pH level in the loop

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Hey guys, when I set up my loop with DI water and biocide the pH level of the water was showing at around 6 - 7, but since then I've added a corrosion inhibitor as well. Anyways, I checked the pH level again yesterday (dying the water red, so wanted to check before the dye skewed results) and its gone to around pH 10 - 11 since adding the corrosion inhibitor... Is this far too alkaline and likely to damage anything, or is it safer to be on that side of the scale rather than be too acidic?

Cheers in advance for any advice :D
 
Made an error in the original post, I'm actually using your ultra pure H2O not DI water... Forgot I'd bought that! Anyways, to the answers! I'm currently using Mayhems Extreme Biocide and the corrosion inhibitor shown in the pic, both used at their recommended ratios.

Is it likely to damage anything in the system if it's left at those levels (only currently been like it for a couple of weeks) or should I just leave it until the next time I need to drain the loop? Cheers Mayhems :)

30009_1.jpg
 
Would love to answer your question how ever WTF :eek: is that stuff lol. We have never seen it before lol. We cannot even say if it works with our biocide :/
 
Seems to be made by a German company called Aquatuning, who have a UK website. I would post the link, but technically the website could be a competitor.

From the little German I understand, it seems to say it doesn't contain Glycol. Also seems to suggest it's for systems containing copper and aluminium if that makes sense?
 
Oh dear, guess I should probably drain the loop AGAIN then and chuck the stuff out :D

I'll get this right eventually if it kills me lol any particular brand / product you'd recommend, or should I just go with pre mixed so I can't balls it up again?! :D
 
Or, rather than go through the ball ache of draining the loop and bleeding it all again, do you think it would be OK to just massively dilute it by repeatedly emptying the reservoir (I have a tap on the pump), refilling with more H20, running for 10 seconds and repeating half dozen or so times to get most of the corrosion inhibitor out? Would save a lot of hassle so might try this first unless you REALLY don't recommend my random German chemicals :D
 
That's some more positive news, can I ask how much of it you put in? Hoping I haven't completely balls'd up and misunderstood the German label :P
 
Ah that's good news, I put about ¼ of it into a loop that holds 1l, so shouldn't be too far out then! Tempted to maybe just dilute it down a bit now, recheck the pH and see how it goes...
 
"Bezotriazol" on the label? shouldn't it be Benzotriazol?
This is a suppressant against staining copper if theres an active sulphur content.

Or something along those lines.
Without being too specific its acids that attack metals and not alkyl's - apart from caustic on aluminium (melts its)
 
So in theory, the worst it should do is stop the biocide from working properly, but it shouldn't do any long term damage to components? Need a degree in chemistry to understand this watercooling malarkey :D
 
No the biocide will continue to work as both this and benzotriazol are used in soluble oils.

I'll ask at work tomorrow (oil refinery lol) if the high ph would cause an issue/ can be rectified.
Normally an acid (Boric) can be added to neutralise it but i'm sure there's something lying around your house than can be used.

LOL its probably easier to empty and refill. Haven't you thought of using a silver coil to kill the bacteria?
 
That would be awesome cheers, but you're right, should probably drain it and refill but it's just finding the time to do it atm, and bleeding the loop again gives me nightmares lol

I actually went a bit overkill and added a silver bullet as well. I know you don't NEED both but me being me... Why not?! :D
 
didn't see that name -Bezotriazol is corrosion inhibitor, ultraviolet light stabilizer for plastics and anti fog agent in photography. How ever only a few drops are needed. You only need f 0.01-2.0% ratio at max. Its very environmentally unstable and should not be poured down the drain when finished with.
 
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Damn, so the mixture ratio it gave on the website is a mile out! Cheers Mayhems, I'll gradually flush the loop out with some fresh Pure H20 until it's at a more sensible level :)

Now that you know what's in it, would you recommend using it in a standard loop? Using Pure H20, Mayhems biocide and red dye apart from the inhibitor. And don't worry, if I run into any issues caused by my own stupidity I won't blame it all on your water lol
 
That's OK but thanks for the offer Mick, I'm sure you're busy enough without idiots like me taking up your time! I'll drain the loop (or massively dilute it) over the weekend if I get time, hopefully bring it back down to nearer pH7. On the plus side at least my constant balls-ups are keeping your Pure H20 flying off the OcUK shelves lol :)
 
lol, im going to take a look into it at some point my concerns are more over the environmental impact of using such products tbh. More of an interest thing than any thing to do with Mayhems.
 
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