Associate
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 1,519
- Location
- Liverpool - UK.
This thread has reminded me Im getting the Capri at the weekend, more retro goodness!
Oh my God, what the hell have I bought yet again!?
- Thread starter Lopéz
- Start date
Excellent - make sure you get plenty of pics up, I'll be interested to see what condition it's in.
Associate
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
- Posts
- 1,519
- Location
- Liverpool - UK.
Will do!
Generally 2 wing repairs and a section of the scuttle. Im ploughing a bit of cash into her for some retro goodness though! Im thinking 13" revolutions, black centre and polished lip for starters.
Man of Honour
- Joined
- 5 Jun 2003
- Posts
- 91,552
- Location
- Falling...
Hahaha! Fantastic! :
Now that's something I'd have loved to have seen - especially his face when he saw what happened!
Now that's something I'd have loved to have seen - especially his face when he saw what happened!
So, following on from my experiments with bike carbs here are the pics:
Take one set of bike carbs and a standard manifold
Start cutting up the manifold with a grinder
Get busy with the hose and clips, et voila.
Here they are pictured next to the standard Varijet carb.
And in situ. When fitted properly, the coolant hoses that feed the autochoke on the standard manifold will need to be joined together.
Should be enough room for trumpets and/or a filter
I did get it running, unfortunately Kate forgot to press "Record" and stood there holding a camera while she gazed at the sky/a passing butterfly/whatever it is that women do when they nod off into standby mode.
So here instead is a short clip of my fuelling woes.
How much is this stuff a litre again?
http://ocukroguesgallery.com/lopez/Mantaavid.wmv
Take one set of bike carbs and a standard manifold
Start cutting up the manifold with a grinder
Get busy with the hose and clips, et voila.
Here they are pictured next to the standard Varijet carb.
And in situ. When fitted properly, the coolant hoses that feed the autochoke on the standard manifold will need to be joined together.
Should be enough room for trumpets and/or a filter
I did get it running, unfortunately Kate forgot to press "Record" and stood there holding a camera while she gazed at the sky/a passing butterfly/whatever it is that women do when they nod off into standby mode.
So here instead is a short clip of my fuelling woes.
How much is this stuff a litre again?
http://ocukroguesgallery.com/lopez/Mantaavid.wmv
Last edited:
Soldato
- Joined
- 2 Mar 2004
- Posts
- 11,919
- Location
- SE England
"We got ourselves an engine fire, boys"
Looks to be coming together a treat! Might have to nick this idea
Looks to be coming together a treat! Might have to nick this idea
"We got ourselves an engine fire, boys"
Exactly why I decided to quit while I was ahead. Didn't fancy having it spit back through the carbs and send it up in flames.
More fiddling to be done. Sounded great when it was running though
Disaster strikes!
I was running some RCA leads back to the sub box a couple of weeks ago and noticed a very damp carpet on the passenger side. Lifting the mat, I noticed I had a couple of mushrooms growing as well
Knowing the floor above the chassis rails is normally the first bit to "go" I decided I'd better find out how bad it had gotten as I had no idea how long the car had been letting in water.
I think the leak is being caused by my split door seals. I've checked the battery tray and washer bottle tray from inside the car, neither are perforated or leaking so the water must be coming in the corners of the door seals - I'll do a hosepipe test when I get the chance.
So out with the seat, peel back the carpet on the passenger side first and what do I see.....
Wet newspaper from 1997 and a hole in the floor.
Hole is directly above the jacking point. What causes these to rust upwards? Moisture/condensation forming inside the jacking points I guess?
Glad I caught it early, this would not have been spotted by Mr MOT tester for some years I fear.
So, having seen that I was confident the other side would be the same if not worse
Hey presto:
Bit worse to be honest. Ah well, can't be helped, what's done is done, and a Manta will go rotten as sure as night follows day.
So to tackle this properly the carpet needs to come out and the soundproofing needs to come off. I removed the passenger seat, centre console etc and was pleased to discover the front carpet is in 2 halves which means I could at least take half out today (got to drive to work tomorrow!)
A bit of this:
Left me with a lot of this:
Then it got dark. So next weekend, out will come the seat and carpet on the other side so I can do the same.
Then I will replace the door seals, and after that, I suppose I'd better weld it all up!
I was running some RCA leads back to the sub box a couple of weeks ago and noticed a very damp carpet on the passenger side. Lifting the mat, I noticed I had a couple of mushrooms growing as well
Knowing the floor above the chassis rails is normally the first bit to "go" I decided I'd better find out how bad it had gotten as I had no idea how long the car had been letting in water.
I think the leak is being caused by my split door seals. I've checked the battery tray and washer bottle tray from inside the car, neither are perforated or leaking so the water must be coming in the corners of the door seals - I'll do a hosepipe test when I get the chance.
So out with the seat, peel back the carpet on the passenger side first and what do I see.....
Wet newspaper from 1997 and a hole in the floor.
Hole is directly above the jacking point. What causes these to rust upwards? Moisture/condensation forming inside the jacking points I guess?
Glad I caught it early, this would not have been spotted by Mr MOT tester for some years I fear.
So, having seen that I was confident the other side would be the same if not worse
Hey presto:
Bit worse to be honest. Ah well, can't be helped, what's done is done, and a Manta will go rotten as sure as night follows day.
So to tackle this properly the carpet needs to come out and the soundproofing needs to come off. I removed the passenger seat, centre console etc and was pleased to discover the front carpet is in 2 halves which means I could at least take half out today (got to drive to work tomorrow!)
A bit of this:
Left me with a lot of this:
Then it got dark. So next weekend, out will come the seat and carpet on the other side so I can do the same.
Then I will replace the door seals, and after that, I suppose I'd better weld it all up!
Unlucky mate 
Just got all of the rust finally sorted on the mini, it's taken a while and left us with two annoying small holes on either side of the bodywork at the back. Gonna have to do some filler and touchup methinks.
Great looking cars though, Mantas
Just got all of the rust finally sorted on the mini, it's taken a while and left us with two annoying small holes on either side of the bodywork at the back. Gonna have to do some filler and touchup methinks.
Great looking cars though, Mantas
Associate
- Joined
- 23 Nov 2002
- Posts
- 2,184
- Location
- Faygate, West Sussex
I get exactly the same round here with my a series.
It's either "not seen one of those in years'
or
"what is it mate?"
Certainly seem to attract a lot of attention.
Well, had some holiday I needed to take before summer and it was a dry day so I decided to do a little remedial work.
First up, finish the headlamps.
I recently replaced all 4 of my lights with new convex replacements. The lights are now relayed (1 for dip and 1 for main) so that I can safely run higher wattage bulbs if I choose to do so.
All 4 lenses are now H4 with dip pattern but on the road it makes next to no difference and main beam performance with new relays and lenses is tremendous.
The old wiring was incredibly sketchy so I assembled a new loom which (even with the Scotchlocks
) is much better than the old setup which literally fell apart in my hands
Here is the car with the old corroded lights - the driver's side is the worst:
New lights compared to the old ones - convex lens instead of flat glass:
Here's the relay bank and new loom - inner wing really needs degreasing!:
Also tidied up my lives to the battery:
New eyes!
Just needs aligning now but already they are a massive improvement on the old setup
Next job was the dreaded rust.
First up was the rear arch where the arch spat normally covers it. Ideally this needs new steel welding in but a preservation job will have to do for now.
One scabby arch:
Rubbed back to bare metal:
Smear in Bilt Hamber DeOx Gel and coat with clingfilm so it doesn't dry out. I left this on for a few hours.
Clean off the DeOx Gel and coat in Hydrate80 which is a rust stabiliser/convertor. It starts off a blue/purple and goes black when dry.
Added a second coat to the worst affected areas
Tomorrow that gets painted with stonechip black, primer, topcoat, lacquer and then the arch spat can go back over the top.
Did exactly the same to a few spots on the rear panel. No point repeating the words!
Tomorrow when dry it will get finished off
First up, finish the headlamps.
I recently replaced all 4 of my lights with new convex replacements. The lights are now relayed (1 for dip and 1 for main) so that I can safely run higher wattage bulbs if I choose to do so.
All 4 lenses are now H4 with dip pattern but on the road it makes next to no difference and main beam performance with new relays and lenses is tremendous.
The old wiring was incredibly sketchy so I assembled a new loom which (even with the Scotchlocks
) is much better than the old setup which literally fell apart in my handsHere is the car with the old corroded lights - the driver's side is the worst:
New lights compared to the old ones - convex lens instead of flat glass:
Here's the relay bank and new loom - inner wing really needs degreasing!:
Also tidied up my lives to the battery:
New eyes!
Just needs aligning now but already they are a massive improvement on the old setup
Next job was the dreaded rust.
First up was the rear arch where the arch spat normally covers it. Ideally this needs new steel welding in but a preservation job will have to do for now.
One scabby arch:
Rubbed back to bare metal:
Smear in Bilt Hamber DeOx Gel and coat with clingfilm so it doesn't dry out. I left this on for a few hours.
Clean off the DeOx Gel and coat in Hydrate80 which is a rust stabiliser/convertor. It starts off a blue/purple and goes black when dry.
Added a second coat to the worst affected areas
Tomorrow that gets painted with stonechip black, primer, topcoat, lacquer and then the arch spat can go back over the top.
Did exactly the same to a few spots on the rear panel. No point repeating the words!
Tomorrow when dry it will get finished off
Final job for today I have been putting off for a while. 2 nasty little areas of rot where the chassis outriggers join the floor. Had enough of that crusty feeling beneath my heel so today I cut out the rot.
Passenger side - cut away the rusty floor:
Clean out the inside of the chassis rail which is surprisingly sound:
Fill with DeOx gel and this will get left overnight to work it's magic:
Then on to the (nastier) driver's side.
Before:
After:
As you can see the driver's side is much worse, I'll need to repair the chassis outrigger before welding in the new floor section.
Early start tomorrow again, I'm actually quite enjoying this as I haven't done much mechanical work lately.
Passenger side - cut away the rusty floor:
Clean out the inside of the chassis rail which is surprisingly sound:
Fill with DeOx gel and this will get left overnight to work it's magic:
Then on to the (nastier) driver's side.
Before:
After:
As you can see the driver's side is much worse, I'll need to repair the chassis outrigger before welding in the new floor section.
Early start tomorrow again, I'm actually quite enjoying this as I haven't done much mechanical work lately.
A bloke called Petrol by any chance? Seen his threads, the guy has fantastic attention to detail. L1J recommended Bilt Hamber to me and I've been sold ever since! Need a restock soon though.
The gel is very effective when you cover it in clingfilm to stop it drying. Hopefully in the morning I'll have some decent steel exposed to weld to.
The gel is very effective when you cover it in clingfilm to stop it drying. Hopefully in the morning I'll have some decent steel exposed to weld to.
The holes in the 'humped' bit are to locate the jack I suppose, but if you get water spray up those holes is there anywhere for it to get out or does it just sit in the trough and rot the steel? Might be worth putting a couple of drainage holes at the lowest points if so?
It's an odd setup.
The outrigger (it's just a jacking point really) has 2 channels with the "hump" in the middle - and the round end of a standard Bilstein jack slides into the hump.
The 2 holes in the top of the hump both had the remains of rubber bungs in them. Not entirely sure what their purpose is! The passenger side hump has no drainage holes but the driver side one has 2 holes in the side which appear to do nothing!
I think I'm going to do as you suggested and drill a decent sized hole in the bottom of each outrigger and put a rubber gromet with the centre cut out so the whole area can drain and "breath"