Old Amplifiers

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Any advice or anything to look out for generally on old amplifiers? Even if it's "85db SNR? Pffttt" or "Don't bother, just buy a modern one".
I'm currently looking at a NAD 3130, not sure how it stacks up today but it's a classic amp, looks clean and at good price. 1985 they were released.
 
There's a lot of love for decent old amps. If you do the inflation calculations you'll often see that what was considered a budget amp in the 80's would equate to spending mid-market money today. £180 in 1984 is the equivalent of £550 today.

It's not a level playing field of course. The cost of manufacturing has fallen a lot in that time too, but much of that advantage has been wasted on making cheaper rather than better products. I suppose that's a response to the rise of multichannel in the 90's/00's and also the move away from conventional home-based stereo systems to PC audio and portables. Manufacturers are either scrabbling for what business they can get in the budget market or have retreated to the mid- and upper-end price brackets when forty-somethings are reliving their youth but with a fatter wallet :D

Physical condition aside, the two caveats with older amps are noisy volume potentiometers (sometimes source switching pots too) and capacitors drying out. Neither is a terminal problem, and noise on the pots is easy to check by switching and changing volume when there's no source playing. Capacitor issues are slightly harder to pin down unless there's a dead channel. Whiz the lid off and inspect visually. Look for signs of bulging tops or bursting at the bases. However, don't be tempted to recap unless there's a definite issue and you know what you're doing.

The bottom line IMO is that a good amp is a good amp. NADs are solid performers with a reputation for plenty of power (lots of current) and an easy listening sound. It'll be hard to find something new that matches the build quality and performance at the same price as used, but then that really shouldn't be a surprise; depreciation works in your favour. Having said that, there are some modern alternatives that might be worth keeping on your radar if bidding gets a bit silly on a 30+ year old amp. I've been really impressed with the Onkyo A-9010. It's a bit of a left-field shout because Onkyo isn't the first name that springs to mind when talking good stereo amps, but there it is; they made a corker.

Equally left-field are the original 90's Yamaha Pro-Logic amps. Now I know what you're probably thinking.... "An AV amp can't be good at stereo"... and if we were talking an early Dolby Digital/DTS AV receiver I'd absolutely agree. But the thing is the Pro-Logic amps come from a different school of thought.

Yamaha took the basic guts of a stonking great stereo amp and turned it in to a multichannel beast. It helps of course that these things were the thick end of £1500-£1800 new, so there was a LOT of money thrown at making something peerless in its class. Today they're overlooked by all but true aficionados. If you have some speakers that are a tricky load, or that just need some really welly to open then up, then amps such as the Yamaha DSP-A2070 and DSP-A3090 have the power in spades and yet still do all the Hi-Fi stuff such as insight and timing.
 
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated :) I’m happy to replace internal components if needs be.

I can get peak under the hood of the amplifier if needs be. I also found an Arcam Alpha 8 I’m interested in that has pictures of the internals, looks good from what I can see.

I’ve noticed that Onkyo, gets good reviews for the price/performance ratio. I would prefer two sets of speaker terminals though.

As for Yamaha, I’ve not had any experience with them. When you say Pro-Logic, do you mean what sort of models? The DSP A-**** models you mentioned have fancy digital processing.
 
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated :) I’m happy to replace internal components if needs be.

I can get peak under the hood of the amplifier if needs be. I also found an Arcam Alpha 8 I’m interested in that has pictures of the internals, looks good from what I can see.

I’ve noticed that Onkyo, gets good reviews for the price/performance ratio. I would prefer two sets of speaker terminals though.

As for Yamaha, I’ve not had any experience with them. When you say Pro-Logic, do you mean what sort of models? The DSP A-**** models you mentioned have fancy digital processing.


Be careful of Arcam Alphas I don't know about the 8, but I have a 9 and it suffers from dodgy input, and it would cost £200+ to fix, as I would need to get custom made input switch made up.
 
I love the sound of a old amp,I have a denon avc a10se,beast of a amp and gives such a warm sound,I had a new Yamaha before this one and hated it,will always use a old amp.
 
I love the sound of a old amp,I have a denon avc a10se,beast of a amp and gives such a warm sound,I had a new Yamaha before this one and hated it,will always use a old amp.

Could just be the speakers, I didn't like one brand of speakers with my Audiolab amps but put on another brand, and fixed everything.

Also I would not buy a amp that is "very old" after a certain point you need to get capacitors replaced.
 
The amp has had one owner from new, he likes music but at a low volume,he never pushed the amp one bit and I can confirm this,I got the amp and his surround speakers as well and the whole lot sounds amazing with a good sub.
 
To be fair, you can find superb, good, average and bad amplifiers from virtually all manufacturers over the years. TBH, anything in the realms of legendary will be expensive no matter what age it is. You are more likely to find stuff from the late 80's to the mid 90's cheapest because that's the period where most of the manufacturers had either already folded or were on their way down. Lucid pretty much covered all of the bases. Capacitors won't last much past 30 years unless they have operated in a nice cool environment and the ripple currents have been well within spec. The harder the life the shorter their life. I've had to rebuild all of my amps from the early 80's, however only a handful of the capacitors have actually been out of spec and those were always the ones that sat next to hot components. (zeners, and resistors usually)

A couple of stand outs for me would be:
Quad (power amps only) - 405, 306, 909, 240, 520
Luxman - L-1xx, L-2xx, L-4xx, L-5xx models of integrated all well regarded. The L-2xx series being the budget orientated.
Sansui - Made some great stuff and some total crap The AU-xxx models were best
Sony ES - Most of the ES line was good kit
 
Thanks for your reply, much appreciated :) I’m happy to replace internal components if needs be.

I can get peak under the hood of the amplifier if needs be. I also found an Arcam Alpha 8 I’m interested in that has pictures of the internals, looks good from what I can see.

I’ve noticed that Onkyo, gets good reviews for the price/performance ratio. I would prefer two sets of speaker terminals though.

As for Yamaha, I’ve not had any experience with them. When you say Pro-Logic, do you mean what sort of models? The DSP A-**** models you mentioned have fancy digital processing.

Yes, both amps have digital audio processing. The 2070 has all analogue input (no coaxial, no optical) and so processes in Dolby Pro-Logic only when in surround mode. Although there are video inputs on it they're basically on a passive switch apart from the REC OUT connections. The upshot is that the presence of (defeatable) DSP and the video switching is benign. The internal construction, the use of wholly separate transformers (not just taps or separate power rails but two completely independent transformers), the signal paths and the whole design ethos resulted in an amp with an extremely low noise floor, pretty-much unburstable power and enough headroom that it never seems to run out of gas.Someone has gone in to the 2070 with a fine-tooth comb here https://www.avforums.com/threads/yamaha-dsp-a2070-digital-sound-field-processing-amplifier.1628933/

The 3090 comes from the same school of thought. However, it does have Optical, Coax and even an AC3 RF input for Laser Disc. Both are immensely capable examples of top down engineering to make statement products.

For a long time I shared the standard opinion that AV Receivers don't do music. That was my experience listening to-, installing- and owning the typical £600-£1000 AV Receivers. It was still my experience when I made the change to a pre-power AV system. Forum warriors and reviewers raved about the TAG AV32r-192bp, so that's what I got. It was stunning for movies. Music though was a bit cold and uninvolving. Later I had an opportunity to listen to the TAG against a Roksan AV pre-amp. For movies the TAG walked it, but playing music the Roksan showed what a company does that listens to music. Suddenly there was joy in the sound and foot tapping and excitement to listen to the next thing and the next and the next. There seem to be people who love hearing little details, and maybe that's there definition of 'better', and it seems there are people who like to hear the band playing as a whole unit. I'm in the latter category and it's maybe why Lexicon, Classe, B&W and to a lesser extent Meridian never really did it for me.

The Roksan experience showed me that it was possible to do music with some AV gear, but with a trade-off for movies. However, that was pre-power systems and not integrateds. What changed my opinion on them was an unintentional consequence of repairing an old Creek 4040 amp.

At the time I was running a Yamaha RX-V765 I'd taken in p/ex. I'd got back in to Yamaha after installing a couple of RX-V771s on jobs where I needed pre-outs to run AV with conventional stereo systems. Anyway, I was putting the Creek through it's paces and thoroughly enjoying my regular demo discs when it occurred to me to see just what the power difference was in real life between the 35W/c budget British amp the supposedly 95W/c from the Yamaha. There was a measured difference, but nothing like the almost 3:1 power deficit. But what I did notice was that the Yamaha sounded much closer to the Creek than I would have ever suspected.

What surprised me even more was the Yam could hold a tune and easily resolve the differences in quality between playing in Stereo mode vs Pure Direct, and differentiate the source player in direct vs standard mode too. Now I'll be totally upfront, none of this was done in blind testing or ABX, and I do tend to listen at er... healthy volumes ;)... and my JM Lab Electra 905s are excellent at revealing the difference in gear and recordings. Someone else doing the same tests with different gear at lower volumes might not hear as much difference. However, I'm more open to the idea that certain AV receivers do make reasonable 2 channel amps for Hi-Fi use in the right setting.

That brings us back to these two Yamaha behemoths. Unfortunately for you neither is suitable for your needs. They don't have two sets of main speaker outputs.
 
I have an old technics amp I got from the Manchester hifi show around 1995 and still love it, still have the speakers too and when I put them together every now and again the sound is just instantly recognisable
 
Do you plan to run two sets of speakers immediately, or is this for keeping options open or something else?
 
Do you plan to run two sets of speakers immediately, or is this for keeping options open or something else?

The solution is for my "Man Cave". I want to be able to have one speaker set for my PC (maybe with existing sub using pre-out or Y connector on processor In/Out on old amps if capable) and the second speaker set for lounging out in my huge beanbag having a listening session.
 
I've been running old amps for years now for my DJ equipment. Initially started with a Technics amp from the 80's, then "upgraded" to a NAD 310 from the 90's. They both sounded great. Although I did have to open up the 310 and clean the contact points with some Isopropyl Alcohol at one point to stop some annoying crackling. It did work perfectly after though.

I then upgraded from the NAD to a Yamaha A-S301 because it had the 2 speaker terminals. I wanted to use the same amp for both my DJ equipment, and my PC, running separate speakers for each. Then shortly afterwards I ended up with a pair of powered monitors for the DJ equipment, so the "upgrade" was unnecessary. Still a great amp though, and managed to pick it up for pretty cheap from Peter Tyson on Ebay when they had a 20% off coupon.
 
The solution is for my "Man Cave". I want to be able to have one speaker set for my PC (maybe with existing sub using pre-out or Y connector on processor In/Out on old amps if capable) and the second speaker set for lounging out in my huge beanbag having a listening session.
Yeah, you do need Spkrs A+B then unless you go for active monitors as xs2man did.

Running a sub with the NAD and two sets of speakers would be a bit of a challenge though. There's no dedicated subwoofer-out coaxial connection on these older amps, and it's not practical to connect to the Tape REC OUT either as that's fixed level so your sub would be running at full volume all the time. You'd have no way to alter the level from the amp.

The only practical direct-connection method would be a sub with Hi-Level connections (Speaker IN to Speaker OUT). In effect the sub sits part way along the speaker wires to the main speakers. That's fine for a single set of speakers, but you wouldn't be able to share the sub on the second set of speaker outs.

With two sets of speaker wires converging from the amp you'd end up sending voltage and current back in to the amp up the unused speaker outputs - that's not good. Also, with two sets of speaker wires diverging from the sub to both sets of speakers then both sets would be live all the time. IOW, you play something intended for the PC but the Hi-Fi speakers would play along too.

If your sub was the type with Hi-Level in but not out (e.g. such as the Neutrik Input on a BK) then that solves the "two set of speakers playing at the same time" issue, but you still couldn't connect that across Speaker A and B at the same time without some risk to the amp.

NB: This isn't every conceivable combination, but I think it covers the main bases before anyone starts considering adding extra switching gear.

So, question: Does your sub have speaker connections, or is it just a Low Level phono connection?


If it is just the Low Level input then your choices of amp narrow down a bit. New or used, you're looking at something with a subwoofer out such as the Yamaha AS301 and 501 models.


For used-only it's the same requirement, and you're going to have to check whether the amp routes audio to the Sub Out socket when using speakers B. They probably will, but it's safer to check rather than just assume and then end up with a nasty surprise.


No sales talk outside of the members market-schizo
 
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@lucid

My sub does have line and speaker level inputs. However, i assumed that if the amp has processor in/out (for use with equalizers and the like) or pre out/main in, i can fork off there for the line in to sub, that should allow the Nad the pre-amp the sub shouldn't it?
I'm not too bothered about sub on the second set for proper music listening, i would probably just manually turn off the sub.

No sales talk ousideof the members market-schizo
 
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*begs for mercy* Sorry, won't happen again.


I've had a reply back from the NAD 3130 owner who said that the caps are fine and would have been replaced if required by them (HiFi refurb seller)

And a reply from the seller of a HK pm655r:

Our audio engineer has given this a going over and is in great condition. We know the people who had it from new and never really used it. If it would be useful i can get our engineer to open it up again and take photos of the components inside and send them to you.


I'm tempted more towards these two based on my requirements, look, heritage and general browsing for info on them. Any comments for or against either?
 
Ah, right, now I see what you're planning. Sorry, not enough coffee yet. lol

Yeah, splitting at the Pre-Out / Main-In on the NAD say would probably work fine. You'll lose a little bit of level (3dB or so) in to the power amp section, but that's not really an issue as you'd have to balance up the sub anyway, so it's not like you can't compensate for it. You'll get a bit of change in the Impedance (Resistance decreases, Capacitance increases, Inductance decreases) but whether you hear that is debatable as the signal would still see a relatively large Impedance step going from the out to the in.
 
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