Need to learn to wire up faceplates for work - what do I need to buy?

MarcLister

MarcLister

MarcLister

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Yesterday a switch in one of the classrooms at work had two cables from two network sockets plugged into it thus causing a loopback which took our network down for half the day. It is the second time it's happened in the last year and it is because each classroom does not have enough network sockets and so we've historically used switches in each classroom to expand the number of computers that can be connected to the network.

There is a classroom where CAT5 cables are hanging down from the ceiling and are directly plugged into computers and are not terminating in a network socket. This kind of thing is something that I've wanted to fix but haven't had the time as yet. The idea of network switches is something my previous boss did and whilst it works it obviously isn't the right way of doing things.

I'm now planning to make sure that each classroom has plenty of network sockets spread around the room so that we can eliminate the switches in each room and prevent crazy network problems due to loopbacks. I need to learn how to wire up faceplates and CAT5 cables to do this. Following on from this thread am I right in thinking that the following faceplates and back boxes are the correct products to be buying to learn on at home?

CAT5e double socket faceplate
Double socket back box

Are there any other products I need to buy to help me both learn how to wire all this stuff up and then use when I work on the classrooms? Do I need any of these cable testers or are there better models out there? I've already bought a crimper that bledd. recommend in another thread. I'm pretty sure that there's a box of CAT5e at work somewhere but I might need to buy RJ45 plugs and boots. I probably could also do with a cable stripper.
 
The only specialised tool you need for installing faceplates is a 'Krone' punchdown tool. A cable stripper and basic tester are also worth having.

You want to check that the cables you want to re-terminate to faceplates are solid core rather than stranded.

You shouldn't need to be attaching plugs. If you need patch cords just buy them ready assembled.

If you're having loopback issues you should be looking at the central switch settings (assuming they're managed switches).
 
bremen1874 said:
The only specialised tool you need for installing faceplates is a 'Krone' punchdown tool. A cable stripper and basic tester are also worth having.
Click to expand...
Cheers will look up Krone punchdown tools. :) Is this the one? http://www.netstoredirect.com/insta...hdown-tool.html?search_query=krone&results=20

bremen1874 said:
You want to check that the cables you want to re-terminate to faceplates are solid core rather than stranded.
Click to expand...
Will do that. I've not looked at the box of cable we've got so I don't know what it is. I don't plan to re-terminate the current cables as they probably aren't the right length to take the sensible route to the nearest network cabinet and not to the nearest desktop switch.

bremen1874 said:
You shouldn't need to be attaching plugs. If you need patch cords just buy them ready assembled.
Click to expand...
Some of the cables take a stupid route to a switch on the other side of the room when it would actually be a shorter route to the nearest network cabinet. I think it'd be better for me to make cables the length I need them than re-use them.

bremen1874 said:
If you're having loopback issues you should be looking at the central switch settings (assuming they're managed switches).
Click to expand...
The loopback issues were caused by the same switch in the same room on both occasions. The first time the loopback was caused by a cable being plugged into the switch at both ends, yesterday two cables came from network sockets and ended up in the same switch. It's was most likely someone spotting that a cable was unplugged and just plugged it into the most obvious spare socket and inadvertently caused a loopback. I don't think a network should allow anybody to cause this kind of issue which is why I want to remove the desktop switches and populate the classrooms with ample network sockets for each room.
 
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This is what I use in work..

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/cyclops-sheath-stripper-11mm-cw34m
(crazy price at £3, mine was nearer £10-15) - Cyclops cable stripper


This punchdown tool.
http://www.netstoredirect.com/trend...l-with-110-and-krone-blade-0710931401103.html


This tool for making crimping RJ45 ends
http://cpc.farnell.com/duratool/d03024/crimp-tool-rj45/dp/TL07304


Testers
I use two..

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durable-R...le-Tester-with-Portable-Bag-New-/400811777577

This one £10

and this £2 one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ethernet-Network-LAN-DSL-Cat5e-Cat6e-RJ45-RJ11-Cable-Tester-/281491197644

They're very basic 'is this wire crossed' testers, but a handy tool


You'll also want loads of zip ties.

100mm x 2.5mm


I also use a small mini sider cutter, something like this..
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-...=1416961509&sr=8-2&keywords=mini+side+cutters

Great for snipping the core out of CAT6, the zip ties and the cord you sometimes get in cat5e.

--

Don't bother trying to use stranded cable, it's a pain to use and solid core is pennies more..

Solid core means each wire in the cable is only one piece of copper per wire, so there's 8 wires in total.
Stranded means each coloured wire in the cable is made up of many copper cables, harder to get a good connection with it.

Here's a picture of 'stranded' to show you an example

https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2124/1519936011_81a5c93dfe.jpg

----

It's an easy job to do once you get the hang of it :)

I'd recommend getting CCS modules and cable, 25 year warranty and they only list the 568B colour scheme. Some modules will also list the 568A (which no-one ever uses), just confuses things.
 
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Hi bledd. The Cyclops cable stripper can't be delivered and I won't be going to my nearest one but I will be in London this weekend so I'll pick it up from the store I think I'll be nearest to once I've checked with my mate where his hotel is.

I've bought a Krone punchdown tool from eBay which should be here today or tomorrow.

I've already bought that exact crimper from CPC. Ordered at 10pm Friday, delivered on Monday. :)

Just bought both those cable testers and the side cutter.

Been planning to get modules, backplates and cables from Netstoredirect. Is this the right cable? http://www.netstoredirect.com/cat5e-cable/62-excel-cat5e-utp-cable-pvc-outer-sheath.html
 
If the cable is solid core cable, eg structured cabling, which is what it should be for going through the structure of the building then it should be terminated / punched down into a patch panel at one end and a faceplate at the other end.

If you crimp RJ45's onto solid core cable and they are cables which get plugged and unplugged they will likely develop a loose connection in the RJ45. It's also not recommended because the splice pins in the RJ45 can't penetrate the solid cores to make a decent connection.

You should establish whether the network is already using T568A or T568B wiring standards and stick with the same as already in use elsewhere throughout the network.
 
thenewoc said:
If the cable is solid core cable, eg structured cabling, which is what it should be for going through the structure of the building then it should be terminated / punched down into a patch panel at one end and a faceplate at the other end.
Click to expand...
It was. :) I had to cut the plug off at one end to retrieve it from a part of the school that will be inaccessible next week due to building works. The cable I'll be using originally plugged into a wireless point. I plan to re-purpose the cable by wiring it up to a faceplate for a temporary 2 month office workspace. Failing that I'll crimp a plug onto the end of the cable and plug it into a switch I've got going spare.

Is that link from my previous post OK to follow when I confirm what wiring standard the other cables are using?
 
MarcLister said:
OK, bit of a thread revival. :p

Going to need to either crimp an RJ45 plug onto a cable or wire it to a faceplate next week. I have a crimper and a punchdown tool, as per earlier posted advive. Would the following link be a good guide to follow to know where to place each wire?

http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/how-to/network-wifi/3529650/how-wire-ethernet-wall-socket/
Click to expand...

Sort of. The faceplates I use at work have a different arrangement like the one shown on this site: http://www.structuredhomewiring.com/Finishing.aspx

So be sure to also check the faceplate you're using on where each pin goes.
 
Generally yes, some faceplates vary as to how they express the two wiring standards on the back.

T568B would be, looking at rear as in the PC Advisor pic in your link.

left side
white / orange
solid orange
white / green
solid green

right side
solid blue
white / blue
white / brown
solid brown
 
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