Painting internals

RollerBall · 12 Sep 2011 at 13:55

Due to time constraints I'm going to have to spray the internals of my TJ07 instead of powdercoating.

I still want to achieve as durable a paint as possible though. I've got a Scotch to wipe it down but as its brand new I don't think its worth sanding down. I'm thinking a coat of grey primer then a matt black. I had a quick look in halfords and hammerite seemed to be the best one.

Any help?

Greboth · 12 Sep 2011 at 14:12

Best option would be to get some etch primer to really help the paint stick. Rub down each part you want to paint with some sand paper, clean the parts of with some water and leave to dry. When painting you will be applying multiple coats so don't panic if you don't cover everything the first time round. Apply a light coat of etch primer and leave to dry until you can add the second coat (usually about 20 - 30 minutes) Usually I have found 3 or 4 coats should do then leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Give a light rub down then with the finest sand paper you can making sure you remove and lumps or anything else. The quality of the primer defines how good the paint looks. Clean off any dust leave to dry then do the same with the top coat of paint.

I have never used it but I have seen people make reference to some matt clear coat which could help protect the paint some more.

Edit: This is how I did mine and I used Halfords acid etch grey primer and halfords satin black paint (I prefer it over matt) pics in project log if you want to look.

macmodder · 12 Sep 2011 at 14:18

I'm going to be painting my internals (antec 900) this coming weekend. Got myself some self-etching primer and some black spray, but I think I might have got the wrong kind.

Greboth how much was the halfords paint and how good a finish was it?

RollerBall · 12 Sep 2011 at 14:30

Greboth said:
Best option would be to get some etch primer to really help the paint stick. Rub down each part you want to paint with some sand paper, clean the parts of with some water and leave to dry. When painting you will be applying multiple coats so don't panic if you don't cover everything the first time round. Apply a light coat of etch primer and leave to dry until you can add the second coat (usually about 20 - 30 minutes) Usually I have found 3 or 4 coats should do then leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Give a light rub down then with the finest sand paper you can making sure you remove and lumps or anything else. The quality of the primer defines how good the paint looks. Clean off any dust leave to dry then do the same with the top coat of paint.

I have never used it but I have seen people make reference to some matt clear coat which could help protect the paint some more.

Edit: This is how I did mine and I used Halfords acid etch grey primer and halfords satin black paint (I prefer it over matt) pics in project log if you want to look.

So:
- Sand (what grit, is this neccessary or will this scratch pad thing the powder coater gave me be suffice)
- Etch primer coats. 2-3 with half hour between them
- Satin black coat
- Sand down with smallest grit possible to get a perfect finish.

For that you used halfords own brand acid etch primer and own satin black?

Greboth · 12 Sep 2011 at 15:18

It was their own paint yes but I really can't remember the prices sorry, though you can look on their website. The finish is good though, I marked it a little during putting the case back together but since then it has dried completely and I have knocked it a few times and it has been fine.

Can't remember exactly the sand paper. On the bare metal I used 600 or 800, though anything that lightly scratches the surface should be fine.

So
-Light rub down with sand paper / scratch pad
-Clean with water
-3 or 4 light coats Etch primer leaving time between coats (should tell you on the can)
-Leave to dry fully (usually 24 hours minimum)
-Rub down with some fine sand paper (I used 1000 or 1200, again can't remember)
-3 or 4 light coats of paint of your choice
-Leave to dry fully (usually 24 hours minimum again)
-If there is any imperfections rub down again to remove, depending how bad it is or what sand paper you use you might need to give another coat of paint.
-Rub down with some of the highest sand papaer you, should give a really good surface (2000 if you can get it or higher)

For best results, also make sure you paint in wind less conditions and becareful with the etch primer it is horrible stuff to breath in or get in your eyes. Also, while I would say hold the can above the part you are painting test it out as some of the spray caps drip which is a PITA. Last but one tip for good results is with the first coat go left/right going off the edges a bit to give an even coverage, second coat go up/down. Final and best tip for spray painting is patience, make sure leave everything to dry fully and dont try to rush anything and should give you good results.

SGWills · 12 Sep 2011 at 15:30

some cans are worth putting in warm water for a while aswel as it stop the nozzle from drips and give a even spray, some people dont bother but i do and so far no problems when i been spraying

RollerBall · 12 Sep 2011 at 15:40

Greboth said:
It was their own paint yes but I really can't remember the prices sorry, though you can look on their website. The finish is good though, I marked it a little during putting the case back together but since then it has dried completely and I have knocked it a few times and it has been fine.

Can't remember exactly the sand paper. On the bare metal I used 600 or 800, though anything that lightly scratches the surface should be fine.

So
-Light rub down with sand paper / scratch pad
-Clean with water
-3 or 4 light coats Etch primer leaving time between coats (should tell you on the can)
-Leave to dry fully (usually 24 hours minimum)
-Rub down with some fine sand paper (I used 1000 or 1200, again can't remember)
-3 or 4 light coats of paint of your choice
-Leave to dry fully (usually 24 hours minimum again)
-If there is any imperfections rub down again to remove, depending how bad it is or what sand paper you use you might need to give another coat of paint.
-Rub down with some of the highest sand papaer you, should give a really good surface (2000 if you can get it or higher)

For best results, also make sure you paint in wind less conditions and becareful with the etch primer it is horrible stuff to breath in or get in your eyes. Also, while I would say hold the can above the part you are painting test it out as some of the spray caps drip which is a PITA. Last but one tip for good results is with the first coat go left/right going off the edges a bit to give an even coverage, second coat go up/down. Final and best tip for spray painting is patience, make sure leave everything to dry fully and dont try to rush anything and should give you good results.

I see. I'm kind of apprehensive about sanding stuff down. Will the finish be crap if I don't? Intake it the grit I use between primer and black is the same I use at the end?

SGWills · 12 Sep 2011 at 15:46

the finer the grit the less you see as its not as rough, so you normally work your way up the grits, so the first sanding, takes the biggest imperfections out of the finish, and by the time you get to your last sanding, it takes very small amount off so it gives you a better finish, hard to explain but it will give you a better finish

Greboth · 12 Sep 2011 at 16:37

With sanding stuff down, by the time it comes to sanding down the primer / paint it will be fine sand paper just to remove any small imperfections you have. If there is any big problems them you can go back to the bigger grit sand paper to remove it. Once you get the to the final paint then if you are sanding it will be really really fine sand paper that will be more of a polishing sand paper than keying the paint.

RollerBall · 12 Sep 2011 at 17:27

Greboth said:
With sanding stuff down, by the time it comes to sanding down the primer / paint it will be fine sand paper just to remove any small imperfections you have. If there is any big problems them you can go back to the bigger grit sand paper to remove it. Once you get the to the final paint then if you are sanding it will be really really fine sand paper that will be more of a polishing sand paper than keying the paint.

Well I just popped to Halfords and picked some stuff up.

I got 1200 and 2000 grit wet and dry, acid etch primer (mahoosive expensive can that was), a smaller can of 300ml satin black and a face mask with a breathing filter thingy. I also have a scotch pad off the powder coater to wipe it down in the first place.

I bought the mask as I'm going to be spraying in an open garage due to the weather. I figured I'd better get some sort of mask as it's better safe than sorry. The mask is essentially a dust mask with a wierd filter in the middle to make breathing easier. It's stated to work for "fine toxic dusts, fibers and aqueous mists up to 12 times the occupational exposure limit". I've also got a buff (fishing mask thing) I could use or they would probably let me change it for one without a hole to a standard dusk mask if it's not alright.

I'm sure it'll be fine for the paint, I'm most concerned about this primer as it comes with some pretty nasty warning labels!

clone · 12 Sep 2011 at 21:23

Use Simoniz engine enamel spray paint(Matt) i sprayed this on my case and it`s rock solid.

RollerBall · 12 Sep 2011 at 23:25

Think I should switch the paint then? I noticed halfords had an enamel one. Also, should I bet wet sanding or dry sanding between coats? I assume wet?

I want to avoid paint chipping as much as possible while maintaining a nice deep black like would have been acheived by powder coating.

Basically, I'm trying to get as close to powder coating as I can without actually powder coating it...

RollerBall · 13 Sep 2011 at 09:17

So I have another problem >.<

It's raining. Standard Welsh weather really. Clearing up a bit now and it's supposed to be sunny now for the rest of the day.

I know it's bad to spray in humid conditions but I'm kind of stretched for time. The weather doesn't look like it's changing all week and I need it done by the time I go to London on Saturday (Spray primer today, spray top coat Wednesday and then put together Thursday).

I'm going to be spraying in an open garage, will the humidity effect the paint that much? It's going to to be the acid etch primer? I'm thinking of testing out a PCI slot first and waiting half hour for the primer to dry to see how it is.

clone · 13 Sep 2011 at 09:19

You can dry sand between coats just change the paper more as it get`s clogged up and use a tak rag to remove the dust or a good cotton cloth.
I always use enamel as it`s a more solid paint that will not chip easy.

You can paint in the garage as long as you dont get it wet

ive done a car like that and no problem,have you got a heater? you could spray the panels and then use the heater to dry it.

RollerBall · 13 Sep 2011 at 09:33

clone said:
You can dry sand between coats just change the paper more as it get`s clogged up and use a tak rag to remove the dust or a good cotton cloth.
I always use enamel as it`s a more solid paint that will not chip easy.

You can paint in the garage as long as you dont get it wet ive done a car like that and no problem,have you got a heater? you could spray the panels and then use the heater to dry it.

No heater. It's an outside garage so there's no electricity as it's a bit down the road.

So dry sand after half hour or so (it says 20 minutes on the can) between the coats of primer? Trying to get all the oily finger prints off the metal atm is proving more difficult than I thought... Should have got some gloves.

I won't be doing the black until tomorrow anyway as I want to give the primer 24 hours before I spray on top of it so I'll just pop down and change it.

clone · 13 Sep 2011 at 09:41

Latex glove i got some at tesco 14 pairs for £1

This is how i spray primer.
First light coat give it 15-20mins to touch dry then another light coat until im happy it`s covered,then i leave it to dry overnite this way it will be fully cured and ready for topcoat.
Problem is when it`s wet outside it will take longer for the primer/paint to dry,spraying primer in the damp is ok but dont do it when it come`s to top coat.

You do know you can get the inside of a pc powdercoated for about £60 odd the main benefit from this is you can throw in some hd cages and pci blanking plates and get them done for nothing.

RollerBall · 13 Sep 2011 at 09:44

clone said:
Latex glove i got some at tesco 14 pairs for £1
This is how i spray primer.
First light coat give it 15-20mins to touch dry then another light coat until im happy it`s covered,then i leave it to dry overnite this way it will be fully cured and ready for topcoat.
Problem is when it`s wet outside it will take longer for the primer/paint to dry,spraying primer in the damp is ok but dont do it when it come`s to top coat.

You do know you can get the inside of a pc powdercoated for about £60 odd the main benefit from this is you can throw in some hd cages and pci blanking plates and get them done for nothing.

In between those light coats of primer you dry sand? I've got a 1200 & 2000 grit I picked up for a few quid. I was planning on leaving it overnight and then sanding/washing just before the top coat then doing the same with that.

Yeah, I wanted to get it it powder coated originally. However, the places near me quoted me £100 and to get it shipped to a PC shop or similar would cost me more or less the same on postage. £60 for painting and ~£15 each way for postage.

The paint/sand paper/etc all in only cost me ~£25.

I'm just giving all the panels a rub down with a scotch pad at the moment but it's making quite an uneven scratch pattern I think. Some of the panels are quite awkward so they don't have all the scratches going the same way. I'm just giving them a light rub so they mostly appear scratched then I'm going to give them all a wash in warm soapy water and let them dry before I start spraying.

clone · 13 Sep 2011 at 10:06

I dont sand between coats of primer i do with topcoat.
400 grit is best to prep panels for primer you only need etch primer when it`s bare metal/ally.

Hot soapy water with wet & dry,it dont matter what the panel look`s like as long as it`s all scored with the sandpaper as the primer need`s them to stick to it.

Better remove the name of that shop

Link to my guid.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18200687&highlight=username_clone

RollerBall · 13 Sep 2011 at 10:26

clone said:
I dont sand between coats of primer i do with topcoat.
400 grit is best to prep panels for primer you only need etch primer when it`s bare metal/ally.

Hot soapy water with wet & dry,it dont matter what the panel look`s like as long as it`s all scored with the sandpaper as the primer need`s them to stick to it.

Better remove the name of that shop

Link to my guid.
http://forums.overclockers.co.uk/showthread.php?t=18200687&highlight=username_clone

Cheers for the guide. Just found some unopened marigolds under the sink so going to give them ago to save me going to the shop.

I'm using an etch primer atm, well about to. I'm just using this scotch cloth to make sure it's really smooth to give it something extra to bite into. I'm going to give it a test spray onto something like a PCI slot/corner guard of the mobo plate and see what it turns out like after the 30 minutes. Will I be able to tell after the first coat/drying of first coat if I need to sand the panels more or not?

Sorry about all the questions, first time ever spraying something and don't want to trash an expensive case!

clone · 13 Sep 2011 at 10:34

No problem mate any question`s just ask away

that`s what we are here for.