Motorbike help! :(

yh the choke is just for cold starting,once bikes warmed up 2 to 3 minutes turn off the choke,or it'll cough n splutter n stall
 
It sounds like a weak battery to me.
If a good kick will get it going but the starter won't then thats all I can think of.
Is there not a bike specific forum for your bike, even if there isn't you would probably be better off asking in a dedicated motorcycle forum.
Why wait for 2000 mile service, why not just take it in now ?
 
Battery and spark plug, also while your at it, change the oil and filter if you haven't done this already. All 3 are really simple jobs, just take your time.

Also stop putting expensive fuel in no need.
 
Could be that the valve clearances have closed up and it's losing compression. A good swing on the kickstart will spin the engine over more quickly than the relatively puny starter motors on these things, which would give a better chance of starting.
 
Dogbreath said:
Could be that the valve clearances have closed up and it's losing compression. A good swing on the kickstart will spin the engine over more quickly than the relatively puny starter motors on these things, which would give a better chance of starting.
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This, use starter motor when the engine has recently been run and is still hot. It probably doesn't have enough juice to turn it over when cold.

As for cutting out. As everyone has said, check the spark plug. Here is a good diagram for what it should and shouldn't look like:

sparkplugs.jpg


If that's normal, simply put the spark plug in the cable (called a HT lead) and leave it hanging so you can see it. Make sure it's not touching any part of the bike. Nor your skin, otherwise you will get a nasty little shot (learnt that the hard way, twice... I'm not a smart man).

Then try start the bike over, you should see a clean and strong spark. If it's all good, then it could be the carb.
 
I have seen these chinese bikes with metal spark plug caps on them, can probably be changed for an NGK alternative. Just sounds like it needs a service though can you not take it in 50 miles sooner? Also your bike won't benefit from v-power.
 
Update - took the bike in for it's service, cost me £93 :(

Cleaned my carbs, valves, filters and changed the oil - it doesn't stall randomly anymore but will cut if jerk the throttle back whilst it's idling.. very odd!

Also they said my front brake disc is kinda warped, does anyone know if this is a real thing or are they trying to get some more money out of me?

Apparently it won't affect my braking but it will make the headstock(?) vibrate more when I brake and possibly loosen things.
 
Yeah its definitely a thing, usually caused by seized or sticking caliper pistons, but the discs can be straightened though so don't bother getting a whole new set.
 
Fireskull said:
Yeah its definitely a thing, usually caused by seized or sticking caliper pistons, but the discs can be straightened though so don't bother getting a whole new set.
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Well they quoted £61 fitted, the disc is £21 from official lexmoto supplier so I'm guessing £40 labour, would it be cheaper to straighten?
 
Can you not fit them yourself, or have a mate/family member who could? if they are charing £40 to fit a disk thats a joke lol.

And no probably not, the place I used was £50 to straighten a set.
 
Fireskull said:
Can you not fit them yourself, or have a mate/family member who could? if they are charing £40 to fit a disk thats a joke lol.

And no probably not, the place I used was £50 to straighten a set.
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Hmm I could ask a few people that might be able to, I don't trust myself fitting brakes, I'd probably end up in a hedge! :P

I think it's something to do with the warranty that a lexmoto official dealer has to do things, but it's also just occurred to me as well.. shouldn't parts going bad be covered under my warranty?
 
How old is the bike? length of warranty etc?
If its under warranty I would certainly be asking why a front disk brake has warped already, specially if they say the calipers are ok?
 
If the disc is warped it can push the pistons back in the calliper, this can then mean more travel before the brakes work meaning when you need to grab a handful of front anchor it won't be there as the first pull of the lever doesn't quite have the bite you intended.
 
m4rkw7 said:
This is normal on bikes with carbs. You should wind it back gradually not jerk, is it OK then?
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Not true with CV carbs- the throttle only opens the butterfly, not the slide.

Flatslide carbs, yes absolutely.

Didn't you say you bought the bike brand new? If so, all of these things should be sorted by the dealer. Don't adjust or replace anything at all, otherwise you risk voiding the warranty.
 
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