Osmo Polyx and hall floor renovation

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@ANDARIAL

My wife said 'they're just floorboards aren't they?'. So I guess they're from the floorboard tree then :rolleyes:.
 
Still can`t decide what wood it is!:D
Do you know if it is hard or soft wood?
Really not sure and don't know how to check. I assume it's soft wood, but that's only because they tend to be cheaper and I can't imagine anyone having invested in premium boards, based on what I know of the house.

I can make tiny dents if I press very hard with my finger nails, but not sure if that proves anything. I can also say they were pretty tough to sand, even with a belt sander @ 40 grit.

I might post on a carpentry forum (if such things exist) to see if there are any views.
 
probably pine but even then theres lots of different types

tip for the osmo is several thin coats rather than going in with loads straight away, otherwise the top dries before it all soaks in and can leave white marks
 
Softwood is not necessarily harder than hardwood. It just denotes wether it's an evergreen (soft) or not. The slower the more dense so an evergreen from far north will be tougher than an ash or an oak from central areas.

Personally I don't like original exposed floorboards. They are never really intended to be seen so they haven't been laid nicely and are draughty. I always imagine pulling splinters out of my feet.

However yours seem to be nicely laid, let us see the results please :D
 
I would still say oak, not pine. Problem with filler is that if there is any board movement the filler may just break up and fall out or be vacuumed away when its cleaned?
 
if you want to fill any gaps I can recommend DraughtEx - just dont my front room and its very effective, not noticeable and allows gap expansion + contraction
 
The semi matt Osmo Polyx arrived this morning and I've done a test application:

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Obviously it's gone very dark as it's wet, but it immediately highlighted the grain.

New brushed aluminium threshold bar has been ordered from eBay for the joint between the entrance mat and the floorboards.
 
I used Osmo Polyx tint Raw on my untreated oak floor. It's got a white tint to it so that it retains the natural colour, rather than going a little darker as it would with clear oils. I actually double coated as I decided a whiter look was preferable.

It doesn't specify the finish, but it ended up looking very matt. I wasn't entirely happy that it gave enough protection, so used Blanchon maintenance oil over the top. This was a matt finish, but has a little shine to it, and seems much more durable now. I'm planning to do an extra coat in the second half of this year (first coat a couple of months ago) and then hopefully just a top up every 18 months or so, depending on wear.
 
His floorboards are immaculate compared to mine. Most of mine have been removed (with a crowbar by the looks of things) and laid/relaid with very little care.

I don't think whoever installed the heating in my house even owned a saw - most of the boards seem to have been cut with a chisel! I ended up ripping the whole lot out and putting down brand new boards - made the sanding faster, anyway!
 
I don't think whoever installed the heating in my house even owned a saw - most of the boards seem to have been cut with a chisel! I ended up ripping the whole lot out and putting down brand new boards - made the sanding faster, anyway!

My downstairs is LVT and upstairs carpet, so mine aren't on show. If they were, they'd have to be replaced for sure.
 
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