Painting stainless steel

samcat · 9 Dec 2006 at 00:33

Mark A said:
This is the current state of the psu case, as you can see its mostly copper now.

Give it a coat of lacquer and slap it in like that.

Looks funky.

Sam C

Mark A · 9 Dec 2006 at 21:24

samcat said:
Give it a coat of lacquer and slap it in like that.

Looks funky.

Sam C

LOL, medieval style PSU, hmmmm. Well still no primer, although i wouldn't of had time to do any painting today anyway as i had my first driving lesson

.

Mark A · 11 Dec 2006 at 21:21

My primer has arrived and according to the back of the can its suitable for priming alu stainless steel and bare metal. Ill try it out on a small area and leave overnight to see if it does what it says on the tin lol.

Soupyuk · 11 Dec 2006 at 21:51

Nice one just make sure you degrease the area first and do not 'hammer the paint on' in that do not try to get as much as you can on in go. :eek:

Let me know how you get on

Mark A · 11 Dec 2006 at 22:02

Cheers

, whats the best method of degreasing?. Ive sanded lightly again just to get to fresh metal and wiped over with a dry cloth to get any dust off. Will i need to wash with water or white spirit or something?.

Soupyuk · 11 Dec 2006 at 22:15

If you do not have access to a panel wipe or degreaser then white spirit will do ok. You are basically removing any grime/grease/dust and even where your fingers have been to a certain extent. Once de-greased/cleaned it is best to wear gloves (not blinkin wollen ones neither) :eek:

Latex ones will do like the ones you get from diy shop. This is basically to protect your hands and also protect the substrate from your acidity in your fingers. I have worked with guys who had that much acidity in their fingers/hands that once they touched the panel nothing would stick if the panel was not degreased and their finger marks would show through. With painting it is all about the prep work take your time you get good results. Just as a for instance if you touch brushed stainless and your fingers mark the panel de-greaser will not clean it due to the acid in your finger tips you have to use white vinegar to clean the panel.

Hell I'm rambling now White spirit will do

Mark A · 11 Dec 2006 at 22:58

No not at all im grateful for all the help

. Ok ill give it a wipe down and put a coat on, fingers crossed

. Its got a different srpay nozzle than all the other spray cans ive used, its sprays the paint out in a line.

collisster · 11 Dec 2006 at 23:21

can someone help me in how to remove a cover from a PSU without shocking myself to death, also is there a way I can do it without voiding my warranty ? i know this is unlikely but anyways , how to get the cover off safely, its a hiper 580W modular PSU

Mark A · 12 Dec 2006 at 01:22

What i did was to leave it unplugged for a few days and then i was just very careful not to touch any of the innards. You may need to desolder the switch and kettle lead socket like i did so you will need a soldering iron. I dont think there is a way you can do it without voiding the warranty as you have to break the warranty seal in order to open the PSU.

collisster · 12 Dec 2006 at 17:16

k thanks, i think the warranty on my hiper is only a year, one broke sent it back and then the warranty on this one just carrys on from the last so the warranty is up now

Mark A · 15 Dec 2006 at 00:24

Hi, just thought id post a quick pic of my progress. Ive put 2 coats of this etch primer on and it seems to have stuck to the copper

, i did the scratch with nail test and the primer just went shiny where my nail was scratching it.

This is the grey primer, should i put a couple of coats of this on over the top of the etch primer or just put the cellulose black paint on over the top of the etch?. The etch primer ive been using says "fast drying acrylic filling - anticorrosive primer".

Sorry fopr all the noob questions but i just want to get it right after all this work

.

Thanks

Mark

Mark A · 17 Dec 2006 at 19:18

this is after about 4 coats of black paint and 2 coats of primer. Im pleased with the result, i was after a similar sheen to that of the eclipse case interior and its a pretty close match. Im going to leave it a few days to harden now before putting it back together.

Soupyuk · 18 Dec 2006 at 18:57

Well done m8ty. Looks all ok, if you only used a cellulose then it should dry very quickly as long as you didnt 'Hammer the paint on' and left a good 15-20 mins between coats, longer if it was in the garage and cold. You will be able to get a good indication of how dry it is by putting your nose right onto the painted (ensure no boogers there first :eek:

) and smelling. If it stinks then still solvents coming out. Make sure it is fairly warm where you store it. Good job you will be doing Lorries next

Mark A · 18 Dec 2006 at 23:50

Lol, i think ill leave that to the experts

. Ive put it all back together and plugged it into an old rig and it didn't explode \o/, and looks very nice to boot.
Here are a couple of pictures of the almost finished PSU.