Project: Negative10

I used a metal ruler to cut on and when I found the size a needed… I just cut everyone the same. Pulled it tight to make the cut and tested fitted. But I did have to redo a few that’s was short it’s a pain.
The thing with my build is I wanted every individual cable to follow a certain path, so the outside cables were longer than the inside cables, so each cable took a different path essentially therefore making different length cables.

Already planning the next cable set. This time they'll be extensions because I want to make really short cables from the psu to the component pinouts. This will help with organising the cables and keep it neater looking.
 
Long awaited update! :

My SF750 finally arrived today! No more coil whine from ye old RM650. Once I get settled in my new job (I got the offer today too!) and get my wedding out of the way on Friday, I'll be able to get some new custom cables made up these ones will determine the colour scheme for the build. Really excited to work on this thing again soon, progress was halted due to the psu upgrade taking longer than I'd hoped.

Look at this thing! It's so diddy compared to the old RM650
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Another long gap between updates!

This one comes in the form of 3d printing. It was my birthday recently & I bought myself my first ever 3d printer! This has allowed me to design & print custom parts, making adjustments on the fly & it's great! I've designed & printed components for a bell crank linkage. It's purpose is currently top secret, but once the final print is done and has proven to work, I will definitely upload a post about it as I'm very excited!
Below is just the prototype. After a few tweaks regarding tolerances & sizes of parts, It's 98% done. The most recent iteration has proven to function as intended, my next job is to make the final polishing adjustments, then do the final print. For now, I'll leave you to speculate what this part is for:
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Printed a case for the PSU last night. Little rough but with some cleanup and a nice paint job, it's gonna look great I think!

Gonna make mounting it to the case much easier

What else should I 3D print for this project?
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yup, Wing's correct. You're gonna choke that PSU by covering the exhaust vents. Need to chop out the back.

Love the dimensional accuracy of your print though, very jealous. I need to do so much maintenance to mine. What printer do you have?
Lol yeah don't worry I'm gonna fix that before it gets used
Thanks! I'm so pleased with how it fits so well, it's literally a perfect fit!
I've got the Ender 3 v3 se, what about you?
 
Done some more work on the little secret part of the project tonight & tested it & it works! Just need to refine the design now & get it mounted. The picture below may give a clue as to what it's purpose is...
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Depending on how long or short your 24 pin needs to be and the routing and orientation you need, be aware that the 18+10 into 24 can cause a horrible twist that's not easy to hide. I've had a lot of aggro with my SF600 Platinum before finally sorting it. You also need the sense wires or the PSU won't turn on (he gold versions didn't worry about it), so where you want to put in the 4 double wires is also a consideration. I crimped mine as Y splits about 5cm away from the PSU to keep them out of the way, my entire 24 pin run is only like 20cm so the voltage drop over 16AWG will be negligible anyway.

My printer is an Ender 3 Pro, couple years old now. Absolutely solid beast, never did me wrong really. Need to replace my bed and move to 3-point levelling, but I print using a raft now to even out the warpiness. I have developed minor dimensional inaccuracy on the X dimension but it only shows up in a meaningful way past 150mm or so.
Thanks for the heads up on the 24 pin! What exactly do you mean by the sense wires? My run will be about 30cm or so, still deciding if I want them to run behind the mobo or infront. I could do a v2 of the psu case where it hides the top inch or so of the cables so the Y splits can be hidden in there.

This is my first 3d printer so I'm learning as I go, so far I'm really pleased with it.
 
PSUs have a few double wires on the 24 pin connector to detect voltage droop over the length of the cable and adjust power delivery to ensure the motherboard is getting proper and accurate juice. This is why a lot of modular PSUs have 2 connectors with more pins at the PSU end feeding into the 24 pin that goes ino the motherboard.

Corsair's SF series use 18 pin and a 10 pin connectors which merge into the 24 pin. 27 wires into 23 pins (the -5V rail isn't used, so the wire is removed) means 4 wires are doubled up, and those are the thinner guage sense wires.

For best detection, sense wires are doubled at the 24 pin side so the PSU can see exactly how much juice is flowing into the motherboard's pins, but bear in mind for standard PSUs the 24 pin can be 50cm long so voltage droop because of the length and resistance of the wire can be a thing. In small builds with SFX PSUs, the distances are much shorter so droop because much less of an issue, and in my case effectively a non-issue. But my SF600 requires those sense wires to be present, so I can't just chop them off. I did the join pretty far up the wire so I can hide them.

In fact, have a look at this in my build log:

I've not updated it in a long time because I've been too sick and too poor to do anything, but the 24 pin has actually been finished for a while now (I didn't flip the PSU in the end, I managed to do some nice layering with a 3D printed cable bulkhead tucked behind a solid plate to hide the entire thing).
Oh, I was aware of the number of cables needing to be doubled up, but wasn't aware of the need to use different guage wires for those cables. My current custom cables have one doubled up cable & I used the same guage wire for all wires & not noticed anything wrong with performance?
 
I love these type of build's where it's not all about buying the latest and greatest components, but is a lot more modifying a case or parts to get the end result you want. Great work looking forward to future posts and this progresses.
Thank you I'm looking forward to getting the psu mounted & cables made so I can focus on the other parts again!
One thing I really need to do is position the GPU slightly close to the mobo so it can breath better rather than be pressed against the window.
 
The sense wires don't carry power so they don't need to be as thick as the main wires, that's all. If you feel the double wires on the stock cables you'll see one of the pair is thinner.

I used 20AWG wire for my sense because I barely have enough space to cram the actual power wires in (and I could've saved space by going 18AWG instead of 16AWG), but there's no harm in using the same gauge wire for sense. You could argue it's beneficial because thicker wire has lower resistance and that would only help the accuracy of the sense signal. It'd be so negligible in the real world I wouldn't say "you must use thick wires for sensing" but the theory is there.
Ohh okay, thanks for teaching me something new! Watched a bunch of custom cable tutorials & not one mentioned sense wires lol
 
Update time again!

Recently bought some black PLA filament & I'm learning which settings give best results. I made some improvements on the psu shroud based on feedback from previous posts (gave it some breathing holes at the base) and figured a good way, I hope, to securely mount it to the case.
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Apologies for how poor it's printed, I need to find tune the settings still. Main thing is, it fits and hopefully will function great!
Currently, to hold it in place, I'm using my old psu to sit it on top of

As always, feedback is very welcome
 
Bit of a different update this time. Fancied a move around & switched to a standing setup for health reasons. Whilst this isn't the final setup, it's basically how I'll have it.

After having the live edge wooden shelves for about 5 years, I finally got around the using them :cry:
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