Mountain Biking

Your joking! Ive found PayPal useful the couple if times this has happened to me.

Just didnt sell? PayPal goods though?
Got flagged as a spammer after multiple people tried to buy an item that was “available” and the seller said it was knowing they had been paid by someone via PayPal. (invoiced so can be returned by PayPal so long as proof of scam/fraud can be provided.) Pinkbike delete listings and flag the seller though which makes it difficult. We shall see what comes of it. If I use pinkbike moving forward it’ll be cash on collection only following serial number check.
 
last time i bought something off Pinkbike it was in person but felt like i was going to get stabbed. Met a guy outside a pub in south east London :cry:

DH Bike back together after suspension had WPS treatment and custom tuning. High roller 3s off for warranty so went with Assegai + DHR2 as i know it.

Loved the Hope GR4s so much on the eeb bought a set for this :cry:

Sent my Zebs off for service on the eeb and lower headset bearing is toast after 500 miles in the minging winter weather we have had. Gritty and corroded. I dont jetwash it. Guess im going to have to check all the frame bearings. Ive got a 3d printer and got a bit carried away with printing bike things. Printed a set of Bearing tools to use with my smaller tool. My large bearing press i find a pain to get in the rear triangle.

Off the bikes for a couple of weeks now due to family/social things. Then its Dyfi, Revolution and Dirt farm three weekends in a row on the Saracen.

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Any of you guys build your own wheels, I fancy giving it a go.
Getting the correct spoke length seems to me to be the hardest bit. The rest is just methodically putting it all together.
 
I've tried it, I'd recommend paying the bike shop :D I could get it 98% true pretty quickly but getting it perfect was difficult as I'd move it round when adjusting spokes. Recon it would have taken me hours to get it spot on.

Took it to the bike shop in the end, 2 minutes later he comes back with it perfect.
 
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I’ve considered it every time I've needed new weeks, it's literally the only thing I don't do when working on my bikes.
But I always get put off when looking at the price of decent wheel stands and worry that I might end up having to take it to a shop anyway.

Though saying all that the cost of getting a decent wheel builder to just do the final trueing up should be a good chunk less than the cost of the full build.

I'm currently in the market for new wheels, right now, should I play it safe and go with Hope Pro 5 or are there any other suggestions for around the same price? Will be getting built with Stans Flow rims
 
I always default to Hope Hubs, I don't mind DT Swiss either but I try to keep them all the same.
I second this. Hope 5 are superb with DT350 coming in close behind. The only difference that really to take of note is that the DT350 from experience requires far less maintenance so if you want fit and forget then the DT350 is as close as you will likely get. This isn’t to say that the hope 5 pros are poor and need a lot of servicing though, they just need a little more love that’s all.
 
I bought a DMR wheeler bar for my eMTB, not fit a handlebar on before and I want to avoid paying a bike shop £35 to fit it, worth trying it myself?
 
I bought a DMR wheeler bar for my eMTB, not fit a handlebar on before and I want to avoid paying a bike shop £35 to fit it, worth trying it myself?


Make sure the bike is stood and stable if you don’t have a stand.

Remove the bolts retaining the bar and remove the bar.

Add the new bar but leave loose enough that it can rotate and move along its length in the stem.

Remove the grips, brakes etc from one side and fit to the new bar and repeat for the other.

Adjust the bar angle, grips, shifter etc to your preference and then tighten down to the recommended torque from manufacturer.

If you don’t have a torque wrench, tighten until nothing moves and is tight and then back it off round an 8th of a turn. If it stays where it is supposed to then great, if it rotates etc then just give it a small nudge with the Allen key it it doesn’t move unless significant force is applied.

It’s probably a 10 minute job even for a novice and an easy way to save £35. You can always put that £35 towards a cheap-ish torque wrench and set it as it should be both now and in the future when you do something to your bike.
 
I did fit it on but took me around an hour, new bar is defo more comfortable and easier to maneuver with going to havok bike park to test it as i type this
 
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Any of you guys build your own wheels, I fancy giving it a go.
Getting the correct spoke length seems to me to be the hardest bit. The rest is just methodically putting it all together.
Not easy, but doable if you are mechanically minded, methodical and have patience. Ali Clarkson did a great wheel build series on YouTube a while back and proves that anyone can build their own wheels using the most basic of kit.

Taking an old wheel apart and putting it back together is a good way to see if you have the patience. You know the wheel is true, the spokes are the right length and everything works - you just need to reverse the process!
 
I bought a DMR wheeler bar for my eMTB, not fit a handlebar on before and I want to avoid paying a bike shop £35 to fit it, worth trying it myself?
£35 to fit a bar?! Do they finish you off for that price or is it just the bike they'll be touching?

I did fit it on but took me around an hour, new bar is defo more comfortable and easier to maneuver with going to havok bike park to test it as i type this
Did you find something particularly tricky in replacing the handlebar for it to take around an hour?

Or was that 10-minutes to change the bar and then the rest of the time messing with the brakes, grips and other levers to get them where you wanted them to be?
 
£35 to fit a bar?! Do they finish you off for that price or is it just the bike they'll be touching?


Did you find something particularly tricky in replacing the handlebar for it to take around an hour?

Or was that 10-minutes to change the bar and then the rest of the time messing with the brakes, grips and other levers to get them where you wanted them to be?

it took around an hour to put the new bar on and put the brakes and everything back on and make sure everything is aligned, also didnt have a bike stand

makes the bike more comfortable and it has definately helped me control the bike as i can do more jumps at the bike park and and go down more drops. just wondering how much better I would be if I had bought a bike my size though (my ideal size would be Large and this is an XL), that being said I don't find the bike uncomfortable or anything
 
Bit the bullet and ordered these, the DT 350 DEG 90T option (can always add the DF thing though i dont think im too bothered about that)


Tricky trying to work out exactly how much lighter than my current wheels they will be.

Hope Pro 4 with DT 481 rimes and 32x CX Ray spokes.

Rim weights 481 are 550g and the 30SL are 450g, spokes will be a bit heavier but there are less of them, hubs not sure. I have wanted to try carbon rims for so long and see nothing but praise for Reserve wheels and rims.
Obviously ordered them to work so the wife doesn't seem them. :cry:
 
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I was disappointed going to carbon wheels couldn't tell the difference it was only once I changed to much lighter tyres knocking off almost 1kg that it made a notable difference (went from DH casing to trail tyres). What was very noticeable was the higher engaging hub on technical climbs much better so worth it for that but if I was to do it again I'd stick with DT Swiss aluminium FR rims.
 
One thing that is interesting on the Reserve wheels is the square of extra carbon round the spokes, I started to pull the spokes out the carbon wheels that came on my hardtail, once I stripped them to send back for a replacement noticed from the logos inside the rim they were Chinese wheels. I was one hard brake away from pulling out the spokes which I recon would have ended up with me falling off the bike.
 
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