Soldato
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Motoring related Q&A thread
- Thread starter Gaygle
- Start date
Soldato
- Joined
- 19 Oct 2002
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- 3,164
I seem to remember reading something along the lines of them not being great at handling large amounts of power due to it being a belt driven system
I've tried a half arsed google attempt, or I'll ask here instead. What is the typical 'construction' of a runflat tyre? I always thought that it simply meant that the tyre had a much stiffer side wall than usual?
I ask as I was meant to change a tyre valve of a Audi A4 of some description. I was told it was a run flat but I worked off of the premise in my head that it just had a mega stiff sidewall and once I had broken it then it would be happy days. So there I am applying as much pressure as our tyre machine will produce in hope of breaking the top bead and then bang! The tyre machine roller arm bent itself quite nicely and ripped a massive hole in the sidewall of the tyre in the process
.
I had a look through the nice hole I created to see that the tyre had an internal 'cage' which is something that I hadn't ever have thought of. Is this typical of run flat tyres, and if so how the hell are you supposed to get the tyre off/bead down!?
So I killed a tyre, several grand's worth of tyre machine and the highly profitable business of changing tyres for three separate workshops for a week+. Not bad for an afternoons work
I ask as I was meant to change a tyre valve of a Audi A4 of some description. I was told it was a run flat but I worked off of the premise in my head that it just had a mega stiff sidewall and once I had broken it then it would be happy days. So there I am applying as much pressure as our tyre machine will produce in hope of breaking the top bead and then bang! The tyre machine roller arm bent itself quite nicely and ripped a massive hole in the sidewall of the tyre in the process
.I had a look through the nice hole I created to see that the tyre had an internal 'cage' which is something that I hadn't ever have thought of. Is this typical of run flat tyres, and if so how the hell are you supposed to get the tyre off/bead down!?
So I killed a tyre, several grand's worth of tyre machine and the highly profitable business of changing tyres for three separate workshops for a week+. Not bad for an afternoons work
![[TW]Fox](/data/man-of-honor/2009.png){kind=avatar}
[TW]Fox;19282007 said:
Maybe it wasn't a runflat then and rather just some sort of weird reinforced wheel/tyre (then again, I doubt a 54 A4 Avant would come with reinforced tyres
)? What was weird was that he sidewall of the tyre was noticeably splayed out on the edge of the tyre where the bead met the rim.[TW]Fox;19282007 said:
Accidents happen
.
Soldato
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- 12 Dec 2002
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You can never change oil and filters too often, and never skimp on oil!!
Let the engine cool after a hard thrash, not just let it idle so a slow-ish cruise home like the reverse of wthe warmup (like if you had a turbo) as this allows the engine to cool down uniformly and stops any hot spotting. (after a long hoon parts of your engine may be exceptionaly hot and other parts not so hot, just helps with stress from parts shrinking at diffrent rates etc...)
Other than that go mental, just be careful of enthuiastic down shifts not to over rev.
Sounds like good advice.
Here's another one - after the engine is properly warmed up is there any problems in hitting 200rpm shy of the rev limiter in 1st, or should that be avoided at all costs really?
Dont get over revs recorded on that ecu with racing down shifts or missed gears, other than that thrash it to death that engine is a tank, plus you got a warranty.
Unless you are really pushing it, or have a car prone to some really bad handling characteristics, I've noticed very little difference between FWD and RWD in general driving. Since having the '5 I've only had the back end move once and that was half purposefully in the wet on a massive empty junction. It wasn't much at all but it was nice to know what it felt like in case it ever happens by accident elsewhere.
Associate
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I've tried for years to prove my dad wrong, but without going back to the 70's I haven't found a car without at least some indication from inside as to which side the fuel filler cap is on
Try driving a CVT, its weird. I think if you could isolate the noise of the engine perfectly then it may catch on, but going everywhere with a car buzzing at 2-3k RPM must get irritating
They're not really belts in the way you imagine it any more, they're steel bands to give push and pull forces, almost chain like. They're still naff though
Nissan developed an awesome system to get around this:
You wont break it mate, mine is a lot older and believe me I hammer the **** out of it at times. So long as you warm it up, check the oil often and keep an eye on the temp gague your set to go. The engines are actually pretty bomb proof from what I can gather and you just have to love the sound of that flat 6 behind you when your on the boil
eidt: For the record Ive only owned mine for 2 months so to be fair don't take my word for it.
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Lol, I love that:
"Here's my opinion... you'd be best to ignore it"
I've never nannied any of my cars except maybe from cold in the winter, and the engines in them were about the only things that never went wrong
You just have to remember it's not a ming vase but a modern engine, a box of explosions, built to last for years and for a billion revolutions, and there's not a lot you can do short of serious abuse to cause any real damage.
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