Not a good day of DIY

Concrete

Concrete

Concrete

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8 Jan 2007
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So was going to replace the front springs on the IS300 today, seemed like a fairly easy process but I have never had so many things to wrong in one session..

Both sides of the drop links use allen keys to prevent the ball joint from rotating while you undo it, both rounded, cut the first one off but couldn't be arsed to do the second one today. Will get new ones ordered in.

Couldn't get the tiny 12mm bolt behind the shock undone on either side, one is now rounded.

Tore a ball joint gaiter on the top arm, which will now need to be replaced . . nightmare.

Gave up in the end, any advice on how to shift the 12mm bolts? Got to get them out somehow but damned if I know how, probably going to resort to some form of mobile mechanic on this one.
 
Couple of options:

1) Try and brute force an 11mm, cheap socket on then use an impact gun or big long bar to undo.

2) Buy a set of Irwin (or similar) Bolt extrator sockets - they basically bite into the rounded head, destroying it but also removing it. Similar to above tbh but much less effort on your part

3) Cut it

4) weld a good one to it (never personally done it as I can't weld but seen it done)
 
The little hex sockets on drop links never provide enough torque to undo the nut! The only reliable fix I have found is to (carefully) head it up nice and hot with an oxy torch and then cool it down by spraying WD40 on it, after that the nut unscrews easily but of course the link is scrap!

Can you safely apply heat to the 12mm Nuts? Heat always works!

(EM Inductive tools are coming on to the market that can do this much more safely than using gas but they are still quite expensive and not that many workshops will have them)
 
Similar happened on my droplinks, I just hacked them in half made it much easier removing them! My steering alignment was ****** after it though! guess I was a little rough, it needed doing anyway so no biggy.
 
Ouch. Days like that come up from time to time and can make you really question why you bother with cars at all :D

do you have access to impact tools? they can be fantastic for getting rusted stuff off, 11mm brute force approach sounds like a good one too
 
Cheers guys, good to know I'm not the only one who has trouble, the ones on the E36 weren't a problem but these were a pain.

No access to heat or welding, going to buy an impact driver this week and have another go at it as it will have been soaking in penetrating fluid. Hopefully that should help.

Problem with the 12mm bolt is accessibility, otherwise I would hammer a 11mm onto it, I've had to do the process a few times with locking wheel nuts and with a little filling its very effective. Has anyone used 'wobble' bars to get better access?

The bolt extractors look like a good shout, has anyone had any success with them?
 
If I need to work on something which is likely to be seized I put some Plus Gas Formula 'A' on it. Leave it 30 mins and come back to it. Resulting to brute force will normally either round the bolt head or shear the bolt. This then gives you a bigger problem to solve by either replacing parts or using a helicoil.
 
I've got a couple but tbh never had much need for them, anywhere a bit hard to reach I either just use a shorter extension or a ratchet spanner and hammer if need be

You could try an impact gun and UJ but I highly doubt it'd work
 
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Hi there,

I have regularly had similar problems doing suspension work as yourself. Just a couple of tips for next time.

- Any job that involves removing drop links - buy replacements they are cheap and often break
- Even if there is an alan head in the drop link many still have flats for a spanner on the back. Pull back the boot or feel for them.
- WD40 everything.. liberally.. and go have a coffee before starting
- Wire brush rusty nuts and ensure socket is as far on as humanly possible
- If you can borrow an electric impact wrench it makes working on suspension a whole lot easier
- Any job that involves removing ball joints.. a) be prepared to loose the boot if you have to split using a crude ball joint spliter b) Once the nut is off the ball joint hammer what the ball joint goes through. Most of the time the ball joints are on a taper fit and will free up with a couple of firm hits. And remember more weighty hammer = more force

I realise the above may seem like hindsight now. But I have been spannering for years with all of the problems you've described and I totally feel your pain.

Most important point is try to dismantle everything prior to 4pm saturday. This way if you do break anything you have time to go to euro car parts and get a replacement (If they have it on the shelf)

Best of luck next time!

Kind Regards

Alec
 
I have this http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench

It's ace on anything that's hard to budge and when it's not it's time and energy saving.

Volvo suspension (not mine) just spun the allen key hole and with a normal spanner, put that on and it took it off straightaway, no messing.

Brilliant invention impact wrenches, i wanted a cheap but good one, battery wasn't an option as they just don't have the torque, so went with the mains version.:D
 
When changing the front coils on my brothers Mondeo I had to hammer on a socket AND weld the booger on, then use an impact gun to get the darn bolt out (bottom of McPhearson strut)
 
I had a similar problem with drop links this weekend as I've been trying to put new shocks, springs and top mounts on. Couldn't get the drop links off normally so I took an angle grinder to them, I bought new drop links a few months ago so I wanted to change them anyway :p

Then it got even worse as the spring compressors I was using, although man enough to compress the springs, couldn't fit over enough coils to be able to compress them down enough to fit over the new shocks. I managed to get one side put back together, just. Then it started going pear shaped, the second spring did not want to play and started off by removing itself from the new shock while undoing the compressors. Second attempt and one compressor slipped off the spring and almost took out my helpers hands.

That spooked us too much and I ended up dropping the last spring/shock/top mount off at a garage and they can sort it out with the proper equipment :o

Apart from the drop links everything dismantled quite nicely considering the car has done 145,000 miles as all the nuts and bolts usually seem to be corroded solid.
 
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306 springs are known for being long (presume working on car in sig) also for having hellish droplinks!

Just bought some Bilsteins, droplinks, springs, top mounts, bolts for my 306 so will be doing the same in a few weeks. My car has done a hole 3500 miles less than yours though, I'm sure it'll be peachy under there! not...
 
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