New mid-range desktop c. £1100

Shall do! I met them half-way on the token of good will and added a Noctua NH-U12S heatsink to make up some of the refund difference.

I'm sure the 3600 Ryzen doesn't need it, but I'm also aware that the smaller case needs quite a lot of air shifting through it. Plus my thinking was more fans = less rpm = less noise (correct me if I'm wrong!)

Due to the particular GPU I got being so big, I don't know if I'll be able to use the 2x 120mm bottom tray yet, even with slimline fans. So the single-fan, smaller form factor heatsink should help air to shift around.

I'm also trying to avoid all RGB so the stock AMD cooler had to go at some point ;)
 
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InKursion said:
Shall do! I met them half-way on the token of good will and added a Noctua NH-U12S heatsink to make up some of the refund difference.

I'm sure the 3600 Ryzen doesn't need it, but I'm also aware that the smaller case needs quite a lot of air shifting through it. Plus my thinking was more fans = less rpm = less noise (correct me if I'm wrong!)

Due to the particular GPU I got being so big, I don't know if I'll be able to use the 2x 120mm bottom tray yet, even with slimline fans. So the single-fan, smaller form factor heatsink should help air to shift around.

I'm also trying to avoid all RGB so the stock AMD cooler had to go at some point ;)
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would have gone for shadow rock - new standard for £35-45 coolers . heatsink ooffset to use all 4 dimm slots;

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/be-quiet-shadow-rock-3-high-performance-cpu-cooler-hs-01h-bq.html

or a little more

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/be-quiet-dark-rock-4-cpu-cooler-hs-01d-bq.html

did you go Gaming OC 2.5 slot or Aorus 3 slot?
 
Aorus 3 slot.

I can't pretend to have the foggiest about fans. Noctua were the way to go 10 years ago and I like that they've updated their range in black. Having the matching set was sadly a higher priority than getting absolute best performance. I'm sure that's irritating but I've been a Mac user for the last decade. It wears off on you :p

Also, doesn't the mini-ITX mobo only have 2 DIMM slots?
 
InKursion said:
Aorus 3 slot.

I can't pretend to have the foggiest about fans. Noctua were the way to go 10 years ago and I like that they've updated their range in black. Having the matching set was sadly a higher priority than getting absolute best performance. I'm sure that's irritating but I've been a Mac user for the last decade. It wears off on you :p

Also, doesn't the mini-ITX mobo only have 2 DIMM slots?
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yes, why youi hasve 32gb ;)

overkill for now but 2-3 years ....

noctuua still damn good
 
First question -- is the Aorus B450 going to recognise and work with the Ryzen 3600? I have no way to flash the BIOS if it doesn't :)
 
InKursion said:
First question -- is the Aorus B450 going to recognise and work with the Ryzen 3600? I have no way to flash the BIOS if it doesn't :)
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Few members have bought the board from OCUK and works fine .
Normally has a sticker on it stating it's ryzen 3000 ready.
With how long Ryzen 3000 has been out and amount of these boards sold. Should have flash to handle the chip. Goes out of stock regularly on here .
 
Perfect! Serves me right for Googling in advance of owning the gear ... :)

Do you have any advice about the best way to go about setting up/migrating Windows 10?

What's the best way to go about it w/r/t motherboard and GPU drivers, etc?

Install the new hard-drive but boot to my old SSD first? Run an OS migration tool from there to the fresh, unformatted M.2? Then reboot into M.2 and begin cleaning old display and motherboard drivers, before installing the new ones?
 
InKursion said:
Perfect! Serves me right for Googling in advance of owning the gear ... :)

Do you have any advice about the best way to go about setting up/migrating Windows 10?

What's the best way to go about it w/r/t motherboard and GPU drivers, etc?

Install the new hard-drive but boot to my old SSD first? Run an OS migration tool from there to the fresh, unformatted M.2? Then reboot into M.2 and begin cleaning old display and motherboard drivers, before installing the new ones?
Click to expand...

if your cloning drive. Get the main one installed with latest drivers etc , then detect and format new drive and clone .
Remove old drive , and then clear old drivers from the new drive .

Run DDU Disk Driver Uninstaller before installing new GPU drivers
 
Yep, short staffed I believe. Not worth risking it! The order was printed yesterday but it's still at 'received' stage. I'll do my usual thing of watching every YT vidya and reading every thread with the slightest hint of relevance ... :)
 
InKursion said:
Yep, short staffed I believe. Not worth risking it! The order was printed yesterday but it's still at 'received' stage. I'll do my usual thing of watching every YT vidya and reading every thread with the slightest hint of relevance ... :)
Click to expand...

that video in page one should help :)

few youtubes and you should be fine :D
 
nice build you've ordered inkursion. as orbital pointed out prices/deals change every Wednesday shame but at least ocuk helped with a good will gesture. the guys at ocuk have helped me no end in the past with faulty goods and other stuff when buying and builds for my clients :)
 
Why thank you! and thanks to OCUK, also, for making it happen ;)

I'm done with the build and have a few comments about it ... I'll get some pictures up soon.

Some first questions:

- My last processor was an Intel i5 650. I've just swapped over the SSD from that one to this fresh AMD machine. Do I really need to do a complete fresh install? I'd lose a lot of work-related apps, not to mention perhaps my Win 10 license which I've been squatting on for years since they gave the free upgrade. Is this just an old superstition at this point; can Windows Update seamlessly patch between one chipset and another?

- Likewise, I notice the BIOS for this b450 Ryzen stuff is updated a lot. The recent flash revision notes talk about improvements in compatibility with PCI-E and M.2 -- both of which I obviously use now -- as well as various game performance tweaks (e.g. Destiny 2). Is it worth going through the effort of flashing my BIOS up to the latest version now, before I start installing loads of stuff on the computer and cluttering it? Or do I really only need to bother with this if it's throwing my BSOD and errors?

Thanks guys!
 
Personally, would update it and that's it , till they start dropping Zen3 updates. Latest should be the best performing all around . Once you've done that and set up, leave it be !

Would just keep same windows if you want , maybe clone it over and driver updates etc . Do a bit of house keeping and delete stored older versions of Windows 10 updates (can take up to 60GB of space !!!)

Looking forward to the snaps !

You'll see a MASSIVE increase from First Gen i5 !
To be honest, biggest increase of performance intel did was from 1st Gen i Core to 2/3rd in terms of just raw performance for a core . We now have more cores but performance per core hasn't increased that much bar clock speed.
If you used your old GPU, you'd notice about 10 FPS increase alone !
 
Thanks again for the advice. I've flashed the BIOS now and all seems to be well.

I'll post some pictures up when my extra dust mesh and fan header splitter cables turn up this week. I've only got half the fans in the case at the moment. Someone looked at the non-ITX version of the mobo website when figuring out how many fan headers they'd have ... :)

In general I think there's something dinky with the AMD drivers/GPU. In any game that requires GPU the fans pretty quickly insist on going to top rev if left on automatic. I can set-up my own fan curve and keep the card at 50-70 degrees easily in a game, but the junction sensor does not play nice. If I uncap FPS in any game (and some of them don't have consoles which support it), the GPU junction temperature will race to 110 degrees and hang out there. I've had a few black screens in cases where I don't give enough fan to keep the rest of the die cool. Is it really OK for the new 7 nm cards to run this hot? My options seem to be to keep a manual fan curve that keeps GPU current temps < 80 whilst the junction temp scorches at 110, or give the full 3-fans a lot of throttle and listen to a jet-cooler the entire time I'm playing.

Even in World of Warcraft: Classic -- a 15 year old game! -- with the FPS capped at 125, the GPU fans on auto are going at like 60-70%. It's a helluva noise. If I can't figure it out with drivers/chipset changes I think I'm going to opt for Nvidia.

Another good example is the in-game menus in CS:Go or Apex. They are terribly optimized, I know, and basically use 99% of the graphics card as if they're a video benchmark. I have to force the menu FPS using source engine's console to stop the machine from hard resetting/blackscreening. I'd get to the end of a CS:GO round with reasonable temps, then the scoreboard would come up, 99% GPU lock in, and the junction temps straight off the 110+ degree cliff ...
 
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