New Hardtail - help needed!


Well rather than point out what we are all doing wrong why not give some advice?

The reason I say of a muchness is the fact that bikes of similar price all have similar spec because they source the parts to fit the bikes budget, all £300 bike will have a similar branding and spec as will all £1000 bikes. The big variations only start to come when you custom build or manufacturers use own brand components.

For the £300 bikes components may be of varying brands between different bikes but they will all be of the same spec standard pretty much so for this budget you really are best going for what feels right to sit on and ride for you.
 
............The info given out may as well be nothing. Sorry guys this is just how it comes accross to someone new to this. None of you go into a level of detail about why a £1500 bike is actually better than a £300 one. No it's not obvious. Explain.

To be honest, there's no real need to explain why a £300 hardtail is not as good as a £1500. Its simple.

£300 is simply entry level, end of. All bikes at that price point are pretty much exactly the same quality (components) and very similar geometry wise. It really is a matter of finding some you like the look of and then sitting on them to see if they also feel right size wise. We've already recommended some of the best known bikes at or around that price.

You seemed to have pickjed up on what Ichabod Crane said most, the fact is he is telling the truth, no real need to expand on that. Most everyone elses comments are pretty much bike snobbery.

Yes there is such a thing as too cheap, but a £300 bike will be fine to get anyone started trial riding. My Kraken was fine at Cannock Chase. Most bikes less than £300 are built poorly with low quality parts and shouldn't be considerd if someone wants to ride proper trails. EVER. Too unsafe.
 
Could someone explain the advantages and the finer points of each bike? By no means is the spec identical from looking at the websites.

Could someone also explain just what each thing is, and what the best thing to look for is?

Is second hand an option? If so, what should be coming into my price range?
 
Could someone explain the advantages and the finer points of each bike? By no means is the spec identical from looking at the websites.

Could someone also explain just what each thing is, and what the best thing to look for is?

Is second hand an option? If so, what should be coming into my price range?

Probably best if you did some googling, this is a good start click me It says 2009 but is still applicable to current models as they don't change a lot other than stylings.
 
As I said, at the entry level price point there really are no advatages, at least, not significant ones. The only thing being one maybe slightly better value than another. No one said the spec is identical, just that the quality of components with be much the same.

To humour you :p

Carrera Kraken vs Decathlon Rockrider 5.3

The Kraken is the better bike for the money. Why?

120mm travel forks vs 100mm
Hydraulic Disc brakes vs mechanical disc brakes
Continental Tyres vs Hutchinson
Truvativ IsoFlow Crank vs Suntour (easier to replace if broken)
Kraken is better looking

Everything else is as Ichabod said "much of a muchness"

In answer to your other question, second hand is very good idea, can get some real bargains..
 
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Is travel everything when it comes down to forks, or is there - as I assume, a lot more to it than that?

What difference does the crank used make?

I really do know nothing about bikes, I can repair mine when it breaks but other than that . .
 
Is travel everything when it comes down to forks, or is there - as I assume, a lot more to it than that?

What difference does the crank used make?

I really do know nothing about bikes, I can repair mine when it breaks but other than that . .

Fork travel is dependant on your use if you intend to use the bike for trails as you say then a 120mm would be more beneficial over the 100mm.

Cranks at this price are not going to be amazing just make sure the one you go for has a brand making replacement parts easier.
 
So the question you're really asking is, How do bikes work? :p

Seriously though, more travel isnt everything but it will help over more rough terrain, which is pretty obvious, isn't it? Also, the lock out on the fork is to help you on the flat and when climbing because the bouncing will absorb your energy otherwise.

Cranks. Well I would go for Truvativ over Suntour any day. Just about every single bike shop stocks Truvativ spares, I don't know ANY that stocks Suntour spares. Its that simple.
 
I know -how- bikes work, and can repair them. Why, however, I should chose certain components over others I have no clue ;)

It is, but if the fork has bad damping it could recoil to the extent that it bounces the handlebars out of your hands, correct?
I'll feely admit I didn't know what the lock out did, thanks for telling me :)

Is there anything special or crucial to look for in cranks/forks/gears etc??
 
You're asking questions for a £300 bike you should be asking when buying a £1500+ bike really. The fact the forks move up and down is a bonus on a £300 bike.

At 3-400 quid you'll get 8 speed, be it shimano or SRam - both work well, one with with finger and thumb(shimano) the other uses thumb to shift up and down. DO NOT get a bike with gripshift at this price. Google pictures of the shifters and you'll see how that works. Shimano altus/acera and sram x4 are common at this price.

Wheels....much of a muchness, will be some random alexrim on a formula/shimano/quando hub. Wouldn't look into it too much.

Forks wise it'll be some sort of suntour xcm/xcr you'll get with preload and lockout, does what it says on the tin. Heavy but it works and will lockout for when you need it to.

Brakes will be tektro most likely...auriga/draco and are up to the task of stopping well enough. Hydraulics require less adjustment and are more powerful but do need bled every year or so which you might need a shop to do.

Frame will be aluminium...pick one you like the look of as they are, again, much of a muchness. 6061/7005 series...makes no difference(to do with how it's welded and the heat treating of it).

Tyres...it's good to get a branded tyre at this price as it's something I'd want to upgrade if it was a tioga...continental/schwalbe/maxxis/kenda are brands to look for.

Cranks will mostly all be a triple set up,so three rings, but the bearings they run on can be of different standards. At this price it's likely to be a normal bottom bracket with a square taper, possible a spline(better interface) but you won't find external cupped ones at this price as they are a couple of tiers up spec wise. Brands like suntour/truvativ/fsa/shimano are common at this price. Suntour are pretty cheap £25 for a basic chainset but you can't change chainrings individually whereas the other brands you would be able to swap them out as they use a standard shared between each other.
 
No fork, unless faulty, has bad enough damping to bounce the bars out of your hand unless either a, you're off roading with one hand or b, you're a big girl's blouse - in which case off road riding isnt for you :D

As we've pointed out, the budget you have severely limits you. So it doesn't matter too much what you look for in terms of gears, cranks and forks snd other components, they will mostly be the same. Its only when you startreplacing and upgrading is when you start to look into which crank, fork, reach/front mech is best etc.

Quite simply, for a new bike and £350 you won't get better than the Kraken spec wisey.

Second hand is another story. But that requires time and research.
 
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Gear wise you will be looking at Acera, Altus. Alivio. Avoid Tourney as its poor quality and will forever need adjusting. You might get a token Deore rear mech if you are lucky. Avoid any Hi-Tensile steel frames. It's cheap, heavy and will shake you to pieces.

:)
 
It is, but if the fork has bad damping it could recoil to the extent that it bounces the handlebars out of your hands, correct?

VMTSD.jpg


Is there anything special or crucial to look for in cranks/forks/gears etc??

On a £300 bike, no. Your going to get the bog basic for that price, there will be nothing special, crucial or great about any parts on it. Spend as much money as you can afford if your going to take this seriously, out of the two bikes mentioned I'd get the Carrera as it has 20mm more travel and hydraulic discs.
 
I can easily extend the budget, however having never done this before I'm not sure if I'll actually like it or have the time to get into it in any great degree with Uni just round the corner - hence the beginners trails. I'd like to keep costs down for this reason, but it's not as though I can't be flexible. Should I find myself advancing and enjoying it then I'll have no qualms upgrading or spending significantly more.

As stated in the OP, if there are any good review sites or sites with information explaining what I've been asking about I'd happily trawl through them rather than trouble you.

By all means, link away and I'll be out of your hair. Hard to find sites when I'm not sure what I should be looking for ;)

Time, at the moment is the major shortcoming as I'm in the middle of my A2s.

EDIT: Rather than continually referencing the £300 budget and hence there is "nothing to know", and it's "all much of a muchness" could you explain the advantages of certain specs over others, regardless of budget so I know what's important and the best features for said parts? Principally so I don't have to trouble you all so much at a later date.
 
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As previously posted. Bikeradar is a good place to start. But be wary of all the kids saying omgz my Specialized hard rock is amazing...etc..

To have a basic understaning of what is what. Look at the Shimano Wiki:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shimano

Bike mags frequently do budget bike reviews. Something like MBR would be a good buy.

As vague and unhelpful "all much of a muchness" sounds, it's actually very true. Components at this price level are very basic and you won't notice much gains between one bike and the other in terms of performance. What sounds good on paper might actually ride horribly. Find a review of a bike online that you like the look of, or even better find a good local bike shop and try some bikes out for size. It's not until you start riding that you appreciate what is good and what isn't, then you start disagreeing with half the reviews you have read.

If you stick with the big brands like Trek, Specialized, Giant etc..then you can't go wrong.
 
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