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Priorities in Order Please

Did any of you actually read the opening post? He only wants to you to consider these there things

1) Base clock speed,
2) Temperature recorded at that base speed,
3) Power draw at that base speed

And put them in the order that you think is most important when picking a 1080. Yet you all have went off on tangents about noise, warranties, brand name etc. He specially mentions that you don't include these things.
 
Did any of you actually read the opening post? He only wants to you to consider these there things

1) Base clock speed,
2) Temperature recorded at that base speed,
3) Power draw at that base speed

And put them in the order that you think is most important when picking a 1080. Yet you all have went off on tangents about noise, warranties, brand name etc. He specially mentions that you don't include these things.

Yes, I chose to ignore it as its meaningless for me.
 
1) Noise both at idle and under load
2) Temperature under load
3) Warranty
4) Price

Brand "rep" isn't any kind of consideration. Only suckers are "loyal" to any brand and will end up with an inferior product sooner rather than later, given every company's tendency to screw things up periodically. An example being those who still parrot the line about Sapphire being the only AMD cards worth buying (as their Hawaii/Grenada/Fiji cards were amazing), despite their RX 480 being kind of garbage compared to MSI or XFX's. Or the mess EVGA made of their 1000 series lineup, though I suppose nobody can be blamed for buying those at the time, since the issues weren't known because the paid shills unbiased reviewers failed to mention/spot them.

Can you maybe take the EVGA stuff somewhere else considering it wasn't screwed up, proven to be fine and in the end it was just a few end users making a massive deal out of nothing.

If there was actually an issue there would have been a recall and EVGA are still happy to warrant all their products with no issues about needing to do anything for the 5 years.

This isn't about brands here unless directly about warranty which is the only two thing that should really matter are the previous and aftercare customer service.
 
Did any of you actually read the opening post? He only wants to you to consider these there things

1) Base clock speed,
2) Temperature recorded at that base speed,
3) Power draw at that base speed

And put them in the order that you think is most important when picking a 1080. Yet you all have went off on tangents about noise, warranties, brand name etc. He specially mentions that you don't include these things.

Yep and I explained exactly why they make zero difference and it is all to do with the warranty and without stating that I couldn't point out that to me there is no reason to pick anything until that is first decided.
 
None of the above

1. Are waterblocks available = yes

End of story.:)

This, then i check warranty, which really just means checking the brand.

base clock speeds don't come into it, just the PCB e.g. I would often like a custom PCB for better OC etc, but that will often mean waiting a few months for that to come out, then another few months for the block (if ever). Meaning that by that time, you are close to another release. So practically never gets considered, unless I am not buying near release time.
 
Yes, I chose to ignore it as its meaningless for me.

Haha. to be honest, some peoples views are interesting and rightly said to be fair :)

Its just hearing peoples views on what makes a card grab their attention if the brand was hidden, but you could see its speed, warranty, sound etc .

Not sure about everyone else butnid love an Error code LED on the backplate like motherboards . give users more information if anything is going wrong quickly , maybe ram chip 2/8 has blown, help with RMA process for all parties evolved , or taking a step further like Aquacomouters smart water blocks giving out more read outs
 
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For me it's all about performance, but excessive noise and pricing are big no-nos. Brand is with thinking about. I had a recent RMA take almost 4 weeks with an Inno3d card. I've heard of worse and I've heard of better.

I don't overclock my GPUs.
 
hopefully I haven't stirred any brand vs brand with my first question.

although im surprised b the second with hardly anyone changing the fan profile from the get go...

Maybe a sign of how much the design has changed and with twin/triple open designs, just leaving the reference blowers to be tweaked.

will admit i've always done it but payed more attention the the 1000 series with Boost 3.0 being such a sensitive chap
 
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