MX5 Owners in here....bring your curling tongs

visibleman said:
Looking at a 2012 mk3.5 PRHT Venture over the weekend and had a thorough rummage through the MX5OC and MX5Nutz forums at buying guides. Car seems decent, reasonably low mileage for age and all checks out on the VCheck report but other than whats on the MX5 forums, has anyone got any additional things i should look out for?
Also read that the oil level should be kept at Max (or just over) on mk3's - how much of an issue is it if it's below? Just wondering if i do a runner if that's the case.
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PRHT. It should smoothly go up or down in about 12 seconds. If it seems like it's struggling then something is wrong and it'll potentially cost a bomb to fix.

Rust rust rust. If it's in good condition underneath it's either been undersealed and the owner stayed on top of this or the car was only taken out in good weather. If it's rust free and not undersealed get it done! Rear arches can suffer too, and underside of bootlid by the numberplate lights.

Oil level does need to be kept at Max and if a tiny bit under I wouldn't be too bothered but if really low I'd suspect neglect.

Having said all that they're ultra reliable and an absolute hoot to drive!

Good luck.
 
The one thing that bothers me as far as keeping my NC2 PRHT for a long time is the rust. It's almost non existent on my car but I do have little bits on the rear arches and I do have a bit on the boot lid by the lights. It's actually slightly ruining a really nice ownership experience as it hasn't put a foot wrong.

Do you guys think I should change it up this year and maybe buy an ND or go different with a 987 Boxster (albeit an older one) or something. I love the car but the thought of repairs that I can't put a price on really bothers me. I've had it three years now and put 25k on it, it's at about 67k now, it's probably only lost about 2k in value from when I bought it which is a bonus.

Would be interested to hear your thoughts!
 
If you're happy with the NC other than the rust, I'd look to getting it treated now. It'll probably cost a couple of hundred quid to sort now rather than £1000 once the rust has set in and started to eat the arches away.

Alternatively, as long as the rust hasn't started to penetrate the metal too much, there are plenty of products that you can buy yourself and have a go at treating the rust at home. Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol make some fantastic products which have the potential to completely neutralise the rust. Of course, this does depend on how mechanically minded you are and whether its something you'd want to do yourself.
 
agw_01 said:
If you're happy with the NC other than the rust, I'd look to getting it treated now. It'll probably cost a couple of hundred quid to sort now rather than £1000 once the rust has set in and started to eat the arches away.

Alternatively, as long as the rust hasn't started to penetrate the metal too much, there are plenty of products that you can buy yourself and have a go at treating the rust at home. Bilt Hamber and Dinitrol make some fantastic products which have the potential to completely neutralise the rust. Of course, this does depend on how mechanically minded you are and whether its something you'd want to do yourself.
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I had it 'treated' by a local garage as didn't want to throw too much money at it. That was 2 years ago but it has started coming back. I could use the MX5 restorer in Eastbourne near me but they are seriously pricey (an excellent job I'm sure). It just seems like every couple of years I'm having to throw £500 at the problem.
 
Cleisthenes said:
Would love one of those but am not in a position to buy one at the mo without financing a substantial chunk. I have about 6.5k in my car I think so would need another 15 or so I would imagine for an ND2. The higher power output does appeal though!
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Remap and sports exhaust manifold will give you 180bhp :)

My car is exactly the same, a tiny bit of rust on the rear arches and bootlid, its on 60k. I treat it each summer and by spring it's back. It's definitely the salt in the road, but it's my daily, plus I love driving it :) I've been going back to bare metal with a wire wheel, using salt remover and even examining the metal for microscopic rust before treating, but I'm obviously doing something wrong. I've been using rustbusters mastic epoxy but this year might give bilt hamber a go.
 
bainbridge said:
Remap and sports exhaust manifold will give you 180bhp :)

My car is exactly the same, a tiny bit of rust on the rear arches and bootlid, its on 60k. I treat it each summer and by spring it's back. It's definitely the salt in the road, but it's my daily, plus I love driving it :) I've been going back to bare metal with a wire wheel, using salt remover and even examining the metal for microscopic rust before treating, but I'm obviously doing something wrong. I've been using rustbusters mastic epoxy but this year might give bilt hamber a go.
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I'd be really interested to see the process you go through, I may well give it a go myself. I guess treating around the rear registration lights will be more tricky via that method?

I love driving mine too, such a shame that Mazda don't seem to be aware that countries with loads of salt on the road exist :rolleyes:


sideways14a said:
Good pcp deals out there, heck in 2016 when i got my ND1 i got 3 grand off plus and additional deposit for an e46 that was not the best (cant remember what that was TBH)
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It's hard to justify a couple of hundred a month when my NC is doing brilliantly and barely costs me anything in maintenance, plus I own all of it. I'm only 25 and still trying build a career, plus with a mortgage and other expenses it seems daft to throw a lot of money at a new car. I think I'd be more likely to buy an ND1 2.0 for around 10k and just financing the extra little bit.
 
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Lovely car! I'd advise exactly the same as to visibleman:

bainbridge said:
PRHT. It should smoothly go up or down in about 12 seconds. If it seems like it's struggling then something is wrong and it'll potentially cost a bomb to fix.

Rust rust rust. If it's in good condition underneath it's either been undersealed and the owner stayed on top of this or the car was only taken out in good weather. If it's rust free and not undersealed get it done! Rear arches can suffer too, and underside of bootlid by the numberplate lights.

Oil level does need to be kept at Max and if a tiny bit under I wouldn't be too bothered but if really low I'd suspect neglect.

Having said all that they're ultra reliable and an absolute hoot to drive!

Good luck.
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Well it was a great little car, I went along too - we were given the keys and told to go and take it out, realised I'd never driven an MX5 on the roads before and it was great fun.

Checked for all of the suggestions above and all good, so dad has left a deposit and we're going back next weekend to collect :)
 
Maccy said:
Well it was a great little car, I went along too - we were given the keys and told to go and take it out, realised I'd never driven an MX5 on the roads before and it was great fun.

Checked for all of the suggestions above and all good, so dad has left a deposit and we're going back next weekend to collect :)
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Great stuff! Tbh looking at the ad it was such a nice example I figured the only thing stopping a purchase would have been if he was too tall for the car.
 
Took the MX5 out of hibernation (garaged on 1st Dec and gave it a quick run in mid Jan) and...

Erm stopped the engine quick.



Turned out the alternator had completely seized so it wore the belt away within seconds.



Got a new one fitted and new belts. So shiny so chrome :D



Idle was rough which is something I knew needed sorting. Swapped the MAF over from the K&N one to the stock one I still had. Sorted it out nicely :) Also a chance to clean up the heatshield and cone.



 
Afternoon all,

Just had a 'P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input' error popup and whilst the car feels ok, i suspect it probably needs sorting.

Has anyone had the joys of replacing a knock-sensor on a MK3 NC? If so, on the scale of 'It's a pain' to 'Complete ******* of a job', where does it lie? And are there any decent guides and/or tips doing it?

Thought i'd tackle it myself as the part isn't expensive but Googling seems to suggest it's a bit of pig as the inlet manifold and accessories have to be removed to gain access. Also doesn't help i can only find a few guides/tutorials for previous marks, with the closest being for a 2.3L lump - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGeKuZObzTw (layout looks similar to the 2L).


Edit - Completely separate question but can anyone recommend a decent MX5 specialist in the Beds/Three-Counties area?
I've been warned-off from using the local and the recommendations i have got (Cleverly etc) are a fair old trek away.
 
visibleman said:
Afternoon all,

Just had a 'P0328 Knock Sensor 1 Circuit High Input' error popup and whilst the car feels ok, i suspect it probably needs sorting.

Has anyone had the joys of replacing a knock-sensor on a MK3 NC? If so, on the scale of 'It's a pain' to 'Complete ******* of a job', where does it lie? And are there any decent guides and/or tips doing it?

Thought i'd tackle it myself as the part isn't expensive but Googling seems to suggest it's a bit of pig as the inlet manifold and accessories have to be removed to gain access. Also doesn't help i can only find a few guides/tutorials for previous marks, with the closest being for a 2.3L lump - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dGeKuZObzTw (layout looks similar to the 2L).


Edit - Completely separate question but can anyone recommend a decent MX5 specialist in the Beds/Three-Counties area?
I've been warned-off from using the local and the recommendations i have got (Cleverly etc) are a fair old trek away.
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Not quite beds but BBR aren't a million miles away over in Brackley
 
Dropped my NBFL in today for some love and attention, including:
- replacing the chassis rails
- replace the stock speakers with some nice Focal units
- tidy up on the under-sealing on the sill seams
- fully clean out the drain holes as I think they’re gunked up
- resolve an issue with the electrics for the heating of the drivers seat

very much looking forward to collecting it again next Sat
 
Any of you guys used GC Fab roll bars before? I really like the look of a big rollbar in an MX-5 (compared to those silly little chrome hoops) and they seem quite well priced. While clearly a good idea from a safety point of view, do they help much with the chassis flex? Mine is already on Gaz coilovers with AD08s so is a very fun little package, but there's definitely a bit of softness that I'd like to dial out. I'd probably fit some of the GCF door braces for good measure while I'm at it.
 
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