Plumbing advice

[Lean]

Get one with a brass shank (thread). The job probably started with the nut just needing nipping up but after replacing the washer you may have over tightened and the plastic shank has cracked.
You said earlier that its a 3/4" shank. They are either 1/2" (majority) or 3/8" (european).
Also look for a quiet fast fill entry valve and remember to adjust the height of the valve to suit your cistern

 

[IvanDobskey]

Just been measuring again and it is definitely bigger diameter than half inch. Very odd.

I can't even find one 3/4 inch. Will measure again later.

 

[Simon42]

Just been measuring again and it is definitely bigger diameter than half inch. Very odd.

I can't even find one 3/4 inch. Will measure again later.

I think you may be measuring the wrong dimension. Plumbing fittings sometimes refer to OD (Outside Diameter), sometimes ID. A 1/2" toilet fill valve is nearer 3/4" externally - I've just measured a spare I keep in case of issues and its about that OD but its a 1/2 fitting and fits my 1/2 copper connectors.

I saw someone recently almost walk away from Screwfix because they wanted 43mm solvent weld waste pipe and the staff say we don't stock it, but that's just the OD of 40mm solvent weld waste pipe (push fit 40mm is about 41 OD). Welcome to the vague world of plumbing!

 

[gingergundog]

Just been measuring again and it is definitely bigger diameter than half inch. Very odd.

I can't even find one 3/4 inch. Will measure again later.

Its definitely 1/2"

No need to measure anything, just get the valve that was linked in this thread or the same one that comes with a brass shank(less chance of cross threading).

 

[IvanDobskey]

A quick pic, probably half inch inside the pipe.

 

[200sols]

25mm nut suggests its a 3/4" BSP thread but reading the measurement from the angle is tough.

Simple way just put the nut from the 15mm valve up to it and see, you'll know instantly if its 1/2" or not.

 

[IvanDobskey]

I think I'll take the fill valve out and take it into b&q to compare

 

[gingergundog]

Its a 15mm isolation valve attached to 15mm pipe with a 15mm - 1/2" bent tap connector which is attached to the inlet valve.

You only need the inside diameter measurement, everything else is irrelevant.

 

[IvanDobskey]

Ok, quick update. Finally got round to having another fiddle with this. Tried some different washers, but just couldn't seem to get the nut tight enough. So I replaced the inlet valve assembly with one that has a brass thread. Initially it was still gushing out, but I kept tightening the nut and eventually all leaks stopped

 

[mickyflinn]

Ok, quick update. Finally got round to having another fiddle with this. Tried some different washers, but just couldn't seem to get the nut tight enough. So I replaced the inlet valve assembly with one that has a brass thread. Initially it was still gushing out, but I kept tightening the nut and eventually all leaks stopped

Putting a bit of PTFE tape around the washer helps take up any imperfections and seals the joint .

Glad you fixed it

 

[IvanDobskey]

Putting a bit of PTFE tape around the washer helps take up any imperfections and seals the joint .

Glad you fixed it

Will bear that in mind in case it drips at all. Ok so far though, touch wood

 

[Simon42]

Fibre washers expand a little once wet so its not uncommon for them to be a bit of a pain to get sealed when first inserted, but once fully damp they usually seal and if not can be tightened a bit more as they'll form to tiny imperfections better then.

 

[IvanDobskey]

So the saga continues The valve mechanism is now leaking inside the cistern! So the cistern is constantly filling / emptying. I've tried tightening all the plastic nuts etc, still no dice. So it looks like taking it back for a refund and trying a different one. Fantastic, that's my Sunday sorted

 

[IvanDobskey]

Had to give up and take it back to b&q for a refund. Got a different product from Wickes now and all is good

Fingers crossed...

 

[BennyC]

Late to the party... brass shanked fill valves are much better, particularly if novice as it's easy to overtighten and strip the threads on plastic.

To establish where something is actually leaking tying some loo-roll above the suspected joint is a good way to ID if the culprit is further up (i.e.) the fill valve.

You can get fill valves with flex-hoses, they're quite long but leaving it coiled once around itself with a cable tie would be fine, so long as it's not kinked. If too short for space then I would turn off mains, open taps to drain then open iso valve before cutting pipe, cleaning off paint etc and reinstalling 10cm or so to the right.

Flexible Tap Connector with Valve 15mm x 1/2" x 300mm - Screwfix

If you didn't want to remove the iso valve then I think this has already been shared:

Where did the fibre washer come from? I'd expect the brass nut on the fill valve in to the cistern to have rubber. Fibre washers tend to be on service valves where the fill valve couples directly to the isolating valve. Like this.

 

[IvanDobskey]

Late to the party... brass shanked fill valves are much better, particularly if novice as it's easy to overtighten and strip the threads on plastic.

To establish where something is actually leaking tying some loo-roll above the suspected joint is a good way to ID if the culprit is further up (i.e.) the fill valve.

You can get fill valves with flex-hoses, they're quite long but leaving it coiled once around itself with a cable tie would be fine, so long as it's not kinked. If too short for space then I would turn off mains, open taps to drain then open iso valve before cutting pipe, cleaning off paint etc and reinstalling 10cm or so to the right.

Flexible Tap Connector with Valve 15mm x 1/2" x 300mm - Screwfix

If you didn't want to remove the iso valve then I think this has already been shared:

Where did the fibre washer come from? I'd expect the brass nut on the fill valve in to the cistern to have rubber. Fibre washers tend to be on service valves where the fill valve couples directly to the isolating valve. Like this.

I fixed the original problem with a brass shank and a new washer. But then the new valve was leaking inside the cistern. After replacing it with a different product, all is good Cheers.