on another another delay.. I was then in an awesome car crash which helped, so the rebuild was set back even further. I don’t have many more pics, but here is what was done:
Everything cleaned
Bores Honed
Crank polished
New Big end bearings
New Main bearings
New cam followers
New piston rings
New exhaust valves
New valve stem oil seals
New Spark Plugs
New Oil Filter
New Air Filter
New Fan Belt
New alternator
All new gaskets
2 Gearbox bearings replaced
1st gear replaced
New diff housing
Engine painted
New Engine mounts
The car was then washed & the interior fully detailed with some lovely new mats.

Here are some pics:
Gearbox cleaned and repaired:
10h0q3q.jpg

Cylinder head cleaned:
atkcoj.jpg

Crank & pistons fitted:
15wxta1.jpg

Engine built up and painted:
2s1n055.jpg


Radiator seemed to leak a tiny bit of coolant at the start, but then mysteriously stopped. I found a couple of the pipes weren’t 100% secured – me rushing I imagine.

The engine literally fought us every step of the way - it was a horrible job, and incredibly frustrating. It was 2 full days and 3 full evenings to put back together and get running. The head rebuild took 20 tedious hours+ (all done by my dad) and the rest of the rebuild wasn't far behind that.

Finally on March 4th, it drove out of the garage under it’s own steam! I’ve learnt a lot from all of this. First rule – don’t rebuild MPI engines. Second rule – don’t buy high mileage MPI’s.

Mileage when replacement gearbox/new discs&pads & service: 78600
Mileage at point of blowup: 80501
Mileage after first service: 81400
 
It’s about 2000 miles since the engine went back in. She’s delighted with it. The car sounds and runs brilliantly, and she’s had 50+mpg from every tank. Much better than the 30mpg before!

A few jobs were done night before last:
2 x new 2nd hand bumpers fitted. Less dings then last ones
New 2nd hand radio fitted
New clear side repeaters fitted - they look great
Rear arch re attached
Exhaust mounts changed to stop a squeek

Managed to get some free headlights today that came with the surrounds. These will be fitted shortly.

I've also found a repair for the sunroof (it leaks a little bit) - basically, fit a drain pipe!

What needs to happen next time it's in the garage (Easter weekend):
Reset valve clearances
New fuel filter
New front subframe mounts
New engine stabiliser bushes
New tiebar bushes (and make sure the tiebars are perfectly straight)


Yes I know most of those would have been much easier to do when the engine was out, but I hate it when it’s too easy.

In the near future (before summer):
Repair sunroof
Full brake fluid change
New front knuckles & cones
New scuttle panel
2 New A-panels
Fix rust on boot floor
Give under the headlights a bit of a tidy
Full Machine Polish

Pics with no spots, these were taken before fitting the new bumpers!
nospots3.jpg


nospots2.jpg
 
Last edited:
Finally on March 4th, it drove out of the garage under it’s own steam! I’ve learnt a lot from all of this. First rule – don’t rebuild MPI engines. Second rule – don’t buy high mileage MPI’s.

To be fair, next to an old sidevalve engine the A Series has to be one of the easiest and cheapest 4 cylinder engines to strip and rebuild, but if it's the first time you've done it then it probably does seem awkward. Try rebuilding a modern DOHC engine to factory specification and you'll appreciate the simplicity and parts cost of the A Series.
 
I've done non-MPI A series engines before. I haven't rebuilt any other engines as I haven't had the necessity too. It wasn't cost and nothing was difficult - it was just frustrating - the engine bay was ridiculously cramped, the cylinder head was in bits etc.

It was incredibly cheap overall, but it could have ended up quite expensive for only 78000 miles ;)
 
Back
Top Bottom