Need help - Temps out of control after reapplying paste

How old is the H60, it looks really old to me.

Also, you need to completely clean away the thermal paste from the block, to the point when you can see the copper on the block. The grey remains on the block I think is thermal paste. P.S. it can quite a bit of rubbing.

Check if the pump is running and is it plugged into a properly powered header?
 
Been reading up a bit on the Corsair forums and one issue might be the pump not having enough power, with some people suggesting to plug it straight into a MOLEX connector on the PSU. The way it has been running all these years was that it was plugged into the SYS FAN 4. I then plugged it onto the SYS FAN 3 right next to it, and it went from 1800rpm to around 1780 in HWMON. Then I plugged it into the SYS FAN 1 (a more awkward position in terms of wiring) and something interesting happened:
h60-2.PNG


5000rpm? So all is well with the pump after all then? Still high temps, so put it back in SYS FAN 4 for now.

Checked my BIOS and disabled Smart fan control, no difference, and it's all set to 100% from what I can see.

So, still nothing we can say for sure then?

@deFiniLogGy, this H60 is almost 5 years old now, so yeah, maybe it is simply giving up the ghost. Thermal paste was completely removed from the block but as per Arctic Silver I primed the surface with a very thin layer, and on my third attempt didn't put anything on the heat sink, just the small pea on the CPU. I might just do it one last time and really clean everything thoroughly, though I should probably just order an air cooler.
 
I'm stumped now, if the pump is working as it should be and the interface between pump block and CPU are good then I can't see what else it can be, other than some sort of blockage in the pipes which I think is unlikely.

I guess you could try seating it one last time, decent sized blob and crank it down.
 
5 years old?

How sudden have you noticed bad temps or has it degraded over time could the liquid have evaporated to the point that it's struggling to keep it cool?
 
Almost 4 years actually, got my rig end of July 2011. Time flies!
I never monitored the temperatures until a few months ago. Yes, that was stupid but I had no idea at the time.
Could have evaporated though I heard the liquid moving about when I cleaned the radiator.
Anyway, I've just ordered a 20 pound Raijintek air cooler so hopefully that can sort things out.
One question I have is, when removing the h60 aio cooler, I take it I also remove the radiator that came with it, but I can reuse the 120mm Corsair fan that came with it? Or would it be prudent to order a new one? (as silent as possible, though that all depends on how often it has to go to 100% I guess, so that Corsair one may be just fine?)
 
Yes the radiator will be attached to the pump block by it's pipes so you'll have to remove the whole lot. The fan will be reusable but I don't think the bundled fans with these coolers are anything to write home about, although if you turn down the speed via the BIOS it shouldn't be too bad at all, after all it's only going to be a case fan now and not a CPU cooling fan.
 
Indeed, I meant as an exhaust. The main thing is to get the temperatures down and then I'll start worrying about noise.
Ocuk got back to me and I'm a bit puzzled by their reply as it was them who built the pc. Either way I've got some reading up to do about removing the AIO and installing the air cooler, not sure if I'll have to remove the backplate or not, whether that means I need to take the motherboard out, etc.

Their suggestion :

It may be worth trying to attach washers along with the cooler, so in order, place cooler on pegs, place washers then screw down.

This can help give more thread to the actual screw because there is less room for the screw. Also I would check to see if the back plate of the cooler is in on the correct orientation, the back plates for those coolers are tricky and sometimes can be put on wrong.

As seen here http://www.pureoverclock.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/341.jpg
There are 2 screws in the back of your motherboard, on the backing plate you should have 2 cut outs for these screws, if the back plate isnt on in this exact way it will not be making correct contact, at all.
Click to expand...
 
FlyingPig said:
Indeed, I meant as an exhaust. The main thing is to get the temperatures down and then I'll start worrying about noise.
Ocuk got back to me and I'm a bit puzzled by their reply as it was them who built the pc. Either way I've got some reading up to do about removing the AIO and installing the air cooler, not sure if I'll have to remove the backplate or not, whether that means I need to take the motherboard out, etc.

Their suggestion :
Click to expand...

Ahh right, my mistake. Yes that'll work fine. Just a regular 120mm fan.

It's really simple to do, take both side panels off (you usually have access to the back of it from there thanks to a big cut out!) unbolt by undoing the 4 bolts on the corners, then the pump and cooler will all come out, providing you've undone the rad. then take the mount off the back of the motherboard and install new one with the instructions provided :)
 
FlyingPig said:
Pc-guy, so are you saying you think what I had in the first picture was fine?
Temperatures before were also high, though nowhere near as high, and I got reboots when gaming for longer sessions, which was the whole reason for me ordering and reapplying the thermal paste.
Click to expand...
You vcore was very high. 1.336v is probably outside the ability for the H60 to cool effectively. Also your idle temp would be that if you haven't used adaptive voltages. My vcore on 4.4hz haswell is 1.28V and that's running h100i delidded and it runs 75c and if I fix the volt it will be idling around 40c that's just how much heat the CPU will generate with that amount of volts.

So your options are to lower the volts on your current CPU and run at lower clocks, or to get better water cooling options.

You can try better thermal paste but that will give you about 1-3c improvement.
 
Yes his volts are high, mine are that high but for 4.5ghz.

But my mobo doesn't allow for adaptive voltages, I only have clock C-states enabled so it idles at 1.6ghz and it idles fine at 1.34v, around 20-22 degrees on an air cooler.

This problem could be a combination of factors and it needs a methodical process of elimination to try and figure out what's going on.

I'd try a re-seat of the cooler and turn the CPU back to stock clocks/voltage and start from there.

Flying Pig, from your first thread about this problem even your voltage for stock clocks is way way too high, you need to look into this further as I'm not sure just swapping the cooler will resolve all your issues.
 
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Thanks for all your input.
The air cooler has been shipped, might take a few days before it gets to this island!
In the meantime I reset everything to default in my BIOS and the voltages with just Google Chrome and HWMonitor open are lower, around 1V, but still getting temperatures of 95C. I'll just wait until I take out that H60 cooler and replace it with the new one, fingers crossed that's the solution. If not I might just throw 500 quid at this and upgrade my CPU and motherboard, though I was hoping to stretch it another few years (could do with a smaller case though).
 
Well then...

newcooler.PNG


:) New cooler installed without too much trouble, dare I say I'm proud of myself!

Need to have a look at air flow and case fan but so far so good, temperatures are better than I've ever seen on my rig.
 
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