New build problem: monitor doesn't get a signal from the computer

PaddyMC89

PaddyMC89

PaddyMC89

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Wall of text I'm afraid.

I'm completely stumped at the moment, and can't find anything online for the same situation. I'll probably have a few questions, but the first thing I need to solve is in the title - how did I lose the signal to my monitor and how do I get it back? I'm going to go into complete detail as I'm desperate to fix this (pretty annoying spending over £1000 and not getting it to work) - if you don't want to read all of the story behind it, just skip to the paragraph beginning **.

Also, a few things: I'm a computer idiot. I can follow diagrams and videos but jargen is lost on me. I don't know how to use BIOS. I don't know what "POST" means. I need things explained very precisely.

So yesterday all the parts came for my computer, I put it all together without too much hassle, booted it up, everything going well, Windows 7 installed, and despite a couple of issues (which I'll come to) I suppose I'd done alright considering it was my first ever time. I started downloading updates for Windows and drivers for my graphics.

Just before I go any further, here are the parts:

Coolermaster 690 II Lite case - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CA-212-CM
Asus Crosshair III motherboard - http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MB-339-AS&tool=3
AMD Phenom II x4 965 CPU - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CP-253-AM
Akasa AK-CCX-4002HP Venom CPU Cooler - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-072-AK
Corsair GX650W PSU (doesn't seem to be on OCUK)
Samsung Spinpoint F3 1TB HDD - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HD-082-SA
Corsair XMS3 4gb (2x2gb) RAM - http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MY-203-CS (I'm aware it says it's only for Intel but in the reviews there are couple of reviews saying it works with AMD, and even one that's using the exact same CPU / Mobo as me)
XFX HD6850 Black Edition GPU (got a second which I plan to crossfire) - http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-189-XF
Samsung SH-B083L 8x BD-ROM with DVD±RW DL & RAM SATA Blu-Ray Drive - OEM Black (not on OCUK)
Samsung P2450H 24" - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=MO-124-SA

...and if it's relevant, a Razer Lycosa keyboard and G500 mouse.

The first of the issues I had is a bit vague really, in that I just wasn't too happy with how fast it was running - for a processor, RAM and GPU thats in the high 7s on Windows Score, I didn't expect it to be slower at loading things like Mozilla and Spotify than my 5 year old Dell, but this could've been solved by updating drivers / Windows 7.

The more pressing issue I had was that my CPU fan was just so loud, and from all the reviews I read when I bought it, it should've been almost silent. I asked in the motherboard section how I'd be able to access controlling the fan, as well as where to get updates as the driver CD that came with it didn't seem to work with Windows 7. I was told how to slow the fan down in the BIOS, which I did (although it didn't seem much quieter), and it was also suggested I update the BIOS from the ASUS website.

**Now here's where I think I did something wrong. Since I don't have a clue how to run things in / update BIOS, I decided to use the Asus Update Utility as it apparently does it while in Windows, and downloaded the Version 1904 ROM file (I don't really understand how the BIOS versions work - I assume 1904 has all the fixes that all the previous ones before it had? I've read that 1003 is the most necessary one for the Phenom II 965 processor to run).

I ran it in the update utility and got to this part of it (this isn't my screenshot, it's from google so ignore the numbers / codes etc): http://www.3dnews.ru/documents/7258/asus_update.jpg. When I ran the Flash it got through the "erase rom" bit alright, then the "flash rom" bit, but it didn't do anything on the "verify rom" and came up with an error, essentially failing the process. I also think I unticked that "Clear CMOS checksum" box and tried it again, with the same result. Nothing bad happened, but at the time I was also downloading some updates for Windows 7 which required me to restart, so I did. And this is the last I saw of it.

The computer itself seems to boot up exactly as normal - all the lights and fans come on. However, the monitor I'm using simply does not detect a signal. Although I have a feeling what I did with the BIOS update is probably the reason, I've still tried many numbers of things, so here's what I've determined isn't the cause:

- It's definitely not the monitor. I tried the monitor with my old pc, and it worked fine. I also tried my old monitor with this new PC and it had the same issue as the other.

- It's not the graphics card, or as far as I can tell the PCI slot. I removed the card, tried it in the slot again, tried my other 6850 that I'm not using, tried my old Nvidia 8800GT, and none of them improved it.

- It's not the DVI cable. I tried using a different one and had the same problem.

- Before this occurred, all the parts seemed to be working fine (other than of course my unsuredness on how fast it was performing), and I'd not tinkered with anything in the case, so I doubt it's faulty hardware.

--- Another thing: I've seen on some other replies to people with similar troubles asking if the speaker on the case beeps to signify 'POST'ing (still no idea what this means), but the CM 690 II lite didn't seem to come with the connectors for it.

I've tried unplugging absolutely everything and putting it together again, and it's still the same. If I have somehow managed to completely screw up the BIOS on my motherboard, is there a way of resetting it? Since I obviously can't view a monitor to install any fixes, how on Earth am I going to get it to work again? As I said, it wasn't performing optimally but it was running at least, and whatever the small issues I had I just assumed that I need to update drivers / fixes to get it all up to speed. At the moment I'm worried I've completely wrecked it by running that update utility and will need a brand new motherboard (or some other component). However, it might not even be that at all - it might even be the update to Windows 7 that prompted me to restart in the first place.

I will be infinitely grateful to anybody willing to suggest anything. There's only so many times I can power off and power on the case before I go mad and chuck it out my window!
 
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Unfortunately it sounds like you "bricked" the motherboard by unsuccessfully updating the BIOS through windows.

A word of warning for next time - never update the BIOS through windows because big problems like this can and do happen- instead installing it via a flash drive before windows startup (ASUS has a utility called EZFLASH 2) is the way to go.

If you would like some easy to understand definitions of computer jargon, have a look over here.

As for what to do next, I suggest contacting the retailer and see if they will let you do a motherboard RMA.

However, just to confirm that this isn't just a display error- do you hear the windows startup sounds through your speakers (you may need to type your windows password in blind) or do you get no output at all?
 
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as andi says there is a very distinct possibility you've bricked the motherboard. tho before bining it you could try clearing the cmos. read your manual and it will tell you how. usually involves bridging a couple of jumpers on the motherboard and/or removing the bios battery for about 10 mins.

edit; i believe that board actually has a clear cmos button on the motherboard.
 
Yep, sounds like BIOS got crapped by that flashing in environment where it should never be done...
though someone at Asus should be shot for even making such flashing program which runs on top of that many layers of bloatware.

Looking from manual and pics of mobo it looks like BIOS chip should be with socket and removable in which case you could search for someone who could flash it.
Some electronic component stores might do it.

PaddyMC89 said:
Corsair GX650W PSU (doesn't seem to be on OCUK)
Click to expand...
You mean this substandard Coolermaster?
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/11/22/cooler_master_gx_650w_power_supply_review/9
 
Thanks for the replies, though you've confirmed my fears. Is reseting the CMOS safe?

I can't seem to find anything in the manual for the board about CMOS, so I don't know where the button would be. There are three buttons on the board that I can see - Start, Reset and MemOK!

There are a couple of pages I've found by searching it in google that tell you how to do it by shorting the jumper or removing and reseating the CMOS battery. Are those safe to do? And how exactly would I "short" the clear cmos jumper?

EsaT said:
You mean this substandard Coolermaster?
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2010/11/22/cooler_master_gx_650w_power_supply_review/9
Click to expand...
Oh right, it is. No idea why I thought it was Corsair... Would you suggest I get a new one? If so, which? The GX650w had full 5 star reviews on another website, but I suppose you guys here know more than people just providing feedback on something they've bought.
 
Resetting the CMOS involves temporarily removing power (battery on the motherboard) from a small memory chip on the motherboard thereby resetting the information within it to factory defaults.You'd lose all changes you'd made in the BIOS itself.Yes it's safe and I believe with that board you'd push the 'reset' button.

However,as this default information seems to have been erased,then resetting it would do nothing.Either the BIOS chip would need removing and re-writing to (not feasible imho) or replacing (tough to do and sometimes the new BIOS chip can cost a fair bit).Some motherboards have a built-in BIOS backup facility..you'd have to check the manual to see if yours does.If it does then resetting the CMOS may help.

If it was me..and in the past it has been me..I'd chalk it up to experience,take it on the chin and buy a new motherboard.Or get someone you know who knows hardware to take a look for you.
 
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Aye, resetting the CMOS is perfectly safe - it just resets the boards to factory defaults.

I just had a look at your manual and the CMOS reset button is the button on the rear IO panel (the one with the USB ports) that has the symbol of a circular arrow pointing anti-clockwise. However, this will need to be enabled by the jumper configuration shown on page 2-25 of the manual. This is the best way to reset the CMOS on your motherboard, I would not suggest trying other methods.

As for the PSU, it really isn't a particularly good one - if you have a read through that "hardocp" review linked to by EsaT you will see why.
 
Usually there's a bit of the BIOS programming that doesn't get overwritten. It's a failsafe part that can recover from a bad flash. I found this in the manual:

Recovering the BIOS

1. Turn on the the system.
2. Insert the motherboard support DVD to the optical drive, or the USB flash containing the BIOS file to the USB port.
3. The utility automatically checks the drvices for the BIOS file. When found, the utility reads the BIOS file and starts flashing the corrupted BIOS file.
4. Turn off the system after the utility completes the updating process and power on again.
5. The system requires you to enter BIOS Setup to recover BIOS setting. To ensure system compatibility and stability, we recommend that you press <F2> to load default BIOS values.

DO NOT shut down or reset the system while recovering BIOS! Doing so can cause system boot failure!
Click to expand...
 
Ah yes, I'm a bit of a fool, found it now. However, the clr CMOS button way requires a working monitor. I just tried it and got nowhere. You need to follow onscreen instructions. edit: as does the method Toughnoodle just posted.

I suppose I'll get in touch with Asus about it. Hopefully they'll fix / replace it, since it was their dodgy utility that seems to have caused it. I've had the thing a day and already I've broken it... :/
 
...and that is how you learn about these things ;) Anyway, I thought newer motherboards came with 2 BIOS'. They're supposed to be able to detect a bad flash (maybe via a checksum) and boot using the 2nd read-only BIOS.

I once flashed a friends motherboard and it wouldn't POST afterwards. I switched it off at the mains and fished around for a replacement. Luckily, I hadn't ordered it because after leaving it unplugged for a few hours something electronically "clicked" and it stared working again. Maybe the tide went out or something?
 
I have the crosshair III as well, the button only works when you enable it in the BIOS. Just unplug the whole system, find the battery which is under the first PCI-E slot, take it out and put it back in after 30 minutes. Then plug the power back in and turn it on.
 
I'll give that a go, and keep my fingers crossed.

Just while I wait, can I also clear up something that'll probably also sound incredibly noobish: in the motherboard I see the slots for the ram are seperated into A1, B1, A2, B2 (the 1's being white and the 2's being blue). I've seen people fit dual rams into the correct slots on intel processors, where it goes white-blue-white-blue, but not AMD - do I put both in the white / blue? Or is it aligned by letter rather than number?
 
You want both RAM sticks in the same colour slots (when using two sticks) ie one in A1, the other in B1 (both blue). A2+B2 (white) will also work.
 
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