Modding a fan controller for use within shelving

Riggy · 20 Jun 2012 at 13:26

Thanks Blackjack, but I think I'm gonna use the laptop PSU method. It's exactly what I'm looking for.

Ahh yeah, I didn't think you'd need the 5v line. Thank you VERY much Tealc, really appreciate your effort. Well roll on payday so I can get started on it. Now I've got to decide on what fans and controller I want... the one's I've wanted on Overclockers are all sold out. Bad times!

doyll · 20 Jun 2012 at 13:50

Make very sure the laptop PSU is 12v out. Many laptop PSUs are NOT 12volt. Have 3 notebooks here and none are 12v PSU. Read the spec on PSU before buying / using.

Quick search for "12 volt power supply" on that bidding site gives a good choice.

Riggy · 20 Jun 2012 at 14:41

Noted

I've got an old Dell laptop supply. I'm going to see if that outputs 12v's before I buy one.

Riggy · 21 Jun 2012 at 12:30

So I've bought a 12v 5a power supply ready for modding this weekend (Hopefully) and I've also gone for the 92mm Case fans (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-002-FD). I've managed to get 5 of them for 4.99 each on a popular auction website along with free delivery.

I'm still going to up the shelf gap (up to 150mm from 100mm) but I'm going to go for 92mm due to amount of room that'll be left at the back of the shelves for PSU's and wires from the amp. I'm also predicting that I'm going to need the 3 pin extension cables to get the fans connected up to the controller.

I think this is controller I'm going for... http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BB-000-LP&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=189

I really can't wait to get started on it! I'm going to take my shelf plans over to my local joiner on saturday.

Thanks for your input guys, really appreciate it. It's time to buy the controller!

doyll · 21 Jun 2012 at 16:56

Isn't it nice when a plan comes together. Keep us posted and pics would be nice

craarc · 21 Jun 2012 at 17:33

yer get the build progress pics up be nice to see it all

Riggy · 21 Jun 2012 at 22:45

You do deserve the pictures to be fair

When taking some sort of plans to a joiner do you include the depth of the actual wood on top the height of the gap you want for a shelf?

So for example, if I was using 15mm thick mdf, and I wanted x4 150mm gaps for the shelves...
Would I say it's a total height of 675mm (Including the depth of each piece of wood) or 600mm in height? (Not including the depth of each bit of wood)

I've made even more adjustments to the actual shelf dimensions as well... (Again

)
This would be a left hand side view of the shelf:

This is an example of what I want each shelf to be like. Wiring will have access between shelves etc

This will be the top of the shelf, with a fan directly on top to dissipate the heat from the amp.

p.s. I'm really sorry about the picture quality of the plans, Bad light and camera phone don't help.

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 00:14

overall measurement is just that... overall. top thickness + space + shelf thickness + space + shelf thickness + space + bottom = overall measurement.

I was a bespoke joiner in another life

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 10:41

Just looking at your plans.
You could just make the shelves so they don't go all the way in for wire access (back 20-40mm open).
How does airflow work? I see ?fans? at back on each side of shelves and one in top. Assume side fans are intake.

Riggy · 22 Jun 2012 at 12:36

Ahh yeah, I did think it was overall like that. I was just doubting myself due to lack of experience

So yeah, each 'shelf' will have a fan at the back on each side. One will be an intake and the other will be an outake. So the air flow created by the fans will effectively just carry away the expelled hot air from the consoles and prevent a build up of hot air within the shelves. If that makes sense?

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 14:10

Yeah, except it will be moving air from intake fan to exhaust fan. If a component isn't running as cool as you want can always put a baffle on intake fan to direct air to component's intake.

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 14:11

A 50mm gap at back of each shelf and out top would be all the airflow you would probabl need... No fans

Air would be drawn in under front of components, up through them, and on up the back

Riggy · 22 Jun 2012 at 16:13

doyll said:
Yeah, except it will be moving air from intake fan to exhaust fan. If a component isn't running as cool as you want can always put a baffle on intake fan to direct air to component's intake.

Yeah very true, but with the amount of air flowing through the shelves, I think they will be running cool enough.

A 50mm gap at back of each shelf and out top would be all the airflow you would probably need... No fans...

But that isn't any fun is it?

I know it's overkill, but I like the idea of them. I'm even considering the LED mod that Tealc has done. With the white fins on the fans, blue LED's would look smashing :cool:

It would even go with the rest of my kit. I tend to go with blue lighting on equipment if I can you see.

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 16:16

LOL. i agree.
It's all part of the fun.
I'm not into lights but can understand those that are.

Look forward to seeing some pics

Riggy · 22 Jun 2012 at 16:18

Actually Doyll, how do you find that Define R2 case? Cooling in particular? I really wanted that case when I first bought my set up, but budget prevented me from doing so and ended up getting the Antec 300

Tealc · 22 Jun 2012 at 16:27

Br00m did a blue LED on a white fan in that tutorial thread.

I bet they look even better in the flesh.

I've been meaning to get around to putting orange on my new white fans for a few weeks now.

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 17:32

Riggy said:
Actually Doyll, how do you find that Define R2 case? Cooling in particular? I really wanted that case when I first bought my set up, but budget prevented me from doing so and ended up getting the Antec 300

I love it. I bought it used with no fans.
Using 3x 120mm Akasa AK-FN053 500-1500rpm; 18.3-24.6db(A); 17.381 - 50.54 CFM; 0.152 - 1.32mm H20 and 4x 140mm Thermalright TR TY-140 900-1300rpm; 17-21dBA; 28.3-74CFM - 1.89mm H2O. 2x 120mm front intake and 1x 140mm bottom intake. 1x 120mm back exhaust. Phanteks PH-TC14PW w/3x140mm TR TY-140 fans ducted out top. Top vent open but only heatsink exhaust duct. All fans are on Akasa and Gelid PWM splitter with HSF intake master rpm to mobo. These splitters use molex power from PSU. System is almost completely silent. Corsair TX650 v.2 is loudest noise at less then 40-50% CPU use and easily watch movies while encoding with Handbrake. Even better now with Phanteks. Isn't as loud as most forced air furnaces in homes.

I use ET6 to control the fans set 20%rpm @ 30c and 100%rpm @ 50c. I found ET6 max setting of 50c was equal to 60c CPU core reading.

Case idle or full load temp is 2-3c above ambient. CPU is 35-40c idle/low load w/fans @ 740rpm and prime is 58-61c wfans @ 1230rpm. Before installing Phanteks I was running a Noctua NH-U12P w/ 2x TY-140 with CPU idle 36-41c @ 780rpm and prime was 68-70c @ 1300rpm.

Fractal Design has outstanding customer support. I was missing a few HDD mount screws and emailed them asking where I might buy so. They asked for my address and case serial number and sent me a complete set of screws free. They sell USB3.0 upgrade kit for R2 / R3 with USB2.0 in them.

Sorry to be so long winded.

doyll · 22 Jun 2012 at 17:42

Antec 300 is a good case too. I almost bought one but found R2 used

Riggy · 24 Jun 2012 at 12:51

Doyll, this R2 talk is making me want to buy one! The missus wouldn't be too happy about that

I can see my next build being a fractal case with black and white components with Blue LED's!!
Yeah I can't moan at the Antec case to be fair. My case in constantly cool, regardless of what I'm doing, it just looks damn ugly!

That fan does look smashing Tealc, I'm definitely going to put the blue LED's in my fans. As long as my PSU mods goes well that is

A few component's has arrived!

That controller is actually a looker in my opinion.

I did get fan filters, but I'm not sure I'm going to use them if I'm going to put the LED's in my fans. If I was to put them on, it'll make fans look terrible (I imagine anyway). I'll see, when I've done all the modding, I can see how they look. I can always sell them in them end.

Got my PSU...

My questions is (Might sound stupid...) Which one is the positive and which is the negative? :cool:

I also went to my local joiner, and after about half an hour of trying to explain the layout and measurements (Probably my fault, my logic just seems to be different from everyone else's), I got the price. using 18mm MDF, £59! I thought that was quite cheap to be fair, I was expecting more than that but I wasn't going to tell the guy that

It should be ready around wednesday, and I'm expecting the fans, extension cables and a couple of the molex sockets tomorrow! Though I won't be able to play around and get the fans going tomorrow. Got plumbers round to quote for work and a damn funeral! Life getting in the way eh? Bad times!

Tealc · 24 Jun 2012 at 12:58

I'd imagine the red would be positive and the white ground. Hard to be sure though. If you have a suitable load you could test. A automotive light bulb, motor or something that won't blow with 12v. This is where a £5 multimeter would be handy.