Modding new ports into a radiator

LePhuronn

LePhuronn

LePhuronn

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Yo yo, my lovelies.

Are there any crazy buggers out there who have modded a radiator and drilled new ports into it?

In my current plans I have an Alphacool ST30 120 in the back of my build, but don't have quite as much room as originally planned, so getting 90 degree bends and adapters in place for my original routing will prove to be rather tricky.

Now unfortunately the ST30 variants are the only ones that don't have ports in the ends of the rad, only on the face side.

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But I wanna.

So, has anybody been reckless, ridiculous and/or legendary and drilled their own? Looks like there's space enough to get the required 11.8mm hole for G1/4 thread tapping, although you'd have to do a 13mm countersink for the O-ring, rather than the raised collar in place.

Having ports on the bottom would free up a lot of space for me to get the loop I originally planned, or shall I stop this crazy talk and just try to change the loop order?
 
That sounds crazt in a fantastic kind of way so if you do do this, please update the thread with pictures :p

You could always lseal it with silicon if the thread/O-rings don't cut the mustard.
 
.:SAmSuNG:. said:
Pretty sure you would need to weld a threaded collar into it rather than just tap the end tank.
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Yeah, just thought of that. Found a cross section image of an XT45 and all the ports have a collar

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And I doubt there's enough material in the skin to support threads.

Now, I could use an XT45 instead, but that would mean the fan is then outside the case, but other parts of the design have come better than expected, so I don't want the outside lines of my In Win 901 sullied with external components.

Ah well, it was worth a punt. Now to redesign some of the loop and make things ugly :(
 
Frank Jeagar said:
That sounds crazy in a fantastic kind of way so if you do do this, please update the thread with pictures :p

You could always lseal it with silicon if the thread/O-rings don't cut the mustard.
Click to expand...

Well, I picked up the ST30 120 used for £20. They're £30 ish new, and I'd have to buy the G1/4 tap. Is it worth an experimental punt?

I don't have mega bucks to spend, and I've already burned some cash with mistaken purchases (my Barrow Obsidian res has to go - boo sulk!), so I'm in two minds as to try this or not.

But NOT doing it will potentially mean some damn ugly tube routing (although the actual acrylic bends would look boss).
 
Sounds like a crazy idea. I will rather pick up a radiator with ports in the right place for your requirement. But you can give it a try and let us know :)
 
Yes, it is a lot of hassle and yes there are no guarantees, which is why I'm putting the theory out there for discussion.

Unfortunately I have a very specific build and layout in mind, and there's practically no leeway. Plus right now I seem to be cursed in that I've measured many, many times, drawn up some scale diagrams to check placements and spaces and just when I'm 100% confident and actually purchase an item, something was wrong with my measurements and the thing won't fit.

In the case of this radiator, the plan is to mount it inside the rear cavity of the In Win 901. I have 63mm maximum depth, and have already offset the rad to allow some access to the I/O area. However, something went wrong with my measurements and it now means that any bends in the acrylic tube, or use of 90 degree adapters will be too close to the inside back wall to then properly bend 90 back out again.

Having ports on the edge of the rad would be ideal because I have plenty of space to apply a bend or an adapter.

So yeah, it's a bit frustrating since this is second measurement error I've made.
 
.:SAmSuNG:. said:
Just buy a copper collar and drill and weld it in. There is nothing overly complicated to it.
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Except that I'm pushing my personal limits just having a bloody drill in my hand :D

So can I get these copper collars pre-threaded then? My Google Fu is weak today.

I might be OK after all, but I'll ask around some friends of mine to see if they'll weld for me.

Cheers for the input peeps.
 
Totally possible and no its pretty easy to weld it on. Or have your friend do it for you. You should be able to get a copper/brass 1/4" socket for it depending on what the material is where your trying to weld it (looks like brass to me). Drill the rad, Grind back the paint and weld it in place. Pressure test it, clean it all out for debris. Then re-spray etc.

I like your idea :). I would have a go first yourself though and if you fail let your friend do it. Nothing like doing it yourself. Feels good to see it all working. And it might come handy in the future.
 
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I had a rad bleed screw de-thread on me once, i didnt have any plumbing tools to hand so i just used my imagination, i drilled out the hole just big enough for a brass nut i happened to have in my spare screws tub, used a scouring pad from the kitchen cupboard to clean up the area and remove the paint, then just put a bit of flux on the nut and around the hole and made a small ring of solder, placed it around the nut and melted it into place on my kitchen hob. Worked a treat and used the rad for years after. Im sure a plumber would have been horrified but it didnt cost me anything and i didnt have to sit around all night without playing on my PC :)
 
panyan said:
I disagree - i thinking welding it will be difficult - especially when it cant have any leaks
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That's why I won't be welding it myself IF I even make the attempt. And considering I can't even find suitable copper collars right now I'd say this would be an exercise in futility.

But, I have these crazy ideas, so thanks to all for your input.
 
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LePhuronn said:
That's why I won't be welding it myself IF I even make the attempt. And considering I can't even find suitable copper collars right now I'd say this would be an exercise in futility.

But, I have these crazy ideas, so thanks to all for your input.
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If it were me, I dont think this rad could be used after this project really - so id probably drill holes and try to get bare copper fittings and try to braze those directly into the hole with a bit of solder or something.

(make sure on the metals before though)
 
Thread necro. This crazy/stupid idea has been resurrected because some of my test acrylic bending isn't going so well.

I'm possibly swapping out the radiator for an EK SE120 since it's 4mm thinner and will help out my bends (4mm is acres of space in this build), so I can afford to junk off the Alphacool 120.

So, can somebody point me in the right direction for suitable collars I can try and drill and weld into place?

Cheers!
 
I just had a quick Google and could see something like this working.

https://uk.rs-online.com/mobile/p/brass-copper-compression-fittings/0798369/

I wouldn't even hesitate to do this and don't see it being hard at all, then I'm quite good at this kind of thing.

As above, drill hole, clean metal, weld on collar, or just an internally threaded piece that you could cut down to size, weld into place.

Or if you didn't want to weld, what about possibly a bit that's was externally and internally threaded, two locking nuts on the outside with a countersunk hole for an o ring to create the seal, then tighten it down with one nut, locking it with the other, cut the remaining down to the top of the nuts and then pressure test it?

Just an idea, who knows, it may work, it may not :)
 
Two options:

1: Drill a 1/4" hole in it, clean/grind the paint/anodising from the area around it. Get a brass barb/compression fitting in the size of your choice, remove the O-ring, insert it and using silver flux braze it to the radiator.

2: Drill a 3/8" hole in it, clean/grind the paint/anodising from the area around it. Get a brass G3/8 to G1/4 reducer fitting, remove the O-ring, insert it and using silver flux braze it to the radiator.

If either of the above sounds daunting, re-evaluate your plans lol.
 
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