Power Boosting Oil

Do these things actually work or are they just an extra dose of the lubricant additives already in your engine oil?

The basic idea is the same as wrinkle cream filling up wrinkles so they look smoother. On a microscopic level the surface of metal is pitted/scraped etc (it looks like valleys up close) and these additives "fill-in" these areas with nano sized balls. After enough pressure the balls breakdown (shed their skin like an onion) which then fills in the valleys and helps flatten out the surface, allowing the 2 metal surfaces to glide along each others valleys with less friction and heat. If there's less friction then the engine can turn more freely which gives a slight power increase, although 23hp on the focus above seems way too high unless the car was running 500hp+ as the gain should be around 2-3% max (well within dyno error tolerances) unless there's something wrong with the engine or the old oil was way too thick. We use ZX-1 on our 170hp rally cars engine & gearbox (mechanic gets it "free" from work) and after every strip the block is still fine, although it may still have been using oil alone TBH!

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C60 won't turn into layers.

Anyway that is assuming there is metal to metal contact in the first place. I just don't know how they can claim 24hp gains in midrange but ignore the power drop at the top end.
 
The basic idea is the same as wrinkle cream filling up wrinkles so they look smoother. On a microscopic level the surface of metal is pitted/scraped etc (it looks like valleys up close) and these additives "fill-in" these areas with nano sized balls. After enough pressure the balls breakdown (shed their skin like an onion) which then fills in the valleys and helps flatten out the surface, allowing the 2 metal surfaces to glide along each others valleys with less friction and heat. If there's less friction then the engine can turn more freely which gives a slight power increase, although 23hp on the focus above seems way too high unless the car was running 500hp+ as the gain should be around 2-3% max (well within dyno error tolerances) unless there's something wrong with the engine or the old oil was way too thick. We use ZX-1 on our 170hp rally cars engine & gearbox (mechanic gets it "free" from work) and after every strip the block is still fine, although it may still have been using oil alone TBH!

Chlorinated parafins like ZX1 have been around since before WW2 and the problems they cause with alloys containing copper are well understood. Your engine would be no different internally simply through using a decent oil-its not unusual to still see honing marks in engines with 100k miles one them these days. I certainly wouldn't consider puttng that junk into any engine I owned.
 
Dave Prewett is a member on the FocusSTOC forum. His words:

Yes I am alive and kicking just rather busy. The test I took my car to was a sureal experience. I turned up at JB Racing in Radstock drove straight onto the ramps and they changed the oil (Castrol 0w40) and filter (Ford oem) for Halfords 5w40 and a quick run to get the oil around the system then it RR'd at 320.1bhp and 373.5lbs*** torque. The Astra VXR the shootout was with that was aparently 300bhp threw all its toys out and pulled 257bhp and 300lbs*** torque. We changed the oil and filter again (Genuine Ford filter) and Millers Nanodrive CFS 5w40 oil and had to run the car to 'activate' the nano technology (100 degrees). On returning to JB Racing I could feel it was different. Yes I could feel it was pulling harder. It went straight onto the rollers again and although the power went down to 317bhp the torque went up to 399.7lbs***. Even Dan from Fast Ford didn't understand how just an oil change could do this but the figures were there in front of us.
People may say its tosh etc but the test was on fully calibrated rollers and tested in proper RR conditions.

The nanotech oil on the test 'fills' tiny voids in the engines runnings creating a smoother running engine,after the initial run to get up to the 100 degrees (easy in an ST) the Nano stuff does it's stuff and is activated for the life of the oil.

Odd as it sounds. On my car it works.
 
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