Not sure if new F31FD is working properly
- Thread starter Hawkpie
- Start date
Hi chaps, Ok have done some test shots of the same pic on some various settings and have uploaded the originals below.
Sorry they are all about 3Mb, but thought it might be best to keep them in their original format. Here goes:
1. Normal shot using Anti-Shake - ISO set to auto can't change this on this setting
2. Normal shot Scene Selection set to outdoors - ISO set to auto can't change this on this setting
3. Normal shot - All auto settings
4. Manual setting - Flash - ISO 100
5. Manual setting - No Flash - ISO 100
6. Setting called AS - Aperture at 2.8 and ISO 100
Personally I still don't think they are right. The bushes look a bit soft/blurry and I expected them to be a lot more clearer. The blue base of the swingball doesn't look crisp either.
Some of them make my eyes feel weird looking at them too.
Is this just me being picky or does anyone think the same about the pics? In answer to someones question above, yes I am half depressing the button to sort the focus and then doing a full press to take the photo.
Cheers
Sorry they are all about 3Mb, but thought it might be best to keep them in their original format. Here goes:
1. Normal shot using Anti-Shake - ISO set to auto can't change this on this setting
2. Normal shot Scene Selection set to outdoors - ISO set to auto can't change this on this setting
3. Normal shot - All auto settings
4. Manual setting - Flash - ISO 100
5. Manual setting - No Flash - ISO 100
6. Setting called AS - Aperture at 2.8 and ISO 100
Personally I still don't think they are right. The bushes look a bit soft/blurry and I expected them to be a lot more clearer. The blue base of the swingball doesn't look crisp either.
Some of them make my eyes feel weird looking at them too.
Is this just me being picky or does anyone think the same about the pics? In answer to someones question above, yes I am half depressing the button to sort the focus and then doing a full press to take the photo.
Cheers
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Thanks.
At the end of the day, I just want to point and click and the first few pics are when all the settings are on to auto.
And to me those pictures don't look right. Does anyone agree that they look a little blurred/soft?
Cheers
At the end of the day, I just want to point and click and the first few pics are when all the settings are on to auto.
And to me those pictures don't look right. Does anyone agree that they look a little blurred/soft?
Cheers
To be honest mate, I don't really see anything wrong with the pictures...
You may think they're on the soft side, but it's not an issue as I look at them!
Enjoy the camera, take some pics....maybe you could look at sharpening them in software afterwards, with summat like lightroom its a 30 second tops operation!
You may think they're on the soft side, but it's not an issue as I look at them!
Enjoy the camera, take some pics....maybe you could look at sharpening them in software afterwards, with summat like lightroom its a 30 second tops operation!
I know some fuji's have hexagonal/octagonal sensors which are designed to give a more analogue 'photo' look. It could be that that is softening the images a little. I must admit i noticed this a little with my sisters s5000.
As GeX says the f2.8 setting will be softening the photo a good deal. The difference i see with my 350D on f2.8 vs f8+ is fairly massive TBH.
Is there no way you can lock the f number within the auto setting. That would be the perfect solution but i assume it will probably not be possible.
gt
As GeX says the f2.8 setting will be softening the photo a good deal. The difference i see with my 350D on f2.8 vs f8+ is fairly massive TBH.
Is there no way you can lock the f number within the auto setting. That would be the perfect solution but i assume it will probably not be possible.
gt
I would echo most of the comments already made.
Firstly, given the fact that they were taken on a compact camera (particularly one with which the user is as yet unfamiliar) there is little in these shots which it would be reasonable to take exception to. Assuming that you are not intending to make enormous prints then once you have taken on board a couple of technical matters you should not have too many problems (If you want huge prints you have possibly chosen the wrong camera anyway).
As has also been said there is an issue with shallow depth of field. Most of the shots (unless I am much mistaken) have been taken with the lens at its maximum aperture of f/2.8. Use aperture priority and stop the lens down as far as practicable.
Another issue to consider is whereabouts in the zoom range these have been taken. There is an inevitable loss of sharpness with any zoom lens as you move away from its midpoint and it is possible that this may have been a factor here. Zoom lenses have a tendency to make us lazy, it is often better to leave those buttons alone and make use of one's feet when composing a shot!
I can understand your desire to be able to simply point and shoot. Unfortunately in order to do so you may have to slightly lower your expectations.
Finally you need to perfect your technique in holding the camera in order to eliminate the slightest possibility of camera shake. The main principle is that your left hand takes almost all the weight of the camera leaving the right hand relaxed so that the index finger can gently squeeze the shutter release. Resist the temptation to pull your finger away after you have taken the shot. The lack of an optical viewfinder may become something of an issue here as it is far easier to hold a camera steady with it to your eye than when looking into a screen.
The smaller the hole through which the light enters the lens the greater the area (front to back) that is in focus in the resulting image. To make things confusing the "f" number is a ratio so the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.
With your lens "wide open" at f2.8 there will not be much in focus in front of and behind the point on which you tell the camera to autofocus. By making the hole smaller - selecting f/5 or f/8 you will increase that range that is in focus.
The downside of this is that with a smaller aperture, less light gets in so the shutter needs to be open for longer to let in enough light for a correct exposure. If the shutter is open for a very long time it becomes impossible to hold the camera still so you get camera shake. You can compensate for this by increasing the ISO but this can also lead to issues with "noise" in the final image. (For film photography you have to choose the right ISO film to load - high ISO is more sensitive but also more grainy - at least you have the option of setting it differently for each shot as required)
Once you get your head around this interplay between aperture, shutter speed, depth of field (AKA depth of focus, AKA zone of sharpness) and ISO you will have an understanding of the most important techical aspect of photography which will stand you in good stead whatever camera you use.
Firstly, given the fact that they were taken on a compact camera (particularly one with which the user is as yet unfamiliar) there is little in these shots which it would be reasonable to take exception to. Assuming that you are not intending to make enormous prints then once you have taken on board a couple of technical matters you should not have too many problems (If you want huge prints you have possibly chosen the wrong camera anyway).
As has also been said there is an issue with shallow depth of field. Most of the shots (unless I am much mistaken) have been taken with the lens at its maximum aperture of f/2.8. Use aperture priority and stop the lens down as far as practicable.
Another issue to consider is whereabouts in the zoom range these have been taken. There is an inevitable loss of sharpness with any zoom lens as you move away from its midpoint and it is possible that this may have been a factor here. Zoom lenses have a tendency to make us lazy, it is often better to leave those buttons alone and make use of one's feet when composing a shot!
I can understand your desire to be able to simply point and shoot. Unfortunately in order to do so you may have to slightly lower your expectations.
Finally you need to perfect your technique in holding the camera in order to eliminate the slightest possibility of camera shake. The main principle is that your left hand takes almost all the weight of the camera leaving the right hand relaxed so that the index finger can gently squeeze the shutter release. Resist the temptation to pull your finger away after you have taken the shot. The lack of an optical viewfinder may become something of an issue here as it is far easier to hold a camera steady with it to your eye than when looking into a screen.
The smaller the hole through which the light enters the lens the greater the area (front to back) that is in focus in the resulting image. To make things confusing the "f" number is a ratio so the bigger the number, the smaller the hole.
With your lens "wide open" at f2.8 there will not be much in focus in front of and behind the point on which you tell the camera to autofocus. By making the hole smaller - selecting f/5 or f/8 you will increase that range that is in focus.
The downside of this is that with a smaller aperture, less light gets in so the shutter needs to be open for longer to let in enough light for a correct exposure. If the shutter is open for a very long time it becomes impossible to hold the camera still so you get camera shake. You can compensate for this by increasing the ISO but this can also lead to issues with "noise" in the final image. (For film photography you have to choose the right ISO film to load - high ISO is more sensitive but also more grainy - at least you have the option of setting it differently for each shot as required)
Once you get your head around this interplay between aperture, shutter speed, depth of field (AKA depth of focus, AKA zone of sharpness) and ISO you will have an understanding of the most important techical aspect of photography which will stand you in good stead whatever camera you use.
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Nicos Rex said:
Most that I print out is likely 7x5 or at a push A4.
Nicos Rex said:
Yes, that is correct. This is the auto setting on the camera and was unsure about actually changing this, or if I actually can on the Auto / Point and Click mode.
Nicos Rex said:
I think I may have zoomed in very slightly, but not a massive amount.
Nicos Rex said:
Ace, thanks for all the info on this, much appreciated!
I'll have a mess around with these settings tonight and see if these results in better shots.
Thanks again for the info.