*****OFFICIAL OcUK/JW IP35 Pro THREAD*****

Well, I managed to boot up at 405Mhz after changing some settings that WERE NOT in the frequency/voltage screen. I instantly thought 'woohoo, it's fixed!' went back into BIOS and set 430 and lo and behold it bombs out again. I Just need to find out exactly what it was I changed, that makes this possible.

Any ideas WJA96?

Try the 400MHz strap as suggested by BUFF - it's at the bottom of the memory adjustment screen. Also - I prefer SATA to be [FIXED] and PCIe seems to need to be set over 100 for stability - try 105 or 110. And what's the Northbridge heatsink feeling like? You might need active cooling on it at over 400FSB.

I played about with a lot of settings, but maybe something in the PC Health Status screen is the answer?

It shouldn't be - unless you have the System temperature shutdown switched on or something? What is your CPU temperature? Many E6300's had dished IHSs and needed lapping to run at high speeds reliably.

P.S could someone please give me a brief rundown of PWM and all the settings relating to this board?

PWM is a method controlling motor speeds (in this case a fan motor) by switching the current on and off very fast so that the motor pulses on and off rather runs slowly. Before Intel introduced PWM we only had voltage control which is OK, and it's linear so a fan that runs at 2000RPM at 12V will run at 1000RPM at 6V, but most fans need a minimum of 5V to keep turning over so your actual range of adjustment is 800-2000RPM, because if you drop the voltage below 5V you'll stop the fan, and there is no guarantee you'll get it started again. With PWM you always have the whole 12V applied, but you turn it off an on very fast. I made my own PWM fan controller which would run a fan as low as 100RPM. Also - with PWM you can stop and start the fan reliably.

To use the PWM controller settings, you need a 4-pin fan like the stock Intel HSF. Arctic Cooling, Scythe, Panaflo, Yate-Loon and a few others do PWM fans. If you have a PWM fan then you can set the temperature the fan will kick-in or stop at, and then how fast it ramps up the speed to 100%.
 
Nah my boards is just not having fsb over 388 no matter what I do. Will be buying a P45 probably, what a waste of time. Unless anyone thinks I could RMA it?
 
My board stopped working :(

Last night my PC wouldn't switch on at all, was starting to think my new PSU was faulty but it wasn't as it works fine on my old p5n-e sli board.

So removed the bios battery for about 20min and now I can switch on the pc but there is no signal going to the screen and no information is shown on the led at the back of the motherboard so it looks to be dead.

I think I tried the dual bios option but not sure if I did it right might give that another shot when I get back from work....just in case.

I did email OcUK for an RMA request but so far I haven't heard anything and maybe some one here could shed some light on the RMA situation. This board was bought in March this year and was sold as ocuk value does that mean that ocuk will deal with the warranty for the full warranty period or does it still have to go back to j&w?

Any one else got any other ideas for me to test on this board, whilst im waiting for ocuk to come back with to me about my rma request.
 
My board stopped working :(

Last night my PC wouldn't switch on at all, was starting to think my new PSU was faulty but it wasn't as it works fine on my old p5n-e sli board.

So removed the bios battery for about 20min and now I can switch on the pc but there is no signal going to the screen and no information is shown on the led at the back of the motherboard so it looks to be dead.

I think I tried the dual bios option but not sure if I did it right might give that another shot when I get back from work....just in case.

I did email OcUK for an RMA request but so far I haven't heard anything and maybe some one here could shed some light on the RMA situation. This board was bought in March this year and was sold as ocuk value does that mean that ocuk will deal with the warranty for the full warranty period or does it still have to go back to j&w?

Any one else got any other ideas for me to test on this board, whilst im waiting for ocuk to come back with to me about my rma request.

The dual BIOS probably won't help if there is nothing on the diagnostic display. Both my IP35-Pro's died, the first was replaced under warranty, the second (more recently) was replaced with a B-grade Abit IP35-Pro, which woul dbe an upgrade, but there was no I/O shield or bundle with it so it's basically unusable as it stands. I really need to chase up Yewen to get it sorted, but they will honour the warranty one way or another.
 
Ok thanks for the info WJA96.

I sent my RMA request late last night after I moved all my bits over to my trusty p5n-e sli board but so far I haven't heard a thing. Think I will have to give them a phone as I would like to get this resolved asap.
 
Question for you guys, did your board come with a CPU socket protector? I never throw things out and the only protector I can find doesn't fit (think it came with my Asus mobo)

Now according to OCUK rules I can't send the board back without this protector...
 
Yes, they all came with a horrid rubbery socket protector, but they ASUS one should also fit, it's just a bit tricky to do it. Fit the t-shaped bit first, then snap the other bit down too.
 
Man I was being so stupid I was trying to put the plastic bit in first if I lock the socket it fits nicely on top.

Thanks WJA96 for making me think!

I wonder if I will get a new J&W board or not.
 
I wonder if I will get a new J&W board or not.

It's very unlikely - unless they get any RMA boards back, they don't have any new ones and I suspect the best you can hope for is a B-grade Abit IP35-Pro which is a pretty decent spec for spec replacement, even if it was originally a lot more expensive.
 
Just started thinking after you said you had two boards die on your WJA, has there been a lot of boards dying for other people here?

What happened to your boards WJA? I have to say mine was extremely weird as it just stopped posting never seen anything like it before.
 
I also had one die while in the hands of Royal Mail. For some reason they only paid £50 compensation, but that's all I sold it for second hand.
 
Well I will be posting my board to OcUK tomorrow, found an old Asrock 939 mobo box which was just the right size for the board :)

Im thinking of installing my e8400 on my P5n-e sli board but even with the bios that promised to add support for it 1101 it didn't work which was the reason I got the J&W board in the first place. Everything just seems to be so much slower with *** e4300 *sigh*

Ohh well at least I got working system...so should just stop moaning :)
 
Urgent need of help, I just got new mobo with 1.2 bios with e8400 cpu, and normally I try to flash to 1.5. But in dos I had a Keyboard problem while flashing (keyboard stops to work).And I try in windows to flash the bios and it fails because I have a vista.
And now to flash bios I need to change the jumper(I know what to do) but the problem is the keyboard don't work at all.
 
I just ordered one of these. I found it in the B-grade section for £23.49, which prompted me to buy it and a new CPU and new memory for my long-delayed upgrade.

I've just thought of something that will probably be a problem...

Will my old PSU with a 20-pin ATX connector work with this board? It was a very good PSU in its day (Aeropower IISE+), I haven't had any trouble with it and I was intending to continue using it.

I'm expecting either "No, you need a new PSU" or "Well, you could do it but you risk overloading the wires from your old PSU", but I'm hopeful because a new PSU would add 50% to the cost of my nice budget upgrade.
 
Will my old PSU with a 20-pin ATX connector work with this board?

Yes. It'll be fine as long as it has a square 4-pin 'Intel' power lead as well. that plugs in elsewhere on the board, but even that can be powered off a normal 4-pin molex with an adaptor.
 
My J&W IP35 Pro is still going great with a C2D E8500 @ 4Ghz.

Only 1 problem though. My overclock is orthos stable, I left it running for 24 hours with load temps of 65c and I play Call of duty 4 for hours with no probs but occasionally the overclock fails when I power the PC on and it resets to BIOS defaults. I only have to power off and back on again for my overclock to come back with the rest of my BIOS setting so it's not too much of a problem but I wish it wouldn't do it.

Any ideas?
 
Can anyone tell me what i need to do to get the esata connection working? I have looked through the bios & cant see anything that relates to a sata controller.
I have a working sata drive with power to it, & i have also tried trimming 3mm off the sata cable plastic to make sure it is seating properly, any help much appreciared, thx
 
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