Oil pressure with no clear fault

It threw up the oil level after a lengthy drive but the oil was genuinely low at that point.

So was mine, both times. But up until that point it didn't use a drop. It's also worth noting that the two times the oil level light came on, I had checked the oil before making the two (rather lengthy) journeys!

No idea what the access is like on the A3 platform, but in the A6 (with it's much larger engine bay!), the whole subframe needs dropping to drop the sump before you can remove the oil pump. Something which I'd not have wanted to attempt without access to ramps/pit.
 
Going by your list of events I'd say eventually you'll need a new engine as I think you've had a time when the engine has been starved of oil. The hydrolic tappets are the big clue that overall engine oil pressure has been reduced, only getting the noise when the engine is really warm - I.E, when the oil is at it's thinnest.

It will be relatively easy to take the sump off and check the main and big end bearings for scoring, it may be only 1 or 2, as I think that may be the cause. excess wear of the big/main end bearings due to oil starvation. It's ok when the oil is cooler, hence it's thicker, but once warm the wear on the bearings is out of spec and the oil pump can't keep the pressure up.

It may be cheaper to find a second hand engine than to try and repair it unfortunately.
 
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Thanks for the advice.

Do you think its worth while taking Audi's advice and stripping the engine (i.e the quoted £540+) or just check the points you've mentioned?

I'm fearful of endlessly throwing money at the problem when a new engine is required and so financially crushing.

I presume Audi will have a record of the fault now and cheekily taking out a warranty to cover the car for the next few months would be a no no?
 
Is that even possible to just take out a warranty? Sadly, i would suspect there is a record, so even if you could start the warranty, theyd be able to see it was a pre existing problem
 
I suspect if I did have warranty initially, they'd find a way out of it somehow anyway.

Rang the Audi centre that sold me the car, no answer - checked company status: dissolved. Nice.
 
An update: i noticed when i got it back from the garage originally that the temperature didnt rise above 60 degrees on the dash.

This has been confirmed both on my trip to the dealership this morning and on my way home tonight. When im in traffic it rises, when im driving, the engine is 60 degrees max. Normal operating temp is obviously 90. Broken thermostat?
 
Did they say why they need to strip it to diagnose the oil pressure issue?

sounds like completely unnecessary work

Stripping it could simply mean removing the sump to inspect the big end bearings, removing the pulleys, cambelt and front cover to inspect the oil pump...

A very wholly necessary process.

You can't just look inside it with a borescope and expect to be able to tell what went wrong and why.


OP, it's clearly FUBAR, why all the faf. Either pay to strip, inspect then repair all the faults or go and get hold of a second hand engine. It's that simple.

Cost of stripping + costs of parts + costs of repair = A number
Cost of S/H engine + cost of fitting = A number

Compare one against the other and go with the cheaper option.

and you're still driving it!!!!!!!!!
 
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Where did you use as the specialist? I've heard good things about bedrock veedubs in Motherwell.

You could ask those guys what price you would be looking for an engine + Swap.
 
Stripping it could simply mean removing the sump to inspect the big end bearings, removing the pulleys, cambelt and front cover to inspect the oil pump...

A very wholly necessary process.

You can't just look inside it with a borescope and expect to be able to tell what went wrong and why.


OP, it's clearly FUBAR, why all the faf. Either pay to strip, inspect then repair all the faults or go and get hold of a second hand engine. It's that simple.

Cost of stripping + costs of parts + costs of repair = A number
Cost of S/H engine + cost of fitting = A number

Compare one against the other and go with the cheaper option.

and you're still driving it!!!!!!!!!

I'm weighing both up, that's why I'm looking for the opinions of those in the thread. If I can spare the expense of a new engine and being without my car for an extended period then I obviously want to go down that route. I doubt I could sell the car in its current state either - not that I'd want to, I love it.

Howard: Here's the engine bay, noise starts happening 10 seconds in. I had to stand for at least a minute after opening the bonnet before it started happening.

@Jonny: Really? I thought it looked pretty rough and judging by their website, not very reputable :o
 
Just listened to that with headphones on. What happens to the noise when you blip the revs? Is it still on the original dmf?
 
I would go down the new engine route as you still do not have an explanation to why the oil pressure dropped, what damage has been caused to the engine/turbo. You should be able to get one fitted for around £1200-1500 going by a quick google search.

The rattle could be a lot of things DMF (pretty sure the DSG box still has one), cam chain tensioner, oil pump.. these are all common failures on the TFSI engine.
 
Sometimes that's the best kind of garage!

A friend of a friend has had his passat in and he didn't have a bad thing to say.

I'll give them a phone. Cheers mate.

Just listened to that with headphones on. What happens to the noise when you blip the revs? Is it still on the original dmf?
The noise goes away when I'm on the throttle and I think so.
I would go down the new engine route as you still do not have an explanation to why the oil pressure dropped, what damage has been caused to the engine/turbo. You should be able to get one fitted for around £1200-1500 going by a quick google search.

The rattle could be a lot of things DMF (pretty sure the DSG box still has one), cam chain tensioner, oil pump.. these are all common failures on the TFSI engine.
Are you talking labour only? That's still £3k...at that level, I'd possibly call it quits and chuck the car :(
 
I'll give them a phone. Cheers mate.


The noise goes away when I'm on the throttle and I think so.

Are you talking labour only? That's still £3k...at that level, I'd possibly call it quits and chuck the car :(

On ebay companies are offering a BWA 2L TFSI engine supplied and fitted for £1400-1600. Doing a straight engine swap is pretty straight forward and I would expect it to be done in a day, I recon you to be able to pick up the bare engine for around £400-500 as they are common across multiple models.
 
That's good to know, I had a brief look around and was so shocked by the price that I failed to read any descriptions regarding fitting etc! Cheers, I'll pay more attention next time.
 
I did a clutch and flywheel on a a3 1.8t years ago where it would tap lightly on idle, disappear on load and come back with a vengeance on the over run.
 
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