PC Not POSTing (STRIX Z270E)

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:26

Dear Overclockers,

I once again post from my Laptop. I used my PC for a quick 30 minutes this morning before work to just watch a little YouTube and play a bit of WoW.

I've so far, come back home and the PC doesn't seem to want to switch on. I thought this was strange since I could see my Motherboard is still illuminating through the case, the System Stand By LED is on, should all be hunky dory? but it's not, it doesn't power up any fans or anything.

So far I've tried:-

Clearing the CMOS (metal screwdriver on the CLRTC pins)
Switching my RAM around
Re-setting the System Power Front Panel Jumpers

Is there anything blatantly obvious I could try without dismantling my PC since it's very demoralizing having to do that during a work week

ED209 · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:31

Have you tried re seating the 24 pin and 8 pin connecters to the mobo?

may sound silly but have you tried a new power cable or checked the fuse in the current one?

Could try connecting the power cable for the PC directly to the wall socket or trying a different socket

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:42

Forgot a picture, hope that's not too big

It's clearly powered, but still won't switch on.

Unsure if there's any way I can switch on the PC direct from the motherboard like my old mobo.

ED209 · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:46

Is it the PC in your sig, what make mobo is it?

the red light in the top right, is this a power light to the mobo or a light for the ram? my X58 mobo has a memory light next to it that comes on at first boot but then goes off but this indicates if there is any ram issues or configuration issues with the ram.

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:49

Sorry, my signature is old.

Processor: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz (Kaby Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor (OC'd to 4.7Ghz with BIOS Wizard)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S Ultra-Quiet Slim CPU Cooler with NF-A15 Fan
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-25600C16 3200MHz Dual Channel Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B32
Hard Drive: Samsung 960 EVO Polaris 500GB M.2 2280 PCI-e 3.0 x4 NVMe, 3 SSD SATA-III + 4TB SATA-II Hard Drives (3)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 DirectCU II OC Strix 4096MB GDDR5
Monitor: Samsung SyncMaster 2494HS + SyncMaster B2430
Speakers/Headphones: Plantronics GameCom USB (Headset) / Logitech Z-10 Speakers
Keyboard: Steelseries RAW
Mouse: Razer Lachesis 5600DPI
Operating System: Windows 7 Professional 64-bit
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z270E Gaming Intel Z270 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX
Computer Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow
PSU: Antec High Current Gamer M 750W "80+ Bronze" Modular PSU

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:51

ED209 said:
the red light in the top right, is this a power light to the mobo or a light for the ram?

It's the Standby Power LED

ED209 · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:55

When you turn the computer on does any of the POST state LEDs come on? they are just above the 24 pin connecter.

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 20:59

The LEDS above the 24 pin connector are indeed the CPU (RED), DRAM (YELLOW), VGA (WHITE) & BOOT DEVICE (GREEN).

Pressing the Power Button doesn't activate anything, no fans spin, no LED lights come on, it's as though I've not pressed anything and I don't know how to switch on the mobo manually just to rule out if there's something wrong with the Power Switch.

adrichardson81 · 20 Mar 2017 at 21:02

PSU? You can test with a paperclip. The lights being on doesn't necessarily mean anything's home...

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 21:21

Seems to be powering up again, this surge protector multiplug seems to be the problem

I'm sorry for wasting peoples time and I'm very thankful for your help.

ED209 · 20 Mar 2017 at 21:24

glad to hear its now working

Triad-X · 20 Mar 2017 at 21:26

I'm genuinely sorry, my logic dictates that it has to be PC hardware related, not plug related. I feel so stupid right now.

ED209 · 20 Mar 2017 at 21:29

Not the first time they have caused issues with PC's booting.

did say to try the power cable directly in to a plug socket

lol

main thing is its working and you can use it again

Habakkuk · 20 Mar 2017 at 22:00

Surge protector plugs can wear away either in one big jolt, or a thousand little ones - I'd recommend replacing your surge protector.

Masterplug are the brand i use/recommend to friends/random internet strangers.

Triad-X · 21 Mar 2017 at 18:12

Weird, exact same thing is happening again, except the PSU is plugged directly in the wall socket as it was yesterday, and this morning when I last used it before work. Somethings not right here

Plec · 21 Mar 2017 at 18:20

You've got quite a few HDDs hooked up - have you tried running a skeleton setup and testing if it will boot up?

Disable all drives except the OS, 1 stick of memory, and onboard GFX if you have it. If it powers up consistently start adding things bit by bit.

Paper clip test maybe required though plus a memtest blast if it powers up.

Also, check that the motherboard isn't loose etc - you may have a intermittent shorting issue.

Triad-X · 21 Mar 2017 at 19:55

Still out of action.

Took off all the modular pieces connected to the hard drives, my OS hard drive is an M.2 so that'll be ok.

I've taken off the Battery for the mobo to reset the CMOS, taken off my RAM and sat one in.

I've finally justgotten round to doing the paper clip test, nothing spins...but I'm not sure if I'm doing it correctly, as in, how deep it's suppose to go.

Triad-X · 21 Mar 2017 at 20:46

Right, tested the Paper clip trick on my Old PC and it works, so I'm at least performing it correctly while my New PC PSU is still out.

Guess I've no choice but to RMA at this point.

Can someone suggest a reliable PSU? My previous and current are both Antecs (Old: Antec Truepower 750W / New: Antec High Current Gamer M 750W "80+ Bronze" Modular PSU). It's a shame since my old Antec served me for 7+ years.

Also, have I been naive to use the same stamped Power Output PSU on a rig that's significantly more powerful?

New Rig:-
Processor: Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz (Kaby Lake) Socket LGA1151 Processor (OC'd to 4.7Ghz with BIOS Wizard)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U14S Ultra-Quiet Slim CPU Cooler with NF-A15 Fan
Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 PC4-25600C16 3200MHz Dual Channel Kit - Black (CMK16GX4M2B32
Hard Drive: Samsung 960 EVO Polaris 500GB M.2 2280 PCI-e 3.0 x4 NVMe, 3 SSD SATA-III + 4TB SATA-II Hard Drives (3)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 DirectCU II OC Strix 4096MB GDDR5
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix Z270E Gaming Intel Z270 (Socket 1151) DDR4 ATX
Computer Case: Corsair Obsidian 750D Airflow
PSU: Antec High Current Gamer M 750W "80+ Bronze" Modular PSU

Old Rig:-
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7 CPU 950 @ 3.07GHz (8 CPUs), OC'd to ~4.0GHz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus CPU Cooler
Memory: Corsair XMS3 12GB (3x4GB) DDR3 PC3-12800 C9 1600MHz Triple Channel (9-9-9-24) (Adjusted Timing 8-8-8-18)
Hard Drive: Samsung 500GB 840 EVO, 3 SSD SATA-III + 4TB SATA-II Hard Drives (3)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 970 DirectCU II OC Strix 4096MB GDDR5
Motherboard: ASUS Xtreme P6X58D-E
Computer Case: Antec 900 Gaming Case
PSU: Antec Truepower 750W

Only items moved from old to new are the Hard drives with exception to SSDs.

orbitalwalsh · 22 Mar 2017 at 16:00

I've used bequiet ( expensive) , Superflower & EVGA ( superflower make EVGAs) and would recommend those . also used the new cheap brand Konik or what ever its called for budget builds, actually quite good! if your short on cash

Habakkuk · 22 Mar 2017 at 18:53

I'm a fan of AX860's myself - midline Corsair PSU's are pretty stable.