OcUK: Save my table!

Mr.Cookie · 9 Apr 2021 at 08:48

Can you screw a lump of wood to the leg from where the bolt should go through and then go secure wood through the side of the u shaped recess that the leg sits in?

Delvis · 9 Apr 2021 at 09:04

Mr.Cookie said:
Can you screw a lump of wood to the leg from where the bolt should go through and then go secure wood through the side of the u shaped recess that the leg sits in?

Don't think so....

We're going to take the frame off and try countersinking a bolt into it, creating a new fixing for the leg.

Of that fails I'll epoxy it or try something else.

Flake87 · 9 Apr 2021 at 20:15

You can buy a 'T' nut https://www.toolstation.com/pronged...MIooPPr-_x7wIVg8x3Ch3EcwC5EAQYAyABEgJfOfD_BwE

However unless there is adjustment in the leg you are going to have to machine something to make sure it's the same length.

SPG · 9 Apr 2021 at 22:41

Perfect excuse to buy a small welder.

Delvis · 10 Apr 2021 at 00:39

Flake87 said:
You can buy a 'T' nut https://www.toolstation.com/pronged...MIooPPr-_x7wIVg8x3Ch3EcwC5EAQYAyABEgJfOfD_BwE

However unless there is adjustment in the leg you are going to have to machine something to make sure it's the same length.

I've seen those, but figured they are more for wood? Not sure how they'd go into metal.

Cadder · 10 Apr 2021 at 00:47

I'm not sure what's on the other side but drilling a hole through the base material and mechanically fixing is what I'd do, rather than try to glue/epoxy it back in.
A T nut, rivnut, or something low profiled would be good. I'm not sure about a countersunk screw, it depends how thick the base material is. I'd maybe go for something in the region of a cheese head screw or coach bolt.

Welding is an option if you want to chew on removing the coating and then paint it after.

BigBoy · 10 Apr 2021 at 08:16

As you have just purchased it why not talk to the store you bought it from? Or even the manufacturer, the will solve the issue for you as everything is covered by a 1year warranty in the UK.

Flake87 · 10 Apr 2021 at 08:43

BigBoy said:
As you have just purchased it why not talk to the store you bought it from? Or even the manufacturer, the will solve the issue for you as everything is covered by a 1year warranty in the UK.

Don't know iof it's changed since Brexit, but it's a six year warranty manufacturers have to give on products intended to last some time, such as furniture.

Delvis · 10 Apr 2021 at 10:21

BigBoy said:
As you have just purchased it why not talk to the store you bought it from? Or even the manufacturer, the will solve the issue for you as everything is covered by a 1year warranty in the UK.

I have.

It's no longer in stock at the store, the manufacturer no longer makes them. Pretty sure I've said this somewhere

Anyway, getting 50% refund, we'll fix the table in some manner, win win.

Delvis · 10 Apr 2021 at 10:23

Cadder said:
I'm not sure what's on the other side but drilling a hole through the base material and mechanically fixing is what I'd do, rather than try to glue/epoxy it back in.
A T nut, rivnut, or something low profiled would be good. I'm not sure about a countersunk screw, it depends how thick the base material is. I'd maybe go for something in the region of a cheese head screw or coach bolt.

Welding is an option if you want to chew on removing the coating and then paint it after.

The frame sits flush to the table top, so unless the frame is 'hollow' or in some form of U shape, it will need to sink in somehow.

Dyson · 10 Apr 2021 at 10:28

Delvis said:
Anyway, getting 50% refund, we'll fix the table in some manner, win win.

Great outcome!

Tony Edwards · 10 Apr 2021 at 11:51

Might be a pain in the backside but could you or would you want to drill a hole big enough for a bolt head and socket spanner to go though the table top, and a smaller hole through the metal bar for the thread and then attach it with a nut at the bottom and then get a plug to fill the hole in the table top when done?

Cadder · 10 Apr 2021 at 11:52

Delvis said:
The frame sits flush to the table top, so unless the frame is 'hollow' or in some form of U shape, it will need to sink in somehow.

Got a link to the table or photos to show the other side and the thickness of the base material?

tonys · 10 Apr 2021 at 11:55

Mr.Cookies idea is a good one but I would drill through the channel and leg and just put a bolt through them.

Delvis · 10 Apr 2021 at 11:57

Let's be clear here, I won't be making hole through the table top

tonys · 10 Apr 2021 at 12:03

I meant drill a hole parallel to the table top so that it goes through both sides of the upstand of the channel section and through the actual tube of the leg.

theone8181 · 10 Apr 2021 at 12:31

Sorry if I've missed this, but what about epoxying a nut in that recessed part, that way it will be bonded to the sides so should be pretty well held. You then still have the option to remove it (as in whatever bolted to it) if needed.

Delvis · 10 Apr 2021 at 13:18

tonys said:
I meant drill a hole parallel to the table top so that it goes through both sides of the upstand of the channel section and through the actual tube of the leg.

That makes more sense now

Certainly an option! Thanks.

theone8181 said:
Sorry if I've missed this, but what about epoxying a nut in that recessed part, that way it will be bonded to the sides so should be pretty well held. You then still have the option to remove it (as in whatever bolted to it) if needed.

Yeah, got a mate coming over whose good at this sort of thing (rather than me hashing it), there's definitely a fair few back up plans. Thanks