Motoring related Q&A thread

Q: Is lease purchase on a new low/mid range car madness or am I missing something?

Example: Some random VW Golf

Duration 3 years
35 monthly payments of £179
Deposit £3,792.11
Retail cash price £13,415
Acceptance fee* £125
Optional final payment £5,022
Option to purchase fee** £60
Total amount payable £15,139.10
Total amount of credit £9,622.89
Representative APR 8.0% APR
Rate of interest 7.1% fixed
 
If my rear brakes are squeeling like a pig, do I need new shoes? and do I need to replace the drums.

car is 2001 fiesta, 45000 miles on the clock
 
Some are, some aren't. Old E36 M3's are supposed to be dodgy little so-and-so's, same with the S2000.

However, i have to say, on my E46, i've never had the back step out on me in the wet or dry. It is very hard to do in the dry, and not easy in the wet. However, with DSC on, it's pretty much impossible. I find that i have so much grip that even when pressing on hard, i never lose traction. The newer BMW's are the same, with the exception of the M models afaik.

EDIT: Tyres also make a BIG difference.

I'd say my Z4M is harder to get sideways than standard RWD cars I've driven in the wet. Largely down to the massive rear tyres and diff.
 
[TW]Fox;19274411 said:
Because something has to power the autobox?

Not exactly, and it's not really anything to do with computers being stupid either. It's all down to the fact the torque converter slips wheras a clutch in a manual box doesn't (well - unless it's fubared!). You waste a significant amount of power just pumping oil around basically. That's why they introduced lockup clutches to lock the torque converter when cruising to eliminate slip, so even a pretty old auto will get just as good mpg as a manual in a motorway cruise. Very modern auto boxes can lock up, I think in some cases, in every gear, so the mpg gap between auto and manual is virtually non existant nowadays, although impossible to close it completely. Autos will use more fuel idling in drive than a manual with the clutch down/in nuetral, so worth flicking into neutral in a long traffic jam if you're that concerned (and dont mind partially defeating the point of having an auto in the first place :)).
 
Not exactly, and it's not really anything to do with computers being stupid either. It's all down to the fact the torque converter slips wheras a clutch in a manual box doesn't (well - unless it's fubared!). You waste a significant amount of power just pumping oil around basically. That's why they introduced lockup clutches to lock the torque converter when cruising to eliminate slip, so even a pretty old auto will get just as good mpg as a manual in a motorway cruise. Very modern auto boxes can lock up, I think in some cases, in every gear, so the mpg gap between auto and manual is virtually non existant nowadays, although impossible to close it completely. Autos will use more fuel idling in drive than a manual with the clutch down/in nuetral, so worth flicking into neutral in a long traffic jam if you're that concerned (and dont mind partially defeating the point of having an auto in the first place :)).


Beat me to it (albeit in much more detail :p). I was going to say it's because torque converters aren't 100% efficient like a clutch is, more like 80-90% at best.
 
Why do automatic car's always seem to use more fuel than manuals?

Want to geek out? http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html

Page one is the basics, 2 is autos and 3 is DCTs and CVTs.

Its also a great site for explaining how most parts of a car work :)

To summarize there are two main parts of an auto that make it inefficient, the torque converters inability to transmit 100% of the engines torque (without a lock-up system) and the power required to run the hydraulics that control the gear selection. The website explains both in greater detail.

If my rear brakes are squeeling like a pig, do I need new shoes? and do I need to replace the drums.

car is 2001 fiesta, 45000 miles on the clock

When are they squeeling? If its only when you're firmly on the brakes then yes they probably do (A friend of mine had this because they'd worn all of the brake pad away and were stopping using the steel the friction material is attached to :eek: ), if its grinding without the brakes on at low speed it might just be rubbish trapped inside the drum which a pressure wash might free up. Either way I'd look at it sooner rather than later, even though the rears aren't contributing much to the overall braking force some is always better than none :)
 
Want to geek out? http://www.carbibles.com/transmission_bible.html

Page one is the basics, 2 is autos and 3 is DCTs and CVTs.

Its also a great site for explaining how most parts of a car work :)

To summarize there are two main parts of an auto that make it inefficient, the torque converters inability to transmit 100% of the engines torque (without a lock-up system) and the power required to run the hydraulics that control the gear selection. The website explains both in greater detail.



When are they squeeling? If its only when you're firmly on the brakes then yes they probably do (A friend of mine had this because they'd worn all of the brake pad away and were stopping using the steel the friction material is attached to :eek: ), if its grinding without the brakes on at low speed it might just be rubbish trapped inside the drum which a pressure wash might free up. Either way I'd look at it sooner rather than later, even though the rears aren't contributing much to the overall braking force some is always better than none :)

Don't spray water inside the drum for gods sake, don't blow it out with an airline and breath in that dust either, brake cleaner only.
 
Don't spray water inside the drum for gods sake, don't blow it out with an airline and breath in that dust either, brake cleaner only.

I've clearly picked up some bad habits then :( Usually more mud in my drums than brake though tbh, maybe that's why I'm not dead? :p

Don't do as I suggested then :p Brake cleaner only apparently :)
 
I've clearly picked up some bad habits then :( Usually more mud in my drums than brake though tbh, maybe that's why I'm not dead? :p

Don't do as I suggested then :p Brake cleaner only apparently :)

Only does it around town, when coming to a stop, makes me sound like a van. will pop the drums off and give it a clean.

could be dust I suppose, making it resonate at certain speeds when braking.
 
Why does fuel make such a big difference to the gear change in my car?

I've had my car for almost two years now, when I fill up at Sainsburys the gear change is rough and notchy, if I fill up at BP / Shell it's a great deal better, when I fill up at Excel it's almost silky smooth. When the petrol level is low it gets notchy and rough again.

Now these just aren't some one off experiences, this is conclusively what I've experienced over the time I've had it.

I've had my gear box oil changed twice and had it looked over and there absolutely nothing wrong with it.
 
Why does fuel make such a big difference to the gear change in my car?

I've had my car for almost two years now, when I fill up at Sainsburys the gear change is rough and notchy, if I fill up at BP / Shell it's a great deal better, when I fill up at Excel it's almost silky smooth. When the petrol level is low it gets notchy and rough again.

Now these just aren't some one off experiences, this is conclusively what I've experienced over the time I've had it.

I've had my gear box oil changed twice and had it looked over and there absolutely nothing wrong with it.

Well last time I topped up the engine oil water/screenwash on my wifes 206 she commented on how smooth the gear change was after. Full on placebo effect?
 
This is over two years. Sainsburys fuel literally makes my gear change 'thud', I thought my car was broken the first time I filled up. The two garages that I've taken it to have a look say otherwise. I'll have it checked out again, though.

It's five years old, haven't skipped anything, has full service history, just passed its MOT a month ago without any advisories... I'd presume there is nothing seriously wrong with it or else I'd know by now? Though admittedly the service and MOT are hardly extensive checks.
 
Q: Is lease purchase on a new low/mid range car madness or am I missing something?

Example: Some random VW Golf

Duration 3 years
35 monthly payments of £179
Deposit £3,792.11
Retail cash price £13,415
Acceptance fee* £125
Optional final payment £5,022
Option to purchase fee** £60
Total amount payable £15,139.10
Total amount of credit £9,622.89
Representative APR 8.0% APR
Rate of interest 7.1% fixed

Notsureifserious...

As far as I'm concerned, yes, it is madness. I couldn't bring myself to spend £15k on 'some random VW Golf' brand new or otherwise.
 
Q) Someone once told me that the fuel symbol on your dash will always have an arrow pointing to the side of the car that the fuel filler is on, however the last 3 cars i have driven do not show an arrow on the symbol at all....is there some truth in this myth?
 
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