New to WC; Prebuild upgrade

TnBDelta

TnBDelta

TnBDelta

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Joined
24 Feb 2017
Posts
39
Location
United Kingdom
Hi all complete novice here,

I would like to premise my request for advice with some background information.

Usually, I would build my own AIO WC PCs, however as you can probably imagine I went with a prebuild this time around and here are the specifications:


CASE: Lian-Li PC-O11 Dynamic XL

CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 5900X - 12-Core 3.70GHz, 4.8GHz Turbo

CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken Z73 360mm

FANS: 6x Corsair SP120 (Bottom intake, top exhaust on rad).

MEMORY: 32GB (4x8GB) DDR4/3600mhz Dual Channel Memory

MOTHERBOARD: MSI MPG X570 Carbon wifi

PSU: Corsair HX850 850W

GPU: MSI GeForce® RTX 3080 SUPRIM X


My original idea was to buy the PC through ************ and have them install the Lian-Li loop shown on their site with this configuration, but due to a 4 month wait on 3080’s I went ahead with a different vendor. Originally I would have purchase the WC pre-installed in this configuration


Radiators: EK-CoolStream PE 360 X2

Pump + Reservoir: EK-011D Distro Plate G1

CPU Block: EK-Velocity – Nickel + Plexi

GPU Block: EK Vector

Clear, hard line tubing (16mm/??)

Liquid: EK-Cryofuel Blue


I’m not entirely happy with how loud the system is with the fans often ramping up to 100% due to the 5900X; I’ve been tweaking the fan curves in CAM and checking temps in HWInfo and I’m wondering if aside from a quieter build what the temps would be like and if its even worth a custom loop considering the Z73 is 360mm already. I’ve never custom WC’d before but its always been something I’ve wanted to do and with the introduction of the EK-011D I figured if I was going to try it would be for this build.

The 5900X temps are anywhere between 50c-60c idle and under load 80-85c, The GPU when rendering (Octane) for around 20/25 minutes is around 60-75c. It’s a shame OcUK doesn’t sell a kit with the Lian-li distro plate for noobs like me but I figured this is the best place to ask for advice.

So my questions are the following:
  1. Does anyone a water-cooled similar configuration to mine and what kind of temps are you reading from the 5900X?
  2. Based off what I would have ended buying from ************ is there any recommended item list for the O11 XL (Given it has been quite popular)?
  3. Should I stick with the EK-011D or should to the PC-011D XL D5?
    Links:

    https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lian...iquid-cooling-designed-by-ekwb-wc-001-ll.html

    https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...d-rgb-distribution-plate-plexi-wc-9yn-ek.html

  4. 4. Is switching the EK-CoolStream PE 360’s (38mm) to the (60mm) worthwhile? (Currently out of stock)
  5. Aside from a heat-gun what size tubing and fittings would be recommended for a newbie like me to use? I would like to hard-line tube it, even though I know how difficult its probably going to end up being for somebody new to it!
Shopping List:

Radiators:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...eam-pe-360-triple-fan-radiator-wc-488-ek.html (X2)

Pump/Res:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...d-rgb-distribution-plate-plexi-wc-9yn-ek.html

GPU Block:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...d-rgb-water-block-nickel-plexi-wc-a2k-ek.html

CPU Block:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...4-cpu-water-block-nickel-plexi-wc-9xp-ek.html


Tubing:


Fittings:


Liquid:

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...mix-watercooling-fluid-1-litre-wc-9pb-ek.html


Thanks for any advice. :)
 
MikeTimbers said:
On the components you've linked to, nothing wrong with those. personally I like to overspecify the rads and use cheaper lower power fans.

As for your existing temperatures and noise, the SP120 fans can be loud. Your fans are ramping because your temps are quite high IMO. 50C at idle seems a hell of a lot. But then I know Ryzen can be quite toasty. I don't have any but it's worth checking your BIOS settings are right as I believe there are tricks to get idle temps down and also boost voltage.

But don't be surprised if your pre-built wasn't done very well. Can you feel the air coming out the top? Is it hot? Do you have any pics?
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,

Regarding the WC Components would it be easier to use 90 degree fittings to avoid tube bending as much as possible? I know the case can handle 60mm top/bot radiators so I'll probably wait until they come back in stock.

The prebuild is definitely pushing out a lot of hot air; especially because I was running it without the XL's top on (exposing the top dust filter) no pics because I'm @ work right now. I had it under my desk and under load it acts as a mini-heater lol. :)

First thing I did since it was delivered was go through a basic inspection of the rig and did fix a missing Z73 locking screw. I've had multiple missing things delivered; The cable management bar for the case and the original x3 Z73 fans.

It certainly is much toastier than my 1800X which after 2 years of neglect still idles at 32c.
 
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MikeTimbers said:
When planning fittings and tube runs think very carefully about where you need to go from and to for each one. Having some rotatable 90 and 45 degree connectors is always handy. 90 degree bends at the end of a tube are hard to get right I believe and that's where having options for the fittings will help.
Click to expand...

Thanks for your advice; I figured I'd go mostly 90 degree connectors. The idea being to keep it as simple as possible; ideally matching this:

https://lian-li.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/12/g1-03.jpg

** Do Not Hotlink Images **
 
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I've finally got around to actually starting purchasing some of the parts for this build update. Will buy two of the PE 360's today.

@sepulchre; Are you referring to this leak tool? (https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-leak-presure-testing-tool-wc-9vu-ek.html).

Also there appears to be a 4.2 DDC pump on the EKWB website, is this what was being referred to?
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-classic-dp-side-pc-o11d-g1-d-rgb-ddc-4-2-pwm

Or would it be the reflection?
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-w...d-rgb-distribution-plate-plexi-wc-9yn-ek.html

Edit:

This is a bit random but giving the tube pathways to the G1 Res, has anyone tried using a custom front plate to see if they can fit a single front-intake in the middle of the top/bottom reservoir inlets? I've not measured it but it doesn't look like they'd be enough clearance.
 
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Small update, this is what I've bought/ordered so far:
  • EK Water Blocks EK-CoolStream PE 360 (Triple Fan) Radiator (2)
  • EK Water Blocks EK-HD PETG Tube 12/16mm 1000mm (2pcs) - Clear
  • EK Water Blocks EK-CryoFuel Solid Azure Blue 1L Premix Watercooling Fluid - 1 Litre
  • EK Water Blocks EK-Loop Modulus Hard Tube Bending Tool - 16mm
  • EK Water Blocks EK-HD Tube Reamer
  • Monsoon Hardline Pro Heatgun UK Version
  • EK Water Blocks EK Leak / Presure Testing Tool
  • EK Water Blocks Filling Bottle (1000mL)
  • IFIXIT Essential Electronics ToolKit V2
  • EK Water Blocks EK-Quantum Torque HTC 16mm Hard Tubing Fitting - Black (X14) - Might have bought a couple too many here, but i figured it might be useful to have a couple spare.
  • EK Quantum Vector GPU Block (And backplate)
  • EK-QUANTUM MAGNITUDE D-RGB AM4 CPU WATER BLOCK - NICKEL + PLEXI
  • Bitspower Hard Tube Silicone Bending for ID 12mm for 16mm Tubing

Left to buy:
  • PUMP / RESS Combo










 
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I'm still undecided as to what to do about the pump / combo res, stuck between either the side (G1) or the front distro plate, not entirely too keen on the front-end due to price!

Additionally I'm considering vertically mounting the GPU. There are two riser/mount options on the OcUK store, is the only difference Gen3 vs Gen4? Would it be worth spending the extra £20 for Gen4?

https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lian...ket-kit-for-pc-o11d-rog-series-ca-77p-ll.html
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/lian...d-pc-slot-cover-pcie-4.0-black-ca-793-ll.html

Finally, any ideas which 90 degree / rotatory fittings would look / fit alright with my 16mm HTC compression fittings?
 
Hmm, thanks for the advice. It is a shame that OcUK doesn't stock the latest version of the distro, I did send in a WebNote asking if/when they would stock it. In the mean-time, I think I'll just get the PCIE Riser + some extra fittings until I hear some feedback; I don't really want to pay 20-40% customs fees ordering it directly from EKWB after all the idea is choosing it was to save money! :)
 
Hi all,

Finally getting around to having time to install all these parts. The only remaining things I've got to order are some extra tubing. Edit: Do I need to get some EK plugs for the unused fill port when I've filled the ress?
 
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I've ordered just the one. I won't need anymore than that because I'm using the G1 and dual PE 360 rads, Also got a drain-valve ready and way too many extra fittings and 90c rotaries should my tube bending go bad. lol
 
Hi all,

Progress update; I've got top and bottom rad in and them plumbed in but I'm struggling with the tubing for the GPU. I've already tried and failed to bend the tubing 3 times now. :-(

CPU is in and plumbed in, not exactly pretty but it works.

Does anyone have any tips for the GPU tubing? I've only got a couple of rotaries, 90' degree fittings and standard fittings left (I'll have to order some more tomorrow)

Progress-05.jpg


The GPU is slightly sagging so I've removed it for the time being until more fittings arrive..
 
Update; Managed to get the GPU tubing in. Running the leak test threw up an unexpected leak from the CPU-Out to Distro-In piping.

That leak aside there also appears to be one slow-leak on the rotary used on the G1 Distro plate:



Progress-05.jpg
 
The slow leak is coming from the upper rotary. I'm hoping I can just gently adjust the rotation of it to stop the leak. Fortunately I've got another pack of tubing and a couple of fittings (and replacement o-rings) coming tomorrow (hopefully) so i can try to fix the CPU leak and perhaps the GPU line.

Progress-6.jpg
 
Haz123 said:
OK first a disclaimer. I am no expert and I found it difficult to get the tubes right but here are a couple of things I did that I felt like helped.

The main thing I did with simple 90 degree bends was to use the table corner as a 90 degree and not use a mold. This allowed for tighter curves that I preferred the look of. I also did the bend first making sure I had at least an inch extra of length on each run and then I would carefully take of little pieces at a time until it was the correct length. I bought an adjustable pipe cutter from a local hardware store for a fiver and that was so much easier than a hacksaw. When it was just a mm or 2 off I would sand it till it was correct then clean up the end

With your cpu block is it not possible to remove and rotate the centre square portion so that the inlet outlet are vertically aligned? This would make it easier and cleaner to link to the distro plate. The distro plate can also be loosened and slid up and down to align it how you like (or at least I could in my case) and get cleaner runs. If you slid the distro plate up you would need to redo the bottom links from rad to distro but you could just shorten the top ones like I described above. Make sure you are using the correct port for inlet and outlet on that cpu block , it does apparently matter.

With the gpu you can use one of the top ports for inlet/outlet if it makes the run easier. You can also go direct from the gpu to cpu and not use that section of the distro plate but that may not be the look you are going for.

Here are pics of mine, easier to show rather than try and explain.





I used a fair few offsets and 90 degree bends and this made my task a lot easier. For a first time I would advise trying to make it as easy as possible

My advice would be. Rotate cpu block orientation then slide distro plate up and look at it again and see how it all lines up. Then order new offsets, if needed, to make runs as straight as possible. I had to change mobo just before xmas and had to redo all my runs. It took me around 3 hours and I only got one wrong when I took too much off and had to redo it. Take your time thinking and try to simplify the runs

Oh yeah. Pressure test tool is a great addition. If it is air tight then it is 99% certain to be water tight so I would get one of those if I was you.

Edit - When you heat the tubing it obviously deforms and if the bend where heat was applied is too close to the fitting then it may not be a perfect join. You want to keep the bends as far away from the fittings as you can so they are a perfect fit and water tight. The run from bottom rad to distro plate has bend very close to the fitting so I hope it is ok. If you redo the runs from cpu block to distro then keep this in when you do them.
Click to expand...

Hi Haz123,

Firstly thanks for taking the time to respond with pics and detailed info.

It never really occurred me I could simply not use the mold /facepalm and instead use other hard surfaces for the bends, I'll give that a go when I get some more tubing tomorrow.

The CPU block I'm using is the EK Magnitude AM4 Block and from the manual (and a quick online search) it doesn't appear that I can rotate it 90 degrees, only 180 which isn't much help. With the first four front-tubes perfect I'd like to avoid moving the Distro (I wish I'd aligned it better in the first place!). The bottom GPU line is perfect and so is the remaining CPU one, The reason why I put both runs down there was to actually stop the GPU from tilting downwards any further and act as somewhat of a support. I will leave both in place, but just fix the angled upper GPU run to stop the rotary leak and for the CPU run it just needs be re-done but just a hair longer in length so ensure that both ends go into the fittings perfectly straight.

I've got lots of little bits of tubing where I cut it down slowly, but the one issue I had using the mold was that the tube itself would angle coming out the mold because the mold was used on top of my desk surface and me, being the idiot I am only supported the rest of the tubing with my finger...Thinking that the fittings would be a bit more flexible.. /facepalm.

The additional fittings I've got coming will enable to me break one of the runs into two if needed (female to female connector) or put in another 90'degree angle somewhere. I did buy and try to use the EK pressure testing kit but I think mine was DoA (Too busy at the moment to double check).

Both the lower GPU and front-lower-rad runs are indeed snuck and close with the bends but fortunately they both straighten out as they go into the fitting hence no leaks, but duly noted.

Once again, thanks for your advice and hopefully my next post will be it fixed! >:-)
 
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