My Golf - Update thread

The R1 pump is designed to pull from a tank, I doubt it can cope with a positive pressure behind it.

Try pulling the main pump Fuse after its primed to see if runs any better. Although I'm not sure how well the R1 pump will draw through the main pump.
 
Thinking maybe more suited forums would help with this problem (assume you have posted this elsewhere) as it seems that a lot of the ideas are for more typical cars.

:(
 
The carb jets and the venturi across the throat from the mass flow give you the metered fuel and air mixture. There are no electronics involved in the fuelling hence no crankshaft position sensor.

Im not sure why your are suggesting another forum either.

No typical car has an 8 psi tank suction pump fed with a 45psi fuel injection pump.
 
No need for other for forums, some great help and advice so far.

I (perhaps naively) thought that the pressure being delivered to the R1 pump wouldn't be a lot at all, due to the fuel feed being directly connected to the return. It would appear that I was wrong.

I'll pull the fuse on the injection pump tomorrow, hopefully the lifter pump will help the R1 pump pull the fuel through the non-functioning injection pump.
 
Drex -just to test the theory and save a lot of arsing around with bypassing the lift pump and hoping the R1 pump will still draw at a sufficient rate, I would get a jerry can full of petrol, whack a length of fuel pipe in it, connect that to the R6 pump and try getting it to run off a can. Run a second length of pipe from the standard outlet in the engine bay back into the jerry can so it doesn't start pumping out everywhere in the engine bay.

That way, you won't be overfuelling because your stock setup is pumping into a can and having nothing to do with the running of the engine, and the R1 pump is getting a "pure" supply of it's own straight out of the can without interference from the stock setup. Assuming it all runs hunky dory set up like this, then try deactivating the 2 stock pumps (1 lift pump, one external pump on an 8v K jet, right?) and running the R1 pump in line with the now non-functioning original pumps. If it still works you know they don't interfere, if it runs worse you know they are interfering and that you need to run a new line from the tank.
 
-westy- said:
Would probably be a good idea to either have a large fuel can, or one thats not full - as surely the stock fuel pump would have a higher flow rate than the R1 pump?
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Aye, they do pump at a fair old rate, I'd use one of those metal jerry cans rather than a plastic petrol station jobbie. Or just pull the fuse/connection for the pump if it's easily accessible.
 
Lopéz said:
Aye, they do pump at a fair old rate, I'd use one of those metal jerry cans rather than a plastic petrol station jobbie. Or just pull the fuse/connection for the pump if it's easily accessible.
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Surely then you're just jumping to the second stage of the plan, and then you'd be unsure of if it actually works, if the R1 pump can't pull through the standard pump?
 
-westy- said:
Surely then you're just jumping to the second stage of the plan, and then you'd be unsure of if it actually works, if the R1 pump can't pull through the standard pump?
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No. He wants to start off with just the R1 pump on it's own, not being impacted by the stock pump in any way shape or form. So he needs to isolate it. Whether he does this by letting the stock pump fire off into a bucket, or by disconnecting it, doesn't really matter. Once we establish if the R1 pump will let it run half tidy on a standalone basis, then we can look at hooking it up to the original supply with (or without) the disabled stock pump.

If it still won't run properly on the R1 pump alone, the issue is probably not being caused by the stock pumps and he needs to look elsewhere.....

Eliminate potential problems one at a time. Fault finding is great fun and it's all we're doing at this stage.
 
Surely your better off getting rid of the standard pump anyways? Im running just a facet pump on my carbs? Bike carbs require very low pressure as well. Nothing like say twin 45's for example which are around 3.5psi
 
OK, I tried Lopez's bypass trick, no luck, the engine still did the same thing. I then connected all the fuel lines up again, pulled the plug on the main pump and it was still no-go. I then pulled the plug on the lift pump too, still no joy.....

Anyway, just as I was about to start raging my new dizzy cap and HT leads arrived. Threw them on, reconnected the pump plugs and she fired straight up. 5 minutes later it's still running, so I decide to venture up the road, still running and driving sweet as a nut :D :D

Looks like it was the dizzy cap or HT leads all along. I'll still eliminate the main pump but for now it's running, and running very nicely. Not only does it sound epic, it drives amazingly smoothly, and I can already feel that it's got more low-down grunt than the old engine and is much more responsive. A few bugs to iron out (throttle cable is a little sticky so it's holding it's revs too long, and the exhaust has a slight leak at the manifold/downpipe join) but it's more than drivable :D :D :D

Thanks for all the help people :cool:

A couple of pics of the (mostly) finished article. Yes, know I still need to spruce it up in the engine bay:

IMG_0349Medium.jpg


IMG_0352Medium.jpg
 
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