Noisy Turbo!?
- Thread starter MikeHunt79
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What would you consider a proper one?
Who said anything about flapping about with the gears? By changing up higher, you start the next gear at higher rpm.
Soldato
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depends on the gearing, obviously.
When a turbo gets worn the shaftmoves around more and can often lead to the compressor wheel touching the casing, causing a screeching sound, the beginning of the end. If it is this and not a leak of some kind, get it changed soon. Otherwise when it does go it will spit its internals right down the intake.
That is why you use all the revs...
If you don't, you must be a hugely unenthusiastic driver.
28% transmission losses????
Thats BS tbh
Did he do the roll down with the handbrake on?
PS, not criticising the car, just the dyno chart
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Because I was giving it some beans... NSL road and I wanted to get up to speed.
Cheers, this car is a K plate so is around 17 years old now, so I imagine the hoses aren't going to be in mint condition.
The turbo is a pain to get to however, they've really shoehorned the engine in!Cheers, I'll check my oil level, I only changed the oil 1000 miles ago so if it's too low I know it's using more oil than it should.
I did the intake mod ages ago (I cut a piece of plastic out of the grill), it did increase the turbo whistle a little, but it's definitely got louder since then.
I don't normally take the engine to 4000rpm, only now and then, and the old XUD engines have a more linear delivery of power compared to newer HDI engines, it's more "petrol like" to drive but often it's just as fast to change up early in the higher gears. I was told diesels need a good thrashing to stop the injectors getting blocked, tho they may be an urban myth.
getting to the intake pipe is a real pain, I may have to wait until next week as there is barely any room around the engine.
I've got a Magic Arm and camera, if it doesn't rain tomorrow, I'll get some videos and put 'em up on youtube. Is it legal to drive with no bonnet?My one always used to give some turbo whistle and slight flutter
Sounds to me like you've got a boost leak or something dodgy going on with the exhaust though.
If a turbo goes, it goes... or if its on its way out the its likely to burn oil which you'll see
Stick up the sound recording please, I sold my 205 2 years ago, and miss the sound!
I know of a scappy with a Rover with the same engine as mine, so I can get another turbo cheaply, but it's an hour drive away and I don't want to drive all that way if I don't have to.
If the turbo does go, I guess it's best not to drive it anywhere, or could I drive it if I kept topping the oil up? I think I'm gonna check I've got breakdown cover to be on the safe side...
I don't redline it all the time, and if I do I only do it when it's up to temperature.
I'm guessing 90k is a good innings for a turbo after hearing about 530's and 330's blowing turbos at around 100k?
not every derv is created equal, drive a non-hdi 306 TD ot 205TD (with lucas pump) and rev it to the redline, it keeps pulling up to the limiter.
I do normally take it stady for the first and last 3 miles, I live in a 30 zone and I don't go tearing around my area as it's always busy junctions...
No, 3995.
Its also worth mentioning, that my 205 TD had over 180,000 miles on the clock and to my knowledge was still on its original turbo.
It's a very simple engine, I think the turbo is the most high tech thing on it! That's good to know tho, maybe my exhaust has a hole instead, I think it does infact have the original exhaust and manifold, not bad for a 17 year old car. Most of the time, I'm stuck in traffic or on the motorway... but I do live pretty near some NSL roads so I do give it some beans every now and then if I'm not stuck behind someone.My point was if you're not sensible about it- I dont know how the OP drives...
I don't drive flat out all the time, but I don't drive like a Sunday driver either.
This car is no way fast btw, my friends Mi16 makes it look like it's standing still, the book figure is 75BHP after all!
Still, in a car that weighs around 800kg, it can be a fun car to drive (believe it or not!). 
That sounds bad! I'll get a vid asap, hopefully I can get decent sound also, and with any luck it will show if it's screeching or not.
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You would know if its dying, it would make a screechlike noise aka "whine of death"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyO3aJ-OrAc
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TyO3aJ-OrAc
Soldato
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That's not the transmission losses, it's the losses in the transmission, plus the wheels against the rollers (how hard was it clamped down), and the rollers to the sensors.
Most will last considerably longer than 100k as long as a few essential things are done during its life.
A couple of examples....
1, The engine is allowed to tickover for a minute or so prior to switch off, this helps the turbo cool and is rarely done by most drivers imo.
2, Regular oil changes with quality oil.
FWIW, in the few situations where I have encountered turbo failure, usually they do get noisier prior to going pop. The last time one died on me was an 02 Reg Scania 94D 300 which started to whistle loudly but the biggest clue to impending doom was lots of smoke from the exhaust, when it did go bang it scared the crap out of some poor sod alongside me!
I'd be interested to know if many people do this, and if so how they work it into their driving routine.
I always let mine warm up before I use full boost (my journey to work out of town through traffic before joining the m5 makes this easy), but when I arrive at work or back home I stop the car and get out.
Do people actually sit there with the engine idling doing nothing when they arrive places?
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lets say his turbo is knackered then, i doubt its the OP fault for sometimes going up to 4k rpm, i would say that the car has had a tough 90.000 miles, like any 2nd hand car you would never know how well it was treated.
People who really understand turbo's and the importance of letting them cool down let them idle before switch off, or people who have had the expense of a new turbo and learned the lesson.
The turbo is bolted to the hottest part of the engine- the exhaust manifold, oil goes in and lubricates a shaft that can spin over 100,000 rpm on a thin film of oil, it does get stressed. When the engine is stopped, the oil stops circulating but the heat is still there for a long time and the turbo is still spinning. If the car has been used hard, the exhaust gets very hot and if the oil is not circulating it actually boils inside the bearings of the turbo, it crystalises and ruins the turbo bearings very quickly.
Running the engine allows fresh oil to circulate and gives the turbo time to cool enough, as well as allowing the turbo to return to it's "idle" speed. Switch the engine straight off and the turbo is still spinning fast with no oil supply.
When a turbo does let go the huge amount of smoke is caused by the oil and coolant in the turbo getting fed into the engine and burned. The danger is if any parts inside the turbo- compressor vanes, end up down the inlet, they destroy valves and embed themselves into pistons. If you are lucky they will get trapped inside the intercooler.
Letting the turbo cool down and regular oil changes are the key to turbo life.
The turbo is bolted to the hottest part of the engine- the exhaust manifold, oil goes in and lubricates a shaft that can spin over 100,000 rpm on a thin film of oil, it does get stressed. When the engine is stopped, the oil stops circulating but the heat is still there for a long time and the turbo is still spinning. If the car has been used hard, the exhaust gets very hot and if the oil is not circulating it actually boils inside the bearings of the turbo, it crystalises and ruins the turbo bearings very quickly.
Running the engine allows fresh oil to circulate and gives the turbo time to cool enough, as well as allowing the turbo to return to it's "idle" speed. Switch the engine straight off and the turbo is still spinning fast with no oil supply.
When a turbo does let go the huge amount of smoke is caused by the oil and coolant in the turbo getting fed into the engine and burned. The danger is if any parts inside the turbo- compressor vanes, end up down the inlet, they destroy valves and embed themselves into pistons. If you are lucky they will get trapped inside the intercooler.
Letting the turbo cool down and regular oil changes are the key to turbo life.
My silvia has a turbo timer on it for this very purpose
Not too sure that it is required that much if your turbo is water cooled though, a cool down drive on your last part of the journey is usually ok
As for the noise on your turbo, most probably a gasket, if the blades were touching the casing it would be dead by now
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I have changed the oil every 5000 miles, and I've used Chevon oil which I assume is an OK brand?
I'm just about to go and get a video, would it be better to mount the mic near the air intake or on top the bonnet above the exhaust manifold in order to get the best sound or shall i try both?
I'm just about to go and get a video, would it be better to mount the mic near the air intake or on top the bonnet above the exhaust manifold in order to get the best sound or shall i try both?
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After playing around with the Magic arm, the only decent mounting point I can use it on the front bumper by the numberplate, so it's going to have to be near the air intake... hopefully it won't just be tractor noises!
For the last few miles of the journey I drive below the turbo boost RPM, if I have time il sit in the car for 30secs or so idling.
The redline is there to protect the engine/turbo
Doesn't mean you won't do more damage at 4,000 rpm than 2,000 rpm. Just means that they've decided 4,500 rpm (or whatever the limiter might be) is the point at which excessively more damage is done to the turbo for comparably little gain in power.
Disclaimer: this post contains BS
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Having a quick read through the thread I saw about Iaind's comments about 4000rpm. For his benefit here is a dyno chart of an old diesel engine (ford tddi), one that will have more similar characteristics to the 205 engine then a modern common-rail diesel which I assume he has in his mondeo:
Power all the way to just before max rpm (needs to be taken right up there to actually move with that amount of power though
)
Power all the way to just before max rpm (needs to be taken right up there to actually move with that amount of power though
)
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