Plumbing help

[bushmins]

Hi. Typically in this time of lock down I have found a leaking pipe. Looking at the plasterboard under the pipe I can see its been leaking for a long time, ever since the boiler was fitted 5 years ago.

Its in an awful place. There is no room to get a compression fitting to replace the 22mm elbow.
So should I desolder it all, including the 22mm elbow and replace it all with solder ring connectors (Apart from the 22mm elbow, which will have to be one with out the solder ring)? I have found a 15x15x22 T connector, but I'll have to buy a 2 meter length of 22mm pipe to.
Maybe I should leave the 22mm elbow on and clean one end out? I'll need to buy solder since I have run out and I'm not sure I have enough gas in my blow torch, so might have to buy one as well and they are not cheap. All in all the costs are going to be quite high, maybe even more than getting a plumber out. So maybe I should get a plumber out tomorrow, but are they even doing call outs at the moment?

 

[bushmins]

I'm also wondering if I used a 15x15x22 compression Tee, will that work on pipes that have had solder on them? I could clean the two 15mm pipe end off but is it likely to leak?

BTW the leak is coming from where the 22m elbow and reducer are soldered. Also the 15mm pipe on the right is easly movable.

If I got this
https://www.screwfix.com/p/compression-reducing-tee-15-x-15-x-22mm/67013
And this
https://www.screwfix.com/p/endex-copper-end-feed-equal-90-elbows-22mm-5-pack/9097g

As well as some 22mm pipe. I would be sorted, but its the solder and blow torch on top thats costing a lot.

 

[bremen1874]

I'd be tempted to use some plumbing repair epoxy putty. It'd certainly fix it until life returns to normal, if not permanently.

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Could slap some of that black sealer stuff over it
Forget the name of it at the moment
It seals even if wet assuming it is not a high pressure leak
I used it to seal a water block where the acrylic cracked past the O ring
Worked great
Threw the tube out so can't look for the name but got it from screw fix or toolstation

 

[bushmins]

I have got self amalgamating tape which would work, probably for a long time, maybe I should do that. I was hoping to screw the floor down and continue working on the room, its all part of my 'keeping my mind sane' work during lock down!
Thinking about it, its is a dumb idea to get a plumber in here. I'm currently off work looking after my partner who is struggling to get over covid 19 (Although shes well past the quarantine time, she has asma and it effected her lungs badly).

Thanks guys! I think I just needed people to bounce ideas off! I'll quick fix it and keep the plumbers safe and I'll stay indoors.

 

[Mcnumpty2323]

Yeah if can self repair it much better
For one even if could get a plumber it
May cost even more than normal
If they're in short supply
And secondly you would be having to watch everything he touched like a hawk
And sanitising afterwards
Just to be safe
Hope your partner gets better soon mate
Mines in high risk group too
So we self isolated weeks before boris
Recommended it as a precaution

 

[Orionaut]

Hi. Typically in this time of lock down I have found a leaking pipe. Looking at the plasterboard under the pipe I can see its been leaking for a long time, ever since the boiler was fitted 5 years ago.

Its in an awful place. There is no room to get a compression fitting to replace the 22mm elbow.
So should I desolder it all, including the 22mm elbow and replace it all with solder ring connectors (Apart from the 22mm elbow, which will have to be one with out the solder ring)? I have found a 15x15x22 T connector, but I'll have to buy a 2 meter length of 22mm pipe to.
Maybe I should leave the 22mm elbow on and clean one end out? I'll need to buy solder since I have run out and I'm not sure I have enough gas in my blow torch, so might have to buy one as well and they are not cheap. All in all the costs are going to be quite high, maybe even more than getting a plumber out. So maybe I should get a plumber out tomorrow, but are they even doing call outs at the moment?

And this is why I always do things myself rather than employ a "Professional"

Whenever I install anything like this I am always thinking "How can I lay all this out so I can get at it later for modifications or repair"

Whereas the standard professional is thinking "How can I cram all this in using the cheapest fittings, the least amount of copper piping and by spending the least amount of time and sod any possible future consequences."

The last time I had a "Professional" in my house was when I had a Water meter fitted (Not my choice, water companies contractor) The next day, when I was using the washing machine, the water hammer from the internal valving blew the pipe off the meter and would have flooded my basement had I not been at home.

Needless to say, I fixed it myself!

 

[FlyingFish]

Best way to fix that would be to cut the 22mm on the horizontal above and unsweat the reducer off the 15mm upstand, and then remake it all with a new 22mm elbow and reducer. If you do this yourself, make sure none of the neighbouring pipes are gas, and use a heat mat. Whether you use Yorkshire fittings or not is up to you

 

[bushmins]

Best way to fix that would be to cut the 22mm on the horizontal above and unsweat the reducer off the 15mm upstand, and then remake it all with a new 22mm elbow and reducer. If you do this yourself, make sure none of the neighbouring pipes are gas, and use a heat mat. Whether you use Yorkshire fittings or not is up to you

I had not thought of that. But it will end up costing me less to use solder ring fittings and replace the lot, to keep the Tee I would need to buy solder and I have not used anything other that solder ring connections before. I was thinking of cutting through the small bit of pipe between the reducer and Tee. Getting the 22mm elbow off. Then getting the Tee off the left 15mm pipe, there will be plenty of movment on the Tee and right hand side 15mm pipe. Then replace the lot with solder ring 15x15x22 Tee, a bit of 22mm pipe (Which I found a small bit in my shed) and a solder ring 22mm elbow (Which I also found in my shed). If I clean up the two 15mm pipes and the 22mm ends they should resolder as far as I am aware.
I'm hoping I'll have enough gas in my torch, but if not I saw a few people using a heat gun to heat solder ring pipes.
I tried using a bit of self amalgamating tape but it didnt work, so this has been driving me mad all day. All I really need to buy is a new Tee, but I'm sure I'll get a few spares as well.

 

[FlyingFish]

Only thing I can say with that plan....Is good luck
Unsoldering pipes is not the easiest job as it involves all water being removed, any drips will cool the copper sufficiently so that the solder will not run.
The reducer is less likely to have this issue as its not in a location where water can pool, the 22 is cut above so any drips will leak at that point.
And above all, you normally need room to grab and twist and pull when separating joints. My method above gives you a way to twist the reducer off the 15mm pipe above the 15mm Tee, using the 22mm elbow as leverage/handle.

 

[bushmins]

What you cant see in the photos is that there is no floor down, so loads of room to yank things. Also the right hand pipe is just a straight pipe with a cap on (Ready for extending). So getting water out of the pipes will also be easy. Its a hot water feed but from a combie, so turning the stop **** off/opening all house hold taps stops everything. I do see what you are saying, I'll have to think on it. I'm just a bit iffy on my soldering skills. Thanks for your suggestions, even if they do give me pause and make me rethink my carefully laid plans , I appreciate it.
On the Tee peice does it look like there is a small peice of 15mm pipe and then a reducer?

 

[FlyingFish]

Yes thats right, and the reducer straight into the 22mm elbow. Unsoldering joints is perfectly workable, just take care when you rotate and pull them apart to not distort/mishape anything you plan on reusing. Hot (use blow torch) solder can also be wiped from a pipe with a dry cloth if you plan on using the pipe end again. This takes excess solder off so it slides back into a fitting.

 

[rexehuk]

I'd LSX it personally for now, else I'd probably cut the 22mm back. Straight coupling (with new 22) to reducer and just redo the section.

 

[ron3003]

Another vote for Fernox LSX applied to this. It'll likely hold it until the seep seals itself with limescale

 

[bushmins]

The only trouble with cutting the 22m pipe is there there is no movment in it what so ever.

 

[FlyingFish]

22mm slip joint, or make one yourself

 

[bushmins]

What do you think about hacksawing the 22mm? Its likely going to be a bit wonkey, not like the nice edge my pipe cutting tool would leave.

I got a quote by the way. £180 for 2 hours work and parts. Proabaly a fair quote (Although I'm not sure it would take a pro 2 hours), but not when I know I can do it myself.

I'm going to have a go at it tomorrow morning. I went out and bought all the necessary parts to do it either way, so I'll have a think and **** it all up in the morning

 

[FlyingFish]

If you've drained the pipe work and have made access then should just be an hour to chop out replace and test. Heating pipework takes longer, depending on refilling and venting.

 

[FlyingFish]

Oh and there's no reason for wonky hack sawing, it aint rocket science, and you have room! Just deburr the edge with a file or similar and dont leave any swarf in the pipe that will ruin tap valves

Edit, use a thin shield of something so you dont nick the neighbouring pipe.

 

[ChroniC]

I'm not a plumber but I have a suggestion that would be pretty easy and cost only 20quid ish...
Heat up the 15mm T and reducer and remove them.. Cut the 15mm back either side of the T..
Fit a 22mm push fit reducer (assuming there is enough room before the bend to get it to fit on), a small bit of push fit pipe from the reducer to a push fit T and then connect those back up to the cut 15mm either side.

It would require a 22mm reducer, a short length of push fit pipe, a T and two push fit couplers.
Doesn't require any soldering or cutting of the 22mm and can be done in 20mins.

Only issue I can see is that the distance from the T to where you cut the 15mm back might not be enough room to bend in the plastic pipe if it's not perfectly level.

Pipe inserts..

15mm couplers

T fitting

Reducer.

You might require one of these.