OVERCLOCKED BUNDLE HELP PLEASE!

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1 Sep 2009
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Hey Guys,

This is my first post. I would like some advice and help please.. Let me first off start with the hardware I have used to build my new PC..

*OVERCLOCKED* Intel Core i7 920 D0 Stepping (SLBEJ) 2.66Ghz @ 4.00GHz Max / Gigabyte EX58-UD5 Intel X58 Motherboard / Corsair XMS3 6GB PC3-12800C9 DDR3 / Corsair H50-1 Bundle from overclockers.co.uk

Antec P183 Case

Sapphire 5770 1GB New Edition

Corsair 1000W Power Supply

2 x 1.5 TB seagate 7200 RPM 32mb cache for storage

1 x Curcial M225 SSD (64gb for installing Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit)

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Well after building this beautifull machine today I finally got to install windows 7 home premium 64bit on my Crucial M225 SSD..

Thorughought the inital installation it was very very slow.. I mean it took almost 3-5 mins just to get to the language selection part and then it took approx 15 mins to install windows all the way to the startup..

After the start up things seemed pretty smooth.. I did not install any drivers .. just did a windows update from windows update and then installed my graphics card drivers..

Is it normal for widows to install so slow? Is there some kind of error? On my motherboard the LED Display is showing FF once windows is up and running..

Does everything seem to be ok or is there something wrong?I know it's kind of hard to tell without seeing it in the flesh but would appreciate all help and advise..

Also how do I know that my CPU has actually been clocked to 4.00GHZ and my Ram has been clocked.. is there anywhere I can check this?

Also those of you who own the Crucial M225 what is that little white jumper switch on the top and do I need to do anything with it..

Thanks all :)
 
Use an app called CPUZ, this will show you what your CPU is running at, and your RAM frequency and timings.

FF on the Debug LED display is normal, that's what should be showing on there when everything is ok.

Regarding the Win7 install, I never had to wait as long as you said above, and I'm not even using an SSD, however, if you are up and running, and things are OK, then I don't think you should worry to much about it..
 
You should always install operating systems at stock settings. Save the overclocked profile to the bios (it's either F11 or F12, can't remember which is load and which is save) or a usb stick, load optimised defaults then try to install again. After this load the overclocked settings and check with cpu-z.

Don't get me wrong, a stable overclock can install operating systems with no problems. The issue is that a system can be very nearly stable and misbehave at an unfortunate time during install. Either it'll fail to install at stock (or install horrifically slowly), which suggests hardware fault, or it'll install fine at which point it'll probably fail stability testing once the profile is reselected. Either way you'll probably be contacting ocuk support.
 
Thanks for help guys.. so JonJ678 are you suggesting that overclockers did not do a good job on this? Also overclockers apparently save their profile in the bios so shall I go to stock load and re install a clean copy of windows and then set the overclocked settings? or just leave it now?

One more thing during the boot screen between the motherboard splach screen and the windows 7 startup screen my screen goes funny then back to normal "only for a split second" whats the reason for this .? Also before displaying FF on the LED it displays over things like C3, 78, 96.. and other number whilst its starting up and then it actually sticks with FF once in Windows..is this normal? what do these figures actually mean?

Thanks
 
Yup, that's normal for the debug LED to cycle through like that..

I suggest you take a read of the manual, and all will be revealed!!! :D
 
Yup, that's normal for the debug LED to cycle through like that..

I suggest you take a read of the manual, and all will be revealed!!! :D

thanks buddy I will try the software you were suggesting.. Also do you know what the little white switch is on the SSD ?
 
No idea sorry, I have no experience with SSD's.

I'm gonna be treating myself to one for my Birthday though!
 
Overclocking is difficult. It could be stable as a rock while they're testing it, then unstable once at home using different components (psu, gfx) and running on electricity from a different area of the grid. I'm inclined to think it's the optical drive struggling to read the disk, but that's a guess. If the behaviour exists at stock that rules out the overclock as a potential issue.

My vertex has a jumper on it to allow you to flash the firmware, the crucial might be the same. Don't touch it until you know what it is.
 
Overclocking is difficult. It could be stable as a rock while they're testing it, then unstable once at home using different components (psu, gfx) and running on electricity from a different area of the grid. I'm inclined to think it's the optical drive struggling to read the disk, but that's a guess. If the behaviour exists at stock that rules out the overclock as a potential issue.

My vertex has a jumper on it to allow you to flash the firmware, the crucial might be the same. Don't touch it until you know what it is.

For some strange reason I thought it may be the DVD drive to.. its a new LG drive.. and meant to be good but it was not reading anything for ages and then it speed up and then went quiet again.. this well may be the issue.. Also guys on this motherboard am I able to use the white SATA ports (RAID PORTS) as I have ran out of the blue SATA ports .. in bios I have disabled RAID so it should work as normal SATA ports .. please correct me if I am wrong.. Thanks..

So shall I bother with doing a windows installation again on stock and then load the overclocked settings or just leave it now?
 
Those white ports aren't RAID ports, they are white because they are being controlled by the JMicron controller instead of the intel ICH9R controller..

You should be able to connect drives to these ports without any issues.
 
Those white ports aren't RAID ports, they are white because they are being controlled by the JMicron controller instead of the intel ICH9R controller..

You should be able to connect drives to these ports without any issues.

Thank you.. much obliged :) one problem I am having is on my Antec P183 where the cables come from the front of the case (mic and AC3 plug) there is no place to plug these in my mother board.. any suggestions?
 
Is it a plug like this?

8010826R_AUDIO.JPG


If so then you fit it onto the socket shown in this pic..

gigabytegaex58ud5.jpg
 
Is it a plug like this?

8010826R_AUDIO.JPG


If so then you fit it onto the socket shown in this pic..

gigabytegaex58ud5.jpg

yes that's exactly how it is .. I have 2 x of them .. 1 says AC3 and the other is for the mic I think at the front of the case (antec P-183)

unfortunately I can't view the other pics .. do you have a link?
 
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