Obsidian order.

snaggster

snaggster

snaggster

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Joined
3 Apr 2010
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Location
Newark Notts
Update post 45!!!!!


As you can probably guess this build is based around a corsair obsidian 700D. Though won't have anything to do with the Cardassians.:D
The project started due to me wanting a new case and also the fact that I wanted to quieten down my gtx470.
I'm planning a couple of small mods, nothing major. I decided to go with the 700D as i'm planning to cut a custom window due to me not really liking the 800D window and I also think the 700 has a cleaner front.

Anyway on to the pics.

My old case.. cm690

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Please excuse the photos. They where just quick point and shoot.

The new parts
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I'm not going to bore you with pics of the flushings from the rad (xspc rs360) But it was clean!!!

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Time for the gtx470. I was alittle nervious about removing the old cooler, but it was easyer than i thought it would be.

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And with the block and bits power fittings.

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I going to keep using my q9450 for the time being. This will give me time to save up for ivy bridge.

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I decided to rotate the cpu block round by 90 decree to allow for a better route for the tubing between the cpu and gpu.

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Radiator and fans installed in the case.

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Mobo psu added.

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I just couldn't wait to see how the tubing looked. So I had to add a piece between the cpu and gpu. The bits power compression fittings made it quite easy. The tubing is 3/4" od and 1/2" id. And is also uv active.

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Stay tuned folks.
 
Last edited:
Hi guys. Abit of a update. i tackled the rest of the tubing today. I decided on using 3/4" Feser active uv dark blue tubing. Its really good quality, and is very easy to bend without crumpling. The bits power fittings are fantastic. Though i decided to use bits power barbs and jubilee clips on the rad and res as they woundn't be seen, and also adds some peace of mind.
For the lighting along with the 3 120mm blue led fans. I went for 2x6" blue cathodes, and 2x12" uv cathodes. I have kept The lighting down on this build as my last build went alittle ott!!
I have tryed to make the tubing the center peace of this build, so hopefully only the tubing will really show though the side window in the dark.
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Tomorrow the dreaded cable management behind the mobo tray!!
 
N00bbuilder79 said:
It looks like there is plenty of room up top to mount the fans on the RAD in PUSH/PULL, is there nowhere else you can mount the pump/res to shorten the loop a little as its a long old run up to that RAD.
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I'm going to see what my temps are like. If they need alittle help i may go for push pull. Im trying to keep the build very clean looking inside the main chamber, so it would be nice if i can keep the pump in the lower part. I've checked and the pump has more than enough head to cope.

Thanks for the comments guys. And time for a little update.
 
As i had said in a earlyer post, i wasnt looking forward to the cable management behind the mobo tray. So armed with a fist full of cable ties, and those sticky squares that stick to everything (inculding my backside what my wife thought would be great not to tell me about!!) I set to it.

I went from this
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To this.
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I still have a few odds and ends to tidy, put shes getting there.

Tomorrow im taking my side panel to work to cut the window. Im a cnc machinest by trade so that makes it easyer. Though im have trouple deciding between mounting the acylic on the inside or outside.

I also have quite a funky idea for the front bezzels. But thats for later in the week.
 
UPDATES

Hi guys a bit of an update. The system is now up and running. temps are fantastic! I will post some bench marks soon.

Any my first update is of epic Fail
11

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I didn't realise that the obsidians have a thin alu sheet across the drive bays. The idea was, to cut out the name of the project, mount perspex behind it and light it up with blue leds.
After spending about an hour with my dremel, i decided i hated it. it looks tacky...!!

Next up the window, and this is just pure win!

I wanted to go for a different design than the normal retangular with rounded corners. So i drew out a battlestar paper design. (if you know what i mean you too are a geek!) The corsair case is straight and angular and i wanted to keep that theme in the window.

After masking and marking i set the side pannel up in my cnc. The pannel was clamped down onto a sheet of ply board so i could go right though with the cutter.
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Then used a 8mm carbide slot mill. By using a brand new cutter i kept the burrs to a minimum.
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Finished panel ready for deburring. i only needed to use a fine piece of emery to remove the burr.
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My pc is now back in my shed (office/man room)
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I still have a little way to go. I will dig my tripod out, and take some finished shots once shes fully completed.

I need you help as i cant make my mind up to go for clear, or light tint for the perspex?

Next update will be SSD mounting and a custom lcd pannel.

Cheers guys
 
hyperst said:
clear with a black mesh behind looks loads better than tinted mate,(you can also remove the mesh if you fancy a change and vice versa for the perspex) nice build by the way, also why not use the cnc to cut the sign you tried or is it not possible to do with it.
Click to expand...

It would take me about a day to write a programe that complex. As we dont have cam software for that machine.
My boss is great and turns a blind eye to alittle homework, but a days worth would be to much.
Quite like your idea about the mesh. I will do some googling..:)
 
PhillyDee said:
How complex is it? You can get a program called Skeinforge (open source) that can product g codes for milling machines and 3d printers.
Click to expand...

We do have cam software of other machines. we mostly use mazaks and use mazacam.
After doing it just by hand its given me an idea of how it will look, and even if it was cut prefectly i dont think i will like it. I'm now looking at another idea. I want the case to look quite stock. Like a special edition from the factory.
Thanks for the software tip PhillyDee, i will have a play with it. it may come in handy for anouther little project i have.
 
PhillyDee said:
I have never used it for milling, but its great for 3d printers!

Oh, and I program and set mazaks . . . . Makes my job nice and easy!
Click to expand...

mazatrol.... for the win....lol.. I hate having to go back and do ISO programs, they take me forever now. Mazatrol is so nice and quick to use. I rarely use cam software now, only really when doing profiles.
 
3t3P said:
looking good:)
you should be ok with 5mm acrylic with the way you have cut out your window

3mm for me even is too thick as I have a giant window and the acrylic extends over the lower section divide...causing a small raising of the side panel.

I think tinted is the new clear, it looks sophisticated, clear is well, too clear!
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Cheers mate. i went with 5mm acrylic in the end. Though it was a pain to find high strength double sided tape. As all the high strength stuff seemed to be quite think. And i wanted the window to sit flush.
I have finished a few other jobs on the build, i will take some pics when i get chance but i became a dad last week.
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