I thought you could use any port on the gpu block?
Im sure it said in the manual you can use any port as the inlet and outlet. Ill have to check maybe any inlet/outlet as long they are opposite side like your diagram.
Project - FTH20
- Thread starter Craterloads
- Start date
I thought you could use any port on the gpu block?
Im sure it said in the manual you can use any port as the inlet and outlet. Ill have to check maybe any inlet/outlet as long they are opposite side like your diagram.
Associate
I believe you dont have to have them plumbled so they come out of diffenet sides of the block, eg one up one down. But they must be one left one right.
I have the same block and if you check it doesn't matter what is in our out.
Let me know your temps when you are done so i can compare to a smaller rad please.
Also did you order anything else apart from the fan grills when ordering from the u.s.?, i got a couple of them and a nice bitspower ball valve.
Let me know your temps when you are done so i can compare to a smaller rad please.
Also did you order anything else apart from the fan grills when ordering from the u.s.?, i got a couple of them and a nice bitspower ball valve.
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Associate
That is pretty sweet. Almost magic i would say...
Ive changed it now to as biffa suggested, not much hassle.
Will do once setup, think i put a bit too much paste on to be honest but we will see.
I ordered the Corsair braided cables and the 180mm fan grills from the US. But they sent the wrong size fans grills!! Thankfully they have sent out replacements and they entered the UK on saturday so am hoping they will be with me on monday-tuesday!
Thanks
Ive filled loop with Mayhems yellow now, pics in next post. Also considering changing loop a little, see final post and let me know what you think.
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Ok what im thinking is, if use the top inlet port on the reservoir i might be able to get rid of the top T joint and 2 compression and be able the bend the tube down to the bottom T joint. That should in theory help the flow a liitle? what do you think?
Shouldnt be too difficult to do as res can be disconected at QDC and removed.
See pic below
Shouldnt be too difficult to do as res can be disconected at QDC and removed.
See pic below
Biffa do you mean from the bottom QDC straight to the reservoir/pump? or from the bottom T joint to the reservoir/pump?
If you used a bunch of 90 degree fittings it wouldn't make any difference to the temps.
Do what i did with mine?, or do you think it's fugly?.
I did think of doing it how you have done it but the thought of the pipe sagging down was too much.
Do what i did with mine?, or do you think it's fugly?.
I did think of doing it how you have done it but the thought of the pipe sagging down was too much.
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If you used a bunch of 90 degree fittings it wouldn't make any difference to the temps.
Do what i did with mine?, or do you think it's fugly?.
I did think of doing it how you have done it but the thought of the pipe sagging down was too much.
Looks very clean, i like it.
Thats what i dont like about the top T joint, its sagging quite lot as the t joint and 2 x compressions are heavy.
Are you using a drive bay res and do you think i could get my hose to connect straight from the bottom t joint to the res?
Edit: yep mixed a bit of UV yellow dye in it, makes the yellow much stronger yellow. Doesnt make it UV glow though for some reason!
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Thanks khemist, will give it a go. Cant do no harm having a look.
Man what in the blue moon is that thing!! looks epic. Looks like a fusion reactor!
Did you use boiling water to cold to help bend the tube are is that all natural bend?
Man what in the blue moon is that thing!! looks epic. Looks like a fusion reactor!
Did you use boiling water to cold to help bend the tube are is that all natural bend?
Most of it is the way the tubing is but the bottom one can't be tamed lol!, it's as bent as hell!.
The fact that the t fitting and the two barbs weigh a fair bit helps keep it down.
I dont think you can get bits of tubing that long that will go straight easy.
The fact that the t fitting and the two barbs weigh a fair bit helps keep it down.
I dont think you can get bits of tubing that long that will go straight easy.
Ive got a plan for the bottom tubing to stop it from sagging! Cant tell you though!
Res out, 2 min job. QDCs are a life saver. I got the HF supreme block inlet/ouylets mixed up yesterday and the later on changed the inlet/outlet on the GFX aswell and literally took me 5 mins each.
Res out, 2 min job. QDCs are a life saver. I got the HF supreme block inlet/ouylets mixed up yesterday and the later on changed the inlet/outlet on the GFX aswell and literally took me 5 mins each.
Man again thanks for the pics Khemist, looks so much better this way. Less cluncky looking fittings, no sag and probably better flow. All fitted:-
No just something really simple. From what I’ve seen the bottom long tube sags due to weight, especially mine as have a QDC fitted as well. What i intend on doing is just propping it up at 3 sections along the pipe with Asus rubber motherboard standoff pyramid things that come with asus mobo's. They are self-adhesive and will sit on the fan grills, one on either side of the tubing propping it up in a channel and keeping everything straight. Don’t know if it will work or how it will look but will update when i get there.
No just something really simple. From what I’ve seen the bottom long tube sags due to weight, especially mine as have a QDC fitted as well. What i intend on doing is just propping it up at 3 sections along the pipe with Asus rubber motherboard standoff pyramid things that come with asus mobo's. They are self-adhesive and will sit on the fan grills, one on either side of the tubing propping it up in a channel and keeping everything straight. Don’t know if it will work or how it will look but will update when i get there.