My computer refuses to boot up... =(
- Thread starter nfe0007
- Start date
From the below diagram you have three pins - *CLR_CMOS_1* - the red block by the battery – sometimes there will be a jumper block permanently covering 2 of the pins. To clear the CMOS just move the jumper block over by one pin so that the middle pin is still covered – leave for a few seconds and then move it back (unplug your computer).
If there isn’t a jumper block, and you can’t work out which of the 2 pins clears the CMOS, make sure your computer is unplugged and then get a screwdriver and touch 2 of the pins , directly next to each other, marked CLR_CMOS simultaneously (the middle pin will always be part of the process) – i.e. the middle one plus the left one and then try the middle one plus the right one. One of these actions will clear the CMOS the other will do nothing.
You only need to touch the pins for a couple of seconds – but make sure your PC is unplugged if you use the screwdriver technique!!!
If there isn’t a jumper block, and you can’t work out which of the 2 pins clears the CMOS, make sure your computer is unplugged and then get a screwdriver and touch 2 of the pins , directly next to each other, marked CLR_CMOS simultaneously (the middle pin will always be part of the process) – i.e. the middle one plus the left one and then try the middle one plus the right one. One of these actions will clear the CMOS the other will do nothing.
You only need to touch the pins for a couple of seconds – but make sure your PC is unplugged if you use the screwdriver technique!!!
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Thanks again for clearing that up. Again, nothing happened. I have however taken note that when I press the power button, the regular blue light that turns on lighting up the on button doesn't come on. I felt the hard drive, it powers on, it spins, it just turns back off again. Since the light is directly infront of the hard drive, I really do think it is a hard drive problem, but that is a random guess. I guess I'm going to have to remove it, and reconnect it. I would replace it with a hard drive from my other computer, but that got a system 32 error at the exact time mine broke, and I don't have a back up cd for it. Anyway to fix that aswell btw?
It may be the HDD (although the light isn't really an indicator of a fault with the HDD - it's a symptom that the PC isn't getting past post) but it could equally be the PSU, MB, memory etc - i'm afraid you need to do some rudimentary troubleshooting first...
Try a skeleton setup - disconnect the HDD, DVD (power and SATA/IDE connectors), all peripherals (bar keyboard), and only 1 stick of memory (try the one stick in alternate slots if you don't have any success).
Test to see if it will post/get into the BIOS.
Try a skeleton setup - disconnect the HDD, DVD (power and SATA/IDE connectors), all peripherals (bar keyboard), and only 1 stick of memory (try the one stick in alternate slots if you don't have any success).
Test to see if it will post/get into the BIOS.
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A very quick reply - you don't mention the CPU or the gfx - are they still installed?
Could you describe exactly what is happening when you press power switch - i.e. what fans spin up, any screen info, hdd activity etc, how long it retains power...?
It's not the HDD which leaves the MB, CPU, PSU, gfx or other odd quirk.
Could you list your full spec details, including brand and wattage of PSU.
In the interim if you have a volt/multimeter to hand you could test the PSU - as this is always a leading contender with this type of problem - ideally you would test a known working PSU in the system.
Below are links to Huddy's site which has a step by step guide on how to test your PSU using a volt/multimeter:
'Use a multimeter to check your PSU' and one to 'How to check if your PSU is faulty'
Testing known working memory is also another good thing to eliminate - or test your memory in another machine.
It may be that you will have to setup a skeleton rig outside of the case to rule out shorting but we'll just muddle on with the above first.
Additional: Could you just clarify that all superfluous cables have been removed and all usb devices, case fans (not CPU fan) and peripherals have been detached?
Could you describe exactly what is happening when you press power switch - i.e. what fans spin up, any screen info, hdd activity etc, how long it retains power...?
It's not the HDD which leaves the MB, CPU, PSU, gfx or other odd quirk.
Could you list your full spec details, including brand and wattage of PSU.
In the interim if you have a volt/multimeter to hand you could test the PSU - as this is always a leading contender with this type of problem - ideally you would test a known working PSU in the system.
Below are links to Huddy's site which has a step by step guide on how to test your PSU using a volt/multimeter:
'Use a multimeter to check your PSU' and one to 'How to check if your PSU is faulty'
Testing known working memory is also another good thing to eliminate - or test your memory in another machine.
It may be that you will have to setup a skeleton rig outside of the case to rule out shorting but we'll just muddle on with the above first.
Additional: Could you just clarify that all superfluous cables have been removed and all usb devices, case fans (not CPU fan) and peripherals have been detached?
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I removed the PSU and used the old one before i replaced it. No change, exact same thing happened.
To try and clarify what is happening, the motherboard is powering up, as is the PSU, but they are not staying on. They just whirr, then shut off. Nothing is happening on the monitor, it never recieves any input. It powers up for about 5 seconds, then powers down again.
I have tried both sticks of RAM in both slots, no change, i don't think they are the issue.
The graphics card is removed, however there is still a graphics card attached to the motherboard, as it is built in.
Since now the only big thing remaining is the motherboard, i would guess it is that. Aslong as it wasn't the hard drive, i would not want to lose all my documents and such.
It's not the HDD as the problem exists with it unattached - breathe easy.
As you've tried a known working PSU and essentialy tried a different gfx card (sic) as you have onboard video; you're left with:
As you've come this far i would take out the MB and assemble it on some cardboard and attach only the CPU, 1 stick and use onboard gfx and see if you can get it to post.
If this fails then you're left with just the memory, CPU and MB - the most likely being the MB and then the memory.
However, sod's law lurks at every corner with computers - it still could be the PSU and you're being thrown off the scent as, coincidently, your spare PSU is also not up to the job. It's unlikely that it would replicate the exact same problem - but just keep this in mind...
Good luck.
As you've tried a known working PSU and essentialy tried a different gfx card (sic) as you have onboard video; you're left with:
- Motherboard - in what ever guise
- CPU - this is unlikely but possible
- memory - always a contender
- shorting - very possible considering the symptoms (but i think it's the MB or memory)
As you've come this far i would take out the MB and assemble it on some cardboard and attach only the CPU, 1 stick and use onboard gfx and see if you can get it to post.
If this fails then you're left with just the memory, CPU and MB - the most likely being the MB and then the memory.
However, sod's law lurks at every corner with computers - it still could be the PSU and you're being thrown off the scent as, coincidently, your spare PSU is also not up to the job. It's unlikely that it would replicate the exact same problem - but just keep this in mind...
Good luck.
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So, i have taken apart the computer, taken the motherboard out, and then did a basic re-assembly outside of the case. I have the PSU, starter button and CPU attatched to the MB, aswell as one stick of RAM. Now that i can see properly, what happens is, the PSU fan spins, the CPU fan spins, and after 5 seconds, both turn off. The start button's LED still doesn't turn on. I guess it is time for me to buy a new motherboard, and with that i may aswell get more RAM, and a new case.
It's a shame you couldn't test some other memory but with the troubleshooting you have done to date it does seem to indicate a MB problem (obviously, there are no definites until you've installed and tested the new one though…)
Your rig is still a hefty spec and the Q6600 is a legend of a chip and very clockable – with that in mind which motherboard are you thinking of getting and what cooler have you got sat on top of the CPU?
Your rig is still a hefty spec and the Q6600 is a legend of a chip and very clockable – with that in mind which motherboard are you thinking of getting and what cooler have you got sat on top of the CPU?
Would the motherboard be able to post without the CPU in? Because with that out, there is still no change. The only change I notice is that the red LED on the start button turns on dimly, and then will remain on, aswell as the PSU fan spinning, until I hold down the start button, where the LED will flash red and then turn off. With the CPU fan in and the cooler fan on, the light never turns on, the PSU spins for 5 seconds, then the light flashes on and the fans stop.
Just a few things I need to ask. I only just took the CPU out, and nothing changed.
So, how do I figure out if it is the CPU or motherboard? The CPU had some blue crap on top of it, like really old blu-tac/paint. Any idea what this was or if it does anything? It's also on the bottom of the CPU cooler fan.
Will the computer post without a keyboard in? I keep forgetting to plug it in, it won't make a difference, right?
The only things I have plugged into the motherboard is the big block from the psu to give that power, the cpu block from the psu, and a small cable from 7 pins going to the starter button. Is that all I need to have connected? Am I missing anything vital?
Just a few things I need to ask. I only just took the CPU out, and nothing changed.
So, how do I figure out if it is the CPU or motherboard? The CPU had some blue crap on top of it, like really old blu-tac/paint. Any idea what this was or if it does anything? It's also on the bottom of the CPU cooler fan.
Will the computer post without a keyboard in? I keep forgetting to plug it in, it won't make a difference, right?
The only things I have plugged into the motherboard is the big block from the psu to give that power, the cpu block from the psu, and a small cable from 7 pins going to the starter button. Is that all I need to have connected? Am I missing anything vital?
No, the computer wont POST without a CPU installed - you may get some beeps if a speaker is installed to notify you one isn't installed.
The 'blue crap' is thermal paste/pad - helps create a better/even contact bewteen the HS and the CPU by filling in the small gaps - clean it off with some IPA (isopropyl) and paper towel (you can use meths if you can't get hold of IPA)
Yes, the computer will POST without a keyboard - but it would make negotiating the BIOS impossible if it did - but worth testing to see if it POSTs without.
Basically, to achieve POST you need a CPU, memory (1 stick), gfx card/onboard and a suitable PSU - and if you want to enter and change settings in the BIOS, a keyboard.
The only way you're going to be able to prove for certain if it's the CPU or the MB is by testing the CPU in another MB or vice versa.
The percentages favour the MB beaing at fault as processors have much greater reliability/life spans (as a rule).
The 'blue crap' is thermal paste/pad - helps create a better/even contact bewteen the HS and the CPU by filling in the small gaps - clean it off with some IPA (isopropyl) and paper towel (you can use meths if you can't get hold of IPA)
Yes, the computer will POST without a keyboard - but it would make negotiating the BIOS impossible if it did - but worth testing to see if it POSTs without.
Basically, to achieve POST you need a CPU, memory (1 stick), gfx card/onboard and a suitable PSU - and if you want to enter and change settings in the BIOS, a keyboard.
The only way you're going to be able to prove for certain if it's the CPU or the MB is by testing the CPU in another MB or vice versa.
The percentages favour the MB beaing at fault as processors have much greater reliability/life spans (as a rule).
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EDIT: See above post too
EDIT: Testing a skeleton setup (CPU, memory (1 stick), gfx card/onboard and a suitable PSU) outside of the case (see above) You will need the 24 pin ATX connected and the 4 pin (CPU) connected and if you haven’t got onboard gfx you need the power supply to the gfx card (if required) - but you don't need to use the case headers/panel pins. You can start the system up using a screwdriver by shorting/touching the 2 power switch connector/pins found on the header panel – you only need to touch them briefly. If the system powers on/POSTs then the case is at fault – if not you’re probably still looking at the MB as the most likely cause (if you're in any doubt about which 2 pins to use/short use the case leads)
It's looking a lot like the MB and as you have it out of the case, and all the components taken out, study the board for swollen/leaking capacitors or any signs of scorching/browning. Even if there are no visible signs of damage it would still be the most likely culprit.
(All this is assuming that you have tested a known working PSU and memory? - i think you have, i can't remember...)
EDIT: Testing a skeleton setup (CPU, memory (1 stick), gfx card/onboard and a suitable PSU) outside of the case (see above) You will need the 24 pin ATX connected and the 4 pin (CPU) connected and if you haven’t got onboard gfx you need the power supply to the gfx card (if required) - but you don't need to use the case headers/panel pins. You can start the system up using a screwdriver by shorting/touching the 2 power switch connector/pins found on the header panel – you only need to touch them briefly. If the system powers on/POSTs then the case is at fault – if not you’re probably still looking at the MB as the most likely cause (if you're in any doubt about which 2 pins to use/short use the case leads)
It's looking a lot like the MB and as you have it out of the case, and all the components taken out, study the board for swollen/leaking capacitors or any signs of scorching/browning. Even if there are no visible signs of damage it would still be the most likely culprit.
(All this is assuming that you have tested a known working PSU and memory? - i think you have, i can't remember...)
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How deep can the rabbit hole go?
A few posts ago I said how I had another broken computer that broke at exactly the same time? Well, after various attempts of booting it up and not being able to get past the system 32 error without the lost installation cd, I finally restored it to an old point. After turning it on and off again, the problem came back, and this time I couldn't start it in safe mode.
I was given permission to take this computer apart. I knew that the system 32 error should only be a hard drive issue, and I had a working hard drive from my own computer. After a quick swap over I started the other computer with my hard drive in it. And... The same blue screen appeared exactly as it did before my computer first broke. Luckily, the computer still boots, so I can try doing system restores and repair centre fixes, which up to yet haven't worked.
Anyway, I am really rather curious as to what happened to my computer to destroy the motherboard up to the point that it won't boot, and what destroyed my hard drive enough to give me a blue error message and a restart every time vista starts.
A few posts ago I said how I had another broken computer that broke at exactly the same time? Well, after various attempts of booting it up and not being able to get past the system 32 error without the lost installation cd, I finally restored it to an old point. After turning it on and off again, the problem came back, and this time I couldn't start it in safe mode.
I was given permission to take this computer apart. I knew that the system 32 error should only be a hard drive issue, and I had a working hard drive from my own computer. After a quick swap over I started the other computer with my hard drive in it. And... The same blue screen appeared exactly as it did before my computer first broke. Luckily, the computer still boots, so I can try doing system restores and repair centre fixes, which up to yet haven't worked.
Anyway, I am really rather curious as to what happened to my computer to destroy the motherboard up to the point that it won't boot, and what destroyed my hard drive enough to give me a blue error message and a restart every time vista starts.