Photomerge - does it really do this?

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Hi all

Ive been working with photo merge for landscapes for some time now.

I usually use M setting, keep the aperture and shutter speed the same for each shot, sometimes use a filter sometimes don’t, sometimes use auto settings sometimes dont...ive tried a variety of things.

But when i merge my images, if its a daylight shot, i always get those silly lines between the underexposed and overexposed sky. See pickie here to see what i mean. .I haven’t edited this shot in any way past merging.

Is this what is suppose to happen or do i just have a basic photo merge program (only elements 5).

I do know that i have to edit the picture after merging, and i also use the clone and stamp tool, as well as the healing tool, but i find that sometimes the differences in color are so vast that i end up ruining the photo with too much editing.

Is there an better way to photo merge or am i doing something wrong with taking the picture?

Input would be appreciated.
Cheers
 
you need to go manual and most importantly lock your white balance too... if you dont even though the exposures are the same it will still look wrong.
 
My understanding of panorama photography is that they should be taken in manual mode all at the same settings and from as near as the same point as possible. I have been fiddling with PTGui and a fisheye lens to create 360 panoramas and the few I have tried so far have worked quite well as this software corrects for exposure differences etc. My first attempt was a non 360 one made of several pictures which it did a pretty good job of stitching: http://www.360cities.net/image/kragero I think you can download a free trial of PTGui so it might be worth a fiddle to see if it is your software creating the problem.

Dave
 
Set everything to manual, before taking any photos set your exposure and rotate around to make sure your exposure is going to be good for every shot you take. Also be aware that sun flare can wash a photo out so use a lens hood and just be aware of it.

I think the problem you're having is that there's something on auto, ISO maybe? Since you said you keep aperture and shutter at a set value that's the only thing other than white balance that I can think of.
 
Ive been using the photomerge function on PS for a few months now. Like mentioned already, you literally have to manually dial in everything. ISO, shutter, aperture and white balance are the main thing, I also prefocus onto a subject and turn off auto focus when taking the shots.
 
Set everything to manual, before taking any photos set your exposure and rotate around to make sure your exposure is going to be good for every shot you take. Also be aware that sun flare can wash a photo out so use a lens hood and just be aware of it.

I think the problem you're having is that there's something on auto, ISO maybe? Since you said you keep aperture and shutter at a set value that's the only thing other than white balance that I can think of.

All my settings have been set manually, even ISO and white balance. I took another this morning which im just putting together now using both the free programme and Elements 5....watch this space!
 
Ive been using the photomerge function on PS for a few months now. Like mentioned already, you literally have to manually dial in everything. ISO, shutter, aperture and white balance are the main thing, I also prefocus onto a subject and turn off auto focus when taking the shots.

So what version of PS are you using?
 
OK the following two panoramas are from the same pictures taken this am. ISO 200; exp 1/200, f-number 4.5 at 70mm focal length.

One was processed in Elements 5 ( ) and the other PTGui trial version ( ). I have not edited either of the pictures once the merge was complete.

Im quite happier with the PTGui version myself in relation to the consistency of the exposure of the sky.
 
As mentioned above - everything to manual.
I'd also bracket your exposures if it includes sky.

When shooting horizontal panos, turn the camera to portrait orientation.
When shooting vertical panos, use landscape orientation.
 
As mentioned above - everything to manual.
I'd also bracket your exposures if it includes sky.

When shooting horizontal panos, turn the camera to portrait orientation.
When shooting vertical panos, use landscape orientation.

I would have thought it was the opposite way around....why do you use portrait for a landscape shots and lanscape for portrait shots?
 
I think it is because lenses tend to have highest distortion at the vertical (short) edges of the frame, so by using frames taken in the opposite orientation, the horizontal edges are the ones being merged, so you get a less obvious join.
 
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